Kakuta Haruo---Decoding Japan---
Wednesday, November 26, 2025
Virtual Kawabe 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #11 Hensho-in Temple
Hensho-in Temple is said to be one of the original 36 sub-temples of Kon’ya-dera or Kon’yo-ji Temple.
Hensho-in Temple is also the #24 member temple of the Nada 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.
Address: 2 Chome-167 Teramoto, Itami, Hyogo 664-0026
Phone: 072-779-8622
Tuesday, November 25, 2025
Virtual Kawabe 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #10 Koya-dera Temple
The origin of Koya-dera Temple dates back to 731, when Gyoki (668-749) built the Koya-ike Pond. He established the Koya Sein, a kind of fuseya, for the purpose of providing relief to the poor. In 733, it became a Buddhist temple at the request of the 45th Emperor Shomu (701-756). 36 sub-temples were founded. Its surrounding area was cultivated and turned into a manor. In 1579, the temple was burned down during the battle between Araki Murashige(1535-1586), who was based in Arioka Castle, and Oda Nobunaga (1534-1582). The temple was later rebuilt, and, in the Edo Period, it had 9 sub-temples.
Address: 2 Chome-169 Teramoto, Itami, Hyogo 664-0026
Phone: 072-781-6015
Arioka Castle Ruins
Address: 1 Chome-12 Itami, Hyogo 664-0846
Phone: 072-784-8090
Monday, November 24, 2025
Virtual Kawabe 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #9 Kannon-ji Temple
It is unknown when Kannon-ji Temple was founded in Koya Village, Muko County, Settsu Province. The village was recorded in the Wamyo Ruijusho, namely Japanese Names for Things Classified and Annotated, which was a Japanese dictionary compiled in 938, and which lists Japanese place names from south to north.
Address: 3 Chome-40 Koya, Itami, Hyogo 664-0881
Phone: 072-781-7007
Sunday, November 23, 2025
Virtual Kawabe 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #8 Anraku-in Temple
Anraku-in Hermitage was first built in 713 as a Buddhist religious site. When Gyoki organized 49 Buddhist temples between 729 and 749 in Yamato, Yamashiro, Settsu, Kawachi, and Izumi Provinces, the hermitage was included in the 49 and became Anrau-in Temple.
The main deity of Anraku-in Temple was found drifting in the sea off Daimotsucho, Amagasaki, Hyogo 660-0823, and is believed to have been made by Visvakarman in India.
The place name Senzo literally means Thousand Monks. Gyoki is believed to have held a Puja, or Buddhist religious ceremony, with a thousand monks in today's Senzo, Itami, Hyogo 664-0898.
Address: 3 Chome-22 Senzo, Itami, Hyogo 664-0898
Phone: 072-777-5353
Virtual Kawabe 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #7 Hatsuon-ji Temple
Hatsuon-ji Temple was founded in 1647. Its Eleven-Faced Ekadasamukha statue is said to have been moved from Toshodai-ji Temple in 1735. The Kawabe 33 Kannon Pilgrimage was organized sometime between 1688 and 1704. Er...
It was recorded that the Muko River flooded in 1712 and 1740. Ina River was recorded to have flooded in 1740. Hatasuon-ji Temple might have been damaged by the 1712 Muko River Flood, or Ina River could have also flooded in 1712 and the flood damaged the temple. Anyway, the temple is located between the 2 rivers, nearer to Ina River.
It is unknown whether the temple’s original Avalokitesvara statue was Ekadasamukha or one of the other 6 types.
Hatsuon-ji Temple also has the Mahakala statue which was moved from Daijo-bo Temple sometime between 1751-1764. The statue seems to have been moved after the 1740 flood.
It is unknown if the temple originally had a Mahakala statue before the flood.
Even recently, on May 6th, 2023, an evacuation order was issued on 4 Chome Kasugaoka, Itami, due to the heavy rain in the surrounding cities.
Address: 4 Chome-7 Kasugaoka, Itami, Hyogo 664-0893
Phone: 072-782-1930
Toshodai-ji Temple
Address: 13-46 Gojocho, Nara, 630-8032
Phone: 0742-33-7900
Daijo-bo Temple
Address: 3 Chome-6-13 Nipponbashi, Naniwa Ward, Osaka, 556-0005
Phone: 06-6643-4078
Saturday, November 22, 2025
Virtual Kawabe 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #6 Jokyu-ji Temple
Jokyu-ji Temple was re-founded by Edoku Domyo (1632-1721) in Shinden-Nakano Village.
Why was it re-founded? In 1631, the Tokugawa Shogunate issued a prohibition on founding new Buddhist temples. Presumably, Priest Edoku made use of a temple registration of an abolished one. It is unknown whether or not the original temple's name was Jokyu-ji and where it was located.
In the early Edo Period (1603-1867), as many masterless and thus jobless samurai became farmers, it was popular to cultivate wastelands and turn into fields to secure food. Shinden-Nakano Village is the only village in Itami that was created through large-scale agricultural development.
Before Shinden-Nakano Village was organized, this area was the land of Koya Village with Koya Shimo Pond, which had been built by Gyoki (668-749), along with Koya Kami Pond (now Konyo Pond). The Koya Shimo Pond was reclaimed by Koya and Ikejiri Villages in 1608. Part of the area that was reclaimed at that time later became rice fields in Shinden-Nakano Village.
In 1629, Asano Magozaemon, Watanabe Shin'emon, and others were accepted after hoping to turn the Shibano Wasteland in the area of Koya Village into fields. Surprised, Koya Village appealed that they should develop the area. However, as Magozaemon and others had applied for years, and, during that time, Koya Village had had no response, Koya Village's appeal was rejected.
Magozaemon and others gathered more than 50 people from all over the province and began developing the following year. The area which was developed at that time were called Sawada (literally Mountain Stream Field) and Nobiraki (Wasteland Development), and were located where the Tennoji River and Tenjin River meet. They not only cultivated land, but also constructed 5 reservoirs, which were named with the name of developers, including Magozaemon Pond.
Ito Sukeyuki opened Jokyu-ji Temple, which is the only branch in Itami City of Obaku-san Manpuku-ji Temple. The Obaku Chan Sect was established by Priest Ingen (1592-1673), who came to Japan from China in 1654. Sukeyuki was a samurai in Amagasaki, Settsu Province, studied the doctrine of Chan Buddhism under Ingen and worshiped it intently. Sukeyuki wished to build a temple in Shinden-Nakano Village. Sukeyuki consulted with Sekitei Doitsu, who asked his master, Mokuan Shoto (1611-1684), for founding an Obaku Chan temple. The foundation of Jokyu-ji Temple was decided in 1682. Sukeyuki began building a temple in the land of Tsutsujihara, Shinden-Nakano Village, and, in 1683, its buidings were erected. Sukeyuki became the first parishioner of the temple.
In 1682, the offspring of Asano Magozaemon, who developed Shinden-Nakano Village, donated land to support Jokyu-ji Temple. In 1686, the Asano Family, who had believed in the Ikko Sect, a small, militant offshoot from the True Pure Land Buddhism, for generations, converted to the Obaku Chan Sect. They added more grounds and built the main hall. This led to the increase of parishioners with the relatives of the Asano Family and those involved in the development of the village.
A little more about water in Shinden-Nakano Village and its 5 ponds:
Asano Magozaemon and others proceeded with cultivation of fields, and also built ponds to store and supply agricultural water. 5 ponds were built in 1629, each with the developer's name: Magozaemon Pond, Sakon'emon Ponds with a large one and a small one, Ichiemon Pond, Yajiemon Pond, and Jiemon Pond.
Irrigation ditches were also built to pour the water from these ponds into the fields. Each field in Shinden-Nakano Village has a corresponding pond from which water should be drawn, and there were rules for how to draw water. For example, in 1753, an arrangement was made between Shinden-Nakano Village and Yasukura Village regarding how to draw water.
In this way, the 5 (later 3) ponds played an important role in the villagers' lives, and the management was carried out jointly by creating water-supply cooperatives in the village.
When problems arose with ponds or water, the leaders of the cooperatives negotiated with one another. When pond repairs and civil engineering work such as dredging the pond were needed, the cooperatives supplied laborers. When they drained the water from Magozaemon Pond, for example, the cooperative of the pond took the fish from the pond and sold them..
Ponds were so important in Nittan Nakano that they needed organizations like water-supply cooperatives, which were deeply involved in their daily lives. As a result, problems have often arisen with the use of the ponds.
Jokyu-ji Temple is also the #25 member temple of the Nada 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.
Address: 2 Chome-11-5 Nakanokita, Itami, Hyogo 664-0029
Phone: 072-777-2922
Friday, November 21, 2025
Virtual Kawabe 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #5 Dairen-ji Temple
Dairen-ji Temple is said to have been founded in 589 by Prince Shotoku (574-622), who had defeated Mononobe Moriya (?-587), who was an opponent of Buddhism, 2 years before. There used to run a river in front of the site, where he took a break. Later, the statue of the prince at the age of 2 was enshrined.
Address: 1 Chome-21-16 Akuraminami, Takarazuka, Hyogo 665-0823
Phone: 0797-81-0554
Thursday, November 20, 2025
Sanuki no Suke’s Diary (8)
As dawn broke, I heard the sound of bells. "Is dawn finally breaking?" I thought, feeling happy. Then, I heard the birdsong. The sounds of morning cleaning made me think, "It's completely dawn now." I thought, "Well, when the usual people wake up, I'll take turns sleeping a little," but then a lady-in-waiting came in, lifted the lattice, and removed the candlesticks. Thinking “I'd take a rest," I put my sleeping robe over my head. The Emperor noticed and pulled it down. "He really doesn't want me to sleep," I thought, and I got up.
Shishi said,
"We'll do our best to look after him during the day. Please get some rest,"
so I left. My maid was waiting for me in my room,
"You should be in good health, so please take care of yourself."
I felt even more unbearable when I heard such words.
As the days went by, the Emperor became increasingly weaker, and I feared that this might be his last time. I hope you can understand my sadness. "How happy he would be if we were able to make him fully recover, just like we did the year before last when he was ill."
Virtual Kawabe 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #4 Jigen-ji Temple
It is unknown when Sen'en-ji Temple was founded in the north of Koya-ike Pond. The temple belonged to Shingon School. As it has the wooden sitting Sakyamuni statue which was made in 1195, during the Kamakura Period (1185-1333), the temple might be as old as the statue or a little bit younger. In the Southern and Northern Courts Period (1336-1392), Akamatsu Norimura (1277-1350) asked the temple to pray for him. As he was based in Harima Province, he might have found some advantage in having connections with a Buddhist temple in Settsu Province, which lay between Harima Province and Kyoto, the then capital of Japan.
Priest Keisho came from Taiko-ji Temple, transferred Sen'en-ji Temple into Caodong Chan Buddhism, and renamed it Sen'en-san Jigen-ji.
In those days, the Itami Family ruled the surrounding area, based in Itami Castle. The family was first documented in 1309, during the Kamakura Period (1185-1333). In the year, Itami Chikamori worked for the Deputy Guardian Samurai of Settsu Province. In 1363, during the Southern and Northern Courts Period (1336-1392), Itami Saemonnojo was documented. On June 4th, 1531, Itami Kunisuke was killed in battle, when Hosokawa Takakuni (1484-1531), the 31st Deputy of Muromachi Shogunate and the 15th head of Kyocho-Hosokawa Family, was destroyed by Hosokawa Harumoto (1514-1563) and Miyoshi Motonaga (1501-1532).
Takakuni replaced Ashikaga Yoshitane (1466-1523), the 10th Shogun of the Muromachi Shogunate, with the son of Ashikaga Yoshizumi (1480-1511), the 8th Shogun, Yoshiharu (1511-1550), the 11th Shogun, in 1521. Takakuni was in his heyday. Lights, however, are usually followed by shadows. In July, 1526, Hosokawa Tadakata (?-1531), Takakuni’s cousin, fabricated the secret communication between Takakuni’s vassal, Kozai Motomori (?-1526), and Hosokawa Harumoto (1514-1563). It wasn’t recorded what intention Tadakata had. Motomori was said to be uncultured and uneducated. Anyway, Takakuni just flew into a fury and had Motomori assassinated. Motomori’s brothers, Hatano Motokiyo (?-1530) and Yanagimoto Kataharu (?-1530), got furious in turn. They rebelled against Takakuni in their homeland, Tamba Province. Motokiyo shut himself up in Yakami Castle and Kataharu in Kannosan Castle. Takakuni was astonished and ordered Tadakata to siege Kannosan Castle. He also dispatched Kawarabayashi Shurinosuke and Ikeda Danjo to Yakami Castle on October 23rd. There were some skirmishes for several days. On November 5th, Naito Kunisada (?-1553), the lord of Yagi Castle,who was sympathetic toward the brothers, withdrew from the encirclement of Kannosan Castle. On November 30th, Akai Goro, the lord of Kuroi Castle, attacked the besiegement of Kannosan Castle and broke it. Takakuni’s army raised the siege of the castles. On their way back, Shurinosuke and Danjo had infighting. Tadataka just ran away. Takakuni’s rule exposed its vulnerability in half a year.
The Miyoshi Family didn’t miss the good opportunity. Miyoshi Masanaga (1508-1549) landed at Sakai and occupied Hori Fortress, which is supposed to have been located where Juso Park is, on an island in the Yodo River as early as on December 13th, as if they had had a secret communication with Motokiyo and Kataharu.
After all the ups downs of himself and the decline of the Muromachi Shogunate, Takakuni went into exile in Iga, Ise, Echizen, Izumo, and Bizen Provinces. Takakuni was supported by Uragami Muramune (1498-1531), who was based in Mitsuishi Castle in Bizen Province. Takakuni and Muramune occupied Harima Province on July 27th, 1530, and seized Itami Castle by the end of February, 1531. They occupied Kyoto on March 7th. They advanced toward Sakai, Izumi Province, where Ashikaga Yoshitsuna (1511-1573), who was called a Sakai Shogun, lived and practiced a little bit of shogunate power. A seesaw battle went on. Akamatsu Harumasa (1495-1565), who was based in Okishio Castle, arrived at Kanno-ji Temple on June 2nd. Harumasa was greeted by Takakuni and Muramune on the night. On the 4th, Harumasa went over to the Sakai Shogunate side. Takakuni and Muramune were attaacked by Harumasa from north and by the Sakai Shogunate army from south.
Itami Kunisuke was killed in the battle. Did he show loyalty to Takakuni? I don't think so. He was caught up in so-called dogfights. Hosokawa Ryoke Ki, the Records of Two Hosokawa Families, which was written by Ikushima Sochiku, and which covers history from 1504 to 1570, writes, "The river is so full of dead people that it looks like a mound. People say that something like this never happens; not in the past, not now, and not in the future." Kunisuke didn't want to miss a chance, became subject to Takakuni, was given Kuni, Takakuni's last half, to the first half of his name, and just thought he jumped on the bandwagon till his last moment.
With his main vassals killed, Takakuni left the battlefield ln the confusion of the defeat. He fled to Amagasaki.
He tried to retreat to Daimotsu Castle, but the Akamatsu forces had already taken hold of it. He fled to an indigo dyeing shop called Kyoya in Amagasaki and hid inside an indigo pot, laying the earthenware pot upside down. He was captured by Miyoshi Kazuhide (?-1532) on June 5th.
Searching for Takakuni in Amagasaki, Kazuhide prepared a lot of melons and told children playing nearby, "If you tell me where Takakuni is hiding, I'll give you all of these melons." The children, eager to get the melons, found Takakuni's hiding place.
At around 4 a.m. on the 8th of the same month, Takakuni committed suicide at Kotoku-ji Temple in Amagasaki at the age of 48. His death tanka poem, which he sent to Kitabatake Harutomo (1503-1563), reads:
The sea and mountains I have depicted in paintings
And that I have carved into stones
I will watch them even after my death with my eyes open.
Meanwhile, the defeated samurai of the Urakami Army were reportedly pursued by the Akamatsu Army as they were fleeing back to Harima Province through Namaseguchi (Namazecho, Nishinomiya, Hyogo 669-1102), and were almost completely wiped out.
For your information, Sochiku finished writing the first half of Hosokawa Ryoke Ki in April, 1550, at the age of 69. The second half was completed in March, 1573, when he should have been 92 years old. The latter half could have been written by someone around him.
Hosokawa Masamoto (1466-1507), who was the 24th, 26th, 27th, and 28th Deputy of Muromachi Shogunate, and who was the 12th head of Kyocho-Hosokawa Family, realized the golden age of the Hosokawa Clan at large. He had the executive power of the shogunate. However, he too devoted himself to Shugendo, the mountain asceticism in Japan, and kept women away from him. His adopted sons eventually conflicted with each other. As the Kyocho-Hosokawa Family split into two, Sochiku named his history book the Records of Two Hosokawa Families.
Anyway, Kunisuke’s cousin, Chikaoki (?-1574), succeeded to the headship of the Itami Family, and killed himself when he surrendered Itami Castle to Araki Murashige (1535-1586), a vassal of Oda Nobunaga (1534-1582), on November 15th, 1574. His son, Tadachika (1552-1600), fought for Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1536-1598) and, after Hideyoshi's death, fought for Kuroda Nagamasa (1568-1623). Tadachika was killed in the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600. Tadachika's daughter, Okiku, was one of the 34 wives of Toyotomi Hidetsugu (1568-1595), the nephew of Hideyoshi. The wives were all killed with their children by Hideyoshi, the wives’ uncle-in-law, and the children’s granduncle, on August 2nd, 1595.
Chikaoki’s cousin, or Kunisuke's son, Masakatsu (1522-1596), survived. After his father’s death, Masakatsu drifted around under the custody of his maternal grandfather, Mano Tokiaki. Presumably, Kunisuke and Chikaoki might not get along well with each other. Through Ise and Kozuke Provinces, they drifted to Suruga Province in 1558. There, he was hired by Imagawa Yoshimoto (1519-1560) to do odd jobs around him. Somehow or other, he stood out as a leader of sea forces.
After the Imagawa Clan was destroyed by Takeda Shingen (1521-1573), Masakatsu transferred to Shingen and helped to organize the Takeda Sea Forces in 1571. After the Tekeda Clan was destroyed by Oda Nobunaga (1534-1582) in 1582, he transferred to Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616), and was appointed to a magistrate of sea forces at Shimizu Port, Suruga Province. He who learns an art has a purchase made.
Under the Tokugawa Shogunate, Masakatsu’s descendants not only survived but also prospered. They made the lords of the Omura Domain in Kyushu.
For your information, Itami Nagachika belonged to the same generation as Chikaoki. He worked for the Later Hojo Clan, and revived Zenrin-ji Temple. After Nagachika’s death, Masatomi was still working for the Later Hojo Clan when it was destroyed by Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598) in 1590. His son was taken care of by his maternal uncle. They became Buddhist monks; Chugo and Chuson. Chugo made the head priest of Senso-ji Temple, whose position Chuson succeeded. After the two, nothing is known about other descendants of Nagachika's line. Not all the Itami Family members knew how to make it in the world, and not all maternal relatives were helpful.
Jigen-ji Temple is also the #26 member temple of the Nada 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, which has almost died out.
The name of the 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, Nada, reminds many Japanese people of Japanese sake breweries in the cities of Kobe and Nishinomiya, Hyogo Prefecture. The pilgrimage could have had something to do with the sake brewing industry. Meanwhile, the place name Nada refers to the area between Muko River in the east and Ikuta River in the west. Why are the (at least) 4 temples in the east of Muko River included in the pilgrimage?
It might have something to do with the history of Nada-Gogo sake breweries.
Sometime between 1624 and 1645, Zakoya Bun'emon moved from Itami to Nishinomiya to start a brewery there. As the Nishinomiya area was closer to the sea, it had the advantage in sending sake to Edo by sea. Accordingly, some other sake breweries followed him. In the other part of the Nada area, many of the present-day sake breweries were established from 1655 to 1736. That was the rise of Nada-Gogo sake breweries. Nada-Gogo, or the Five Villages in Nada, refers to Nishi, Mikage, and Uozaki in Kobe City, and Nishinomiya and Imazu in Nishinomiya City.
Believe it or not, Itami City has the oldest sake brewery wooden buildings in existence. Some even believe the city is the birthplace of refined sake.
What happened to the other 29 member temples of Nada 33 Kannon Pilgrimage? Presumably some of them were destroied and the others lost their histories in the Great Hanshin earthquake in 1995.
If you don't believe my story, why don't you taste sake from all the breweries in Nada and Itami hopefully in a day? At least (At worst?), you will never mind whether my story is true or not by the time you have compared hundreds of items from the 27 or more Japanese sake breweries.
Address: 6 Chome-19-59 Konoike, Itami, Hyogo 664-0006
Phone: 072-779-8651
Yakami Castle Ruins
Address: Takagiyama, Yakamiuchi, Tamba-Sasayama, Hyogo 669-2432
Phone: 079-552-5792
Handa-Kannonsan Castle Ruins
Address: Wadayamacho Handa, Asago, Hyogo 669-5241
Yagi Castle Ruins
Address: Yagicho Yagi, Nantan, Kyoto 629-0141
Kuroi Castle Ruins
Address: 4125 669 Kasugacho Tada, Tamba, Hyogo 669-4125
Juso Park
Address: 1 Chome-1 Jusomotoimazato, Yodogawa Ward, Osaka, 532-0028
Mitsuishi Castle Ruins
Address: Mitsuishi, Bizen, Okayama 705-0132
Okishio Castle Ruins
Address: Yumesakicho Miyaoki, Himeji, Hyogo 671-2121
Kanno-ji Temple
Address: 25-1 Kabutoyamacho, Nishinomiya, Hyogo 662-0001
Phone: 0798-72-1172
Daimotsu Castle Site
Address: 2-chome-7-6 Daimotsucho, Amagasaki, Hyogo 660-0823
Kyoya
Address: 2-chome-1-2 Minamitsukaguchicho, Amagasaki, Hyogo 661-0012
Phone: 06-6429-1318
Kotoku-ji Temple
Address: 8 Teramachi, Amagasaki, Hyogo 660-0867
Phone: 06-6411-2424
Taiko-ji Temple
Address: 2 Chome-5-16 Ayaha, Ikeda, Osaka 563-0051
Phone: 072-751-3433
Arioka Castle Ruins
Address: 1 Chome-12 Itami, Hyogo 664-0846
Phone: 072-784-8090
Zenrin-ji Temple
Address: 6 Chome-40-32 Kamariyahigashi, Kanesawa Ward, Yokohama, Kanagawa 236-0042
Phone: 045-781-9814

