Kakuta Haruo---Decoding Japan---

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Location: Sakai, Osaka, Japan

Thursday, May 28, 2026

Trees In the Town

 


Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Days of Imperial Mourning (10)

 

     Since the memorial services for the first anniversary of the late Emperor’s passing were completed, the national mourning period officially came to an end on the twenty-fifth day. All the courtiers shed their somber mourning garments. For the past year, the Emperor's residence had been shrouded with plain, unadorned blinds and screens, but these were now entirely removed. The curtains in the night chambers, which had been absent for months, were re-erected just as before. The entire palace was restored to its former state—magnificent, radiant, and without a single trace of change.

     The Regent, along with the other courtiers and chamberlains, changed into their formal court attire, letting the long tassels of their crowns hang down. The ladies-in-waiting, each eager to outshine the other in beauty, lined up like celestial beings in a vibrant palette of colors. It was a stark contrast to the bleak months gone by, filling the air with a fresh, celebratory renewal. Their hairpins and ties, strictly white during the mourning period, were now being prepared in the customary dark purple.

     The Regent entered the palace properly dressed in his ceremonial attire and summoned me, saying, "Come immediately." When I arrived, he was helping the new Emperor dress himself. The Emperor was dressed so beautifully, in a fine, exquisite robe. However, as I adjusted the hem of the robe, I was immediately reminded of the late Emperor. I remembered so vividly how he would appear each day to pay his respects at the lime altar, dressed in that exact manner.

     "The officials have arrived. It must be time," the Regent said, urging the Emperor to hurry. But I could not possibly attend the ceremony without changing out of my own mourning clothes, so I withdrew. Yet, even after returning to my chambers, I did not feel like changing immediately.

     “Should I really take off these mourning clothes?” I thought. “I have considered them my only physical memento of the late Emperor. It would be truly heartbreaking to take them off. Everyone in the country—both those who were sincere towards the Emperor and those who were not—wore mourning. For those of us who served him so closely to cast them aside at the exact same moment as everyone else… it would be wrong.” I felt deeply reluctant to change. However, as it was the unyielding custom of the court, I reluctantly took them off.

Yoshimine Munesada (816–890) became a monk and lived in seclusion after the death of Emperor Ninmyo (810–850). He composed the following poem when people shed their mourning clothes the following year:

While all the world casts off their robes of woe,

And changes into garments of splendid hue,

I am bound to this monk’s attire, unable to let it go—

If only these endless tears would dry up, too.


Trees In the Town

 


Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #14 Shinzen-ji Temple

 

     It is unknown when Shinzen-ji Temple was founded in Bessho Village, Innami County, Harima Province, but its precincts have Amida Sekkanbutsu (the Amida Stone Coffin Statue), which was carved in 1265, in front of the temple's living quarter.

     Amida Stone Coffin Statues are unique Buddhist icons with Amitabha figures carved directly into the lids of stone coffins from the Kofun period. Most were crafted between the 12th and 16th centuries, with a particularly high concentration in Harima Province. The statues depict Amitabha in both standing and seated poses, often featuring the meditation mudra (Jo-in) held before the torso.

     The primary material used was Tatsuyama stone (a type of hyaloclastite), prized for its paradoxically ideal qualities: it is soft enough for intricate carving yet strong, durable, and exceptionally fire-resistant.

     Throughout Japanese history, Tatsuyama stone has been a material of prestige. Between the 5th and 7th centuries, it was used for the sarcophagi of elite burial mounds, including the massive Daisen-ryo Kofun (Tomb of Emperor Nintoku). In the Nara period, it formed the foundations of the Heijo and Kuni Palaces and the pedestal of the Asuka-dera Great Buddha. Its use continued through the centuries, from the stone walls of Himeji Castle to modern landmarks like the National Diet Building and the Imperial Palace Fukiage Garden.

     While the choice of such high-quality stone is logical, the motive for using actual coffin lids remains a fascinating mystery:

     Convenience? Was it simply a matter of repurposing readily available, pre-cut high-quality stone?

     Ancestral Piety? Were medieval locals the descendants of those buried in the mounds, seeking to offer Buddhist prayers for the repose of their ancestors' souls?

     Dominance? Or were they the conquerors of the previous dynasty’s descendants, finding a sense of superiority in carving their new faith onto the monuments of the fallen?


Address: Kitajuku-255 Besshocho, Himeji, Hyogo 671-0223

Phone: 079-252-0227


Tatsuyama Stone Quarry Site

Address: 18 Tatsuyama, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0811

Phone: 079-448-8255


Daisen-ryo Kofun (Tomb of Emperor Nintoku)

Address: 1079-1 Daisencho, Sakai Ward, Sakai, Osaka 590-0035

Phone: 072-955-1115


Heijo Palace Site Historical Park

Address: 3 Chome-5-1 Nijoojiminami, Nara, 630-8012

Phone: 0742-36-8780


Site of Kunikyo (Ancient Capital)

Address: Mizogaito Kamocho Reihei, Kizugawa, Kyoto 619-1106

Phone: 075-414-5903


Asuka-dera Temple

Address: 682 Asuka, Takaichi District, Nara 634-0103


Himeji Castle

Address: 68 Honmachi, Himeji, Hyogo 670-0012

Phone: 079-285-1146


Fukiage Omiya Palace

Address: 1-1 Chiyoda, Chiyoda City, Tokyo 100-0001

Phone: 03-3213-1111


National Diet Building

Address: 1-chome-7 Nagatacho, Chiyoda City, Tokyo 100-0014


Sumitomo Building

Address: 4 Chome-5-33 Kitahama, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 541-0041


Okaya Koki Nagoya Public Hall

Address: 1 Chome-1-3 Tsurumai, Showa Ward, Nagoya, Aichi 466-0064

Phone: 052-731-7191


Wednesday, May 27, 2026

Trees In the Town

 


Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Days of Imperial Mourning (9)

 

     Finally, July arrived. Everyone was in deep sorrow and hustle, as it was the first anniversary of his passing. On the day of the service, just like the forty-ninth-day memorial last year, there were one hundred accompanying monks. Since the details of the service were the same as before, I shall omit them here.

     Since that time last year, six ladies-in-waiting had remained at the Horikawa-in Residence, serving Her Majesty [the late Emperor's Empress] here.

     "It is truly heartbreaking that we must finally leave. Because we have served here in this way, with the start of each new month, we have been counting down the days until the nineteenth, eagerly awaiting your visits for the monthly memorials. Knowing that it is all over now makes this moment truly painful,"

the six of them said to each other, weeping uncontrollably. After they had wept their hearts out, my sister, Kenshi, rose and left.

     The next day, a lady-in-waiting named Izumo, one of the six, composed this tanka poem and tied it to the pampas grass in the northern courtyard:

Now, as we part ways

With the end of this autumn evening,

Not only are my sleeves wet with tears,

But the plumes of pampas grass are also damp with dew.

     Even just hearing of her gesture—of her phrasing her grief and tying it to the pampas grass—fills me with profound sadness.


Trees In the Town

 


Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #13 An'yo-ji Temple

 

     An'yo-ji Temple was founded in 737, when the 735–737 Japanese smallpox epidemic broke out, by Imperial decree of Emperor Obito (701-756).  Its main deity is the statue of Amitabha, which is said to have been carved by Gyoki (668-749) from a sacred tree on Mount Tiantai in China.  That is why the temple's sango is Seirai-zan.  Seirai means Western Origin.  Its jigo is from "May all sentient beings attain Buddhahood and be guided to the Pure Land of An'yo (to calm minds and to support bodies)."

      In 1322, Akamatsu Norimura (1277-1350), Kodera Yorisue, and Oshio Norikage volunteered to invite Priest Chikuo, a disciple of Priest Eisai (1141-1215), who founded Kennin-ji Temple in Kyoto, to be their Chan master.

     In 1441, when Akamatsu Mitsusuke (1381-1441) killed the reigning Ashikaga shogunate, Ashikaga Yoshinori (1394-1441), and the Kakitsu incident broke out, the temple was completely destroyed by fire.

     In 1467, Akamatsu Masanori (1455-1496) admired Priest Enko and appointed him as the head priest.  He donated land, and constructed more than 17 temple buildings.

     In 1577, when Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1536-1598) attacked Gochaku Castle, the temple buildings were all destroyed by fire.  The main deity, the Amitabuha statue, escaped the flames, and Priest Gyozan built a hermitage to enshrine it.

     In 1600, the temple was revived by Arao Takashige, who was a senior retainer of Ikeda Terumasa (1565-1613), the 1st lord of the Himeji Domain.  A five-ringed stone pagoda was erected, and one of Terumasa's teeth was enshrined within.

     In 1619, ​​Priest Senkaku transferred the temple to the Caodong Chan Sect.

     In September, 1821, it became the 13th member temple of the Inami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.

     A few say that the Bessho Family, who were based in Miki Castle, was from today's Besshocho Bessho, Himeji, Hyogo 671-0221.


Address: 649 Besshocho Bessho, Himeji, Hyogo 671-0221

Phone: 079-253-5015


Gochaku Castle Site Park

Address: Mikuninocho, Himeji, Hyogo 671-0232


Bessho Residence Site

Address: Besshocho Bessho, Himeji, Hyogo 671-0221


Tuesday, May 26, 2026

Trees In the Town

 


Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Days of Imperial Mourning (8)

 

     By the sixth month, the height of summer had arrived. Around this time last year, the late Emperor was still in excellent health and high spirits. Remembering that people had expressed a desire to see the spring at the Horikawa mansion, he had—for some reason—sent a messenger to me, insisting that I should go.

     "Since it is His Majesty’s wish, I shall go tomorrow," I replied, and I set out ahead of the others to wait for them. The rest of the company arrived in two carriages, spent the entire day by the spring, and then prepared to return. Seeing them depart, I thought to myself, “I shall stay here tonight and rest in comfort,” and so I remained behind. However, a lady-in-waiting named Hitachi-dono urged me otherwise:

     "Oh, no, you mustn't! You must return to the palace. His Majesty said he wants everyone to play the fan-lottery game. He has already prepared various fans and is waiting for you."

     Thus, I returned with them.

     The Emperor had been waiting for his ladies-in-waiting, and after personally inquiring about what they had done at the spring, he suggested, "Shall we hold the fan-drawing game tonight?"

     I replied, "I am so impatient for the morning to come that I’d love to start tonight! But it would be a pity to play in the dark, since we wouldn't be able to see everyone's expressions clearly."

     The next morning, as soon as dawn broke, he commenced the game, summoning everyone to their seats. Although the ladies, including Fujiwara Ieko, were already seated, the Emperor directed his words to me: "Draw a fan first." When I drew, I completely missed the beautiful fan I had been hoping for, and instead pulled one of the poorest quality. Disappointed, I carelessly threw it down right in front of him.

     He laughed and chided, "How rude!"

     A lady-in-waiting named Tajima-dono chimed in, "That is exactly how a favored servant behaves. No one else would ever dare do such a thing."

     They all teased me, but at the time, I thought nothing of it. Now, however, I look back on my insolence with deep regret, wondering, “Why on earth did I behave that way in his presence?” Yet, it only makes me feel all the more grateful today for his immense generosity and indulgence.


Trees In the Town

 


Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #12 Busshin-ji Temple

 

     It is unknown when Busshin-ji Temple was founded in Kobayashi Village, Innami County, Harima Province.  Its precincts have Gorinto, or five-ringed tower, which is a Japanese type of Buddhist pagoda.  Judging from its style, the pagoda is believed to have been erected in the Kamakura Period (1185-1333).  If so, the temple could be as old as the pagoda.  Then, Kobayashi Village didn't exist yet, and the village was first listed in the Keicho Kuni-ezu, the map published in 1611.

     What is the Keicho Kuni-ezu (Provincial Maps of the Keicho Era)?

     Following the precedent set by the Toyotomi administration, Tokugawa Ieyasu—the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate—ordered a nationwide land survey in September 1605. This ambitious project aimed to map the distribution of territories and assess the rice yields (kokudaka) of feudal lords (daimyo), temples, and shrines across Japan. To oversee this, Ieyasu appointed Nishio Yoshitsugu as the magistrate for the Eastern Provinces and Tsuda Hidemasa for the Western Provinces.

     The resulting Keicho Kuni-ezu (Provincial Maps) and Gocho (Village Registers) are believed to have been compiled based on this extensive survey. Unfortunately, it is widely thought that the original documents were lost in fires at Edo Castle; consequently, no original copies survive today. The only remaining duplicates cover just 11 provinces and one island, all of which are notably concentrated in Western Japan.

     Because of this geographical bias, some historians argue that the project may not have been a truly national endeavor. Instead, they suggest it may have been a targeted policy limited to the Western Provinces—a form of administrative pressure designed to monitor and control the "outsider" (tozama) daimyo who remained a potential threat to the fledgling Tokugawa Shogunate.

     As Busshin-ji Temple and Tenman Shrine are located near an irrigation reservoir, they had something with the development of Kobayashi Village.

     It is supposed that Betsunosho was located in the area.  Betsunosho was a household administrative office of court officials and nobles, and is believed to have been a place where other taxes than rice of the feudal lords were managed.  The Iho Manor, which was developed in the latter half of Heian Period (794-1185), could have been extended northwest in the Kamakura Period.


Address: Kobayashi-278 Besshocho, Himeji, Hyogo 671-0222


Monday, May 25, 2026

Trees In the Town

 


Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Days of Imperial Mourning (7)

 

     On the fourth day of May, as evening fell, I saw people preparing to cover the eaves with sweet flags to gently purify the air. Last year on this day—when I had no such sorrows—they brought bundles of sweet flags into the courtyard facing the Imperial Breakfast Room. People climbed onto the roof of each building, filling them completely with the plants. It seemed as if all the sweet flags of Mizuno—the wetland where the Katsura, Uji, and Kizu Rivers meet—would be used up.

     The next day, too, the early summer rain fell from the sky, and the sweet flags on the eaves were dripping continuously.

The sweet flags on the eaves

Are drenched in early summer rain,

While my sleeves are soaked with endless sorrow,

Beneath the gloomy summer sky.

     That was all I could think of.

     More than ten days passed, and I recalled that around this time the previous year, the five-day lectures on the Golden Light Sutra had been held. I remembered how, about ten days after those lectures had ended, the late Emperor shared with me his deep admiration for the lectures.


Trees In the Town

 


Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #11 Myosen-ji Temple

 

     It is unknown when Myosen-ji Temple was founded in Ushitani Village, Innami County, Harima Province.  The village was first documented in 1588, when the Iho Manor handed in their self-assessment to the Toyotomi Regime.  The Iho Manor was first documented in 1305.  As the temple belongs to Caodong Chan School, it might have been founded after the school's introduction to Japan in the 13th century.

     The Iho Manor is supposed to have been located somewhere around today's Ihocho, Nakasuji,Takasago, Hyogo 676-0081, and Sonecho, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0082.

     Myosen-ji Temple is located at the eastern foot of the medieval fortress, Oshioyama Fortress.  Opposite the fortress, there is another hill across Ten River.  The hill has an ancient tumulus, Kyozukayama Tumulus.

     Kyozukayama Tumulus is located at the tip of a ridge extending from north to south in Takasago City.  It is about 83 meters above sea level.  It is a keyhole-shaped tumulus with a length of 23.6 meters.  The shape is one of the few in the Harima Region.  The rear section forms a 14.1-meter square.  The main burial chamber was excavated in 1929, and surveys of the tumulus and main burial chamber were conducted in 1980 and 1981.  A row of revetment stones remains on part of the base of the tumulus, revealing the planned shape and size of the tumulus.

     It is unknown whether or not the the head of the local powerful family who was buried under Kyozukayama Tumulus and the Oshio Family, who were the lords of Oshioyama Fortress were related by blood.  However, the valley between the tumulus and the fortress should have been a strategic point both economically and militarily from ancient times through medieval days, until the Oshio Family was destroyed in the Siege of Miki Castle from 1578 to 1580.


Address: 595 Kitahamacho, Takasago, Hyogo 671-0121

Phone: 079-447-2439


Kyozukayama Tumulus

Address: Amida Amidacho, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0827


Sunday, May 24, 2026

Trees In the Town

 


Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Days of Imperial Mourning (6)

 

     I went to the Imperial Palace at the end of the month.

     Even during the changing of clothes on April 1st, the lower-ranking court ladies, as usual, were frivolously making a fuss, stripping the curtains from the screens without a care in the world. Everyone was watching the spectacle, but I had no desire to look. I could only remember how the late Emperor had found such sights amusing.

     When the day of the Buddha's bathing arrived, the ladies-in-waiting all began to take out their offerings. As the ceremony began, the blinds in front of the midday chamber were lowered, and the ladies-in-waiting came out to the side to watch. The Regent and other court nobles were lined up on the railing of the wide veranda, their undergarments draped over them as per the customary procedure. The leading priest explained the purpose of the ceremony and poured water over the Buddha statue. The mountain-shaped decoration (Yamagata) and the five-colored water were just as they had always been. After the leading priest finished pouring the water, the Regent came and poured it, and then, in order, the other courtiers followed one after another. Nothing had changed.

     Minamoto Masatoshi and his brother, Kunizane, who were the uncles of the former Emperor, approached to pour the water, but they seemed to remember past days, looking utterly unable to bear it. Their expressions were visibly distinct from the others; they cut deeply forlorn figures. I, too, could not hold back my tears, and thinking, "I will never again look outside in the usual way," I pulled the curtain closer to hide myself.

     Suddenly, I saw the young Emperor wanting to look outside from above the curtain. He was too short, so I lifted him up in my arms to let him see; it was deeply moving. The late Emperor, being a grown man, would wear his formal court robe and stand majestically before the curtain, chanting prayers. As I thought about it, his image flashed before my eyes, and I was overcome by a sorrow no less profound than that of the Minamoto brothers. Feeling intensely self-conscious under the gaze of those around me, I withdrew from His Majesty's presence before the ceremony was even over.

Trees In the Town

 


Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #10 Seisho-ji Temple

 

     In 901, when Sugawara Michizane (845-903) was exiled and on his way to Dazaifu, his lady-in-waiting died suddenly.  He built a hermitage to pray for the comfort of her in the other world.  It is said that the area faced the sea at the time.  By the way, why did Michizane and his followers stay in the area where Seisho-ji Temple is located today?  Had the prehistoric port at the foot of Minato Shrine already stopped functioning as a port?  If so, which port did Gyoki (668-749) maintain?  Did he improve the prehistoric port, or did he install the one Michizane used?

     In 1394, Ashikaga Yoshimochi (1386-1428) became the 4th Shogun of Muromachi Shogunate.  His vassal became a Buddhist monk for some reason.  In 1395, the monk founded Seisho-ji Temple at the site of the hermitage Michizane had built.  Why did the monk become reclusive?

     In 1394, the concubines of Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (1358-1408), the 3rd Shogun, gave birth to his 4th and 5th sons, Yoshitsugu (1394-1418) and Yoshinori (1394-1441).  Yoshitsugu was later killed by Ashikaga Yoshimochi (1386-1428).  Ashikaga Yoshikazu (1407-1425), the 5th Shogun, and Yoshimochi died of a disease one after another, and the shogunate became vacant.  Chief vassals assembled at Iwashimizu-Hachiman-gu Shrine and decided the next shogun by lot on January 17, 1428.  And Yoshinori became the 6th Shogun and assassinated his political opponents one after another.

     The monk might have foreseen the dark clouds.


Address: 1089 Oshiocho, Himeji, Hyogo 671-0101

Phone: 079-254-0133


Trees In the Town

 


Taira Tadamori (1096–1153): The Rise of Japan’s Second Pirate King

 

Introduction and the Lessons of Echizen

     In 1114, Taira Tadamori was appointed as a provincial officer in Echizen Province. Its major port, Tsuruga, was a bustling hub for Song Dynasty Chinese traders. During his tenure, a murder case involving a Hie Shrine priest escalated into a violent, direct petition to the Imperial Court by the powerful monks of Enryaku-ji Temple. Underlying this conflict was a fierce clash of interests over continental trade. Through this experience, Tadamori learned firsthand the immense profits that could be raked in through foreign commerce.


The "Easy Suppression" in the Seto Inland Sea

     By the late 1120s and 1130s, the Seto Inland Sea had become a critical trade route. In March 1129, the office of Cloistered Emperor Shirakawa issued an urgent decree ordering Tadamori to hunt down and kill the "savage bandits" allegedly rampant along the sea lanes. Curiously, contemporary records show no evidence of such large-scale piracy.

     Nevertheless, Tadamori used this mandate to bring the Nomi-no-umi area under his control, renaming it "Tada-no-umi" (Tada Sea) using the first character of his name. He also established Mori Port on nearby O-Mishima Island—home to O-Yamazumi Shrine, the most powerful sanctuary for local seafaring people.

     On April 8, 1135, Tadamori was officially appointed as the commander to subdue these pirates. By August, he returned to Kyoto in triumph with 70 captives. However, on August 19, rumors were documented that he had merely brought his own followers to Kyoto, as no major executions took place. Rather than launching a bloody suppression, Tadamori had used the Cloistered Emperor’s authority to co-opt and organize the local sea people.

     Centuries later during the Warring States Period, these same sea families would carry the "Nomi" brand name, eventually evolving into the Nomi/Ura family and forging alliances with the formidable Murakami Pirates.


Geopolitics and the Pirates of Kyushu

     Meanwhile, the 12th-century trade between Japan and China reached a major turning point. Following the Jingling Incident of 1126, the Jurchen tribes conquered northern China, forcing the Song Dynasty to flee south. The resulting Southern Song society faced massive displacement and epidemics. This triggered a boom in maritime trade: China urgently imported timber from Japanese provinces like Suo to rebuild its cities, while exporting advanced medical knowledge and goods back to Japan.

     This booming commerce fueled piracy in Japan’s Western Sea (Kyushu), led by powerful local families. Under the guise of sacred purveyors or priests, these groups mixed legal tax-rice transportation with illegal smuggling, looting, and homicide.

     When the Imperial Court debated whether to send the violent Minamoto Tameyoshi or the politically savvy Taira Tadamori to handle the Kyushu crisis, they chose Tadamori. Once again, Tadamori achieved a swift, suspiciously bloodless triumph, returning to Kyoto in August 1135 with the Zen priest Hidaka and 80 others. Just as in the Seto Inland Sea, rumors swirled that these "pirates" were either framed or were actually local maritime factions newly organized under Tadamori’s banner.


Conclusion: A New Kind of Pirate King

     Japan’s first pirate king, Fujiwara Sumitomo (?—941), had challenged the state by robbing provincial governments of tax rice and plundering imported goods at Dazaifu. Tadamori took a fundamentally different approach. Instead of outright robbery, he contracted with the court to safely transport taxes to Kyoto. Instead of plundering foreign goods, he established highly lucrative, illegal trade channels that were tolerated and condoned by the central government. By transforming independent sea factions into a unified maritime network, Taira Tadamori legitimately earned his legacy as Japan's second, and far more sophisticated, Pirate King.


Saturday, May 23, 2026

Trees In the Town

 


Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Days of Imperial Mourning (5)

 

     The days of Imperial mourning entered March. I attended the monthly memorial service as usual. The cherry blossoms at the Horikawa-in Residence were in full, magnificent bloom. It reminded me of the poem composed by Hata no Kanekata upon the death of Emperor Go-Sanjo (1034–1073):

The cherry blossoms bloom

in the exact same color as before.

It seems it is only the flowers

that are free from the sorrows of this world.

     And indeed, the blossoms appeared exactly as they always had, untouched by our grief.

     The Seiryoden, which had been the late Emperor's everyday residence during his lifetime, had now been converted into a Buddhist temple. Until July, Buddhist services for the evening and dawn were to be held continuously at fixed times. The quarters for the twenty chamberlains and the station for the guardsmen had all been turned into monks' quarters.

     Seeing how desolate the former Imperial Palace had become, I realized how true the poem by the former Empress Dowager, Fujiwara Shoshi (988–1074), was. When she had visited the former residence of her deceased husband, Emperor Ichijo (980–1011), and found it so quiet and lonely, she had composed this poem:

Who could have called

this throne a jeweled seat,

where now not even

the Emperor's shadow remains?

     It felt as though her words perfectly described the scene before my eyes.

     Meanwhile, the late Emperor Horikawa’s Empress Dowager was holding a series of thirty lectures, during which one chapter of the Lotus Sutra was expounded each day. I accompanied my older sister, Kenshi, who had served as the late Emperor's wet nurse, to listen to one of these lectures.

     After the sermon concluded, the Empress Dowager summoned Kenshi to her side, and my sister went to attend to her. Her lady-in-waiting, Saisho, remarked, "Kenshi, please come closer. As for Nagako, it must feel so awkward for her to be here at a time like this..."

     Overhearing this, the Empress Dowager quickly interceded, saying, "Nagako is a truly sincere and devoted person. She can have no reason to feel comfortable in this place, which has now lost its former glory, yet she has kept me in her thoughts and made an appearance anyway."

     She could not finish her sentence, her voice choking with tears. I, too, could no longer hold back my own.

     Since it was getting dark, I took my leave.


Trees In the Town

 


Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #9 Seigan-ji Temple

 

     It is unknown when Seigan-ji Temple was founded in Nishihama Kitahamacho, Takasago, Hyogo 671-0123.  Seigan means West Coast and Nishihama means West Beach.  The temple faced east, and sea waves could have washed in front of the temple gate when it was founded.


Address: Nishihama-1118 Kitahamacho, Takasago, Hyogo 671-0123

Phone: 079-254-0407


Friday, May 22, 2026

Trees In the Town

 


Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Days of Imperial Mourning (4)

 

     In February, the nineteenth day arrived—marking not only the monthly anniversary of the late Emperor’s passing but now also the anniversary of that lady's death. As I listened to the priest’s sermon and looked at the sliding door, I was vividly reminded of her.

     Last year, during the New Year's celebrations, while I was attending the New Year's services at the Imperial Palace, she had sent someone from her place of retirement to summon her juniors.

     "It is a charming and peaceful place, so please come with us," I was invited by an elder Lady-in-Waiting and another companion. Upon hearing that the retired lady was just beyond the sliding door of her residence, the Lady-in-Waiting called out, "So you are here. I have brought my colleagues with me."

     "Ah, let me meet Nagako! What a joy!" she had replied, and so we met.

     On that night, she had said to me:

     "I understand you have been exceptionally kind and devoted in taking care of my junior, yet I have never been able to properly express my gratitude. Now that I am retired and see how advanced in age my hair has become, I cannot even bring myself to visit her family’s residence. Besides, I no longer look my best even with makeup. I have been wishing to fulfill my desire to become a nun and abandon the world within this month. This thought had become my sole obsession, but tonight, my prayers to the Buddha seem to have been answered by this meeting. I am truly happy. My heart is now at peace, and when I attain enlightenment, I am sure my afterlife will be tranquil as well."

     Remembering these words, the first thing that came back to me was how deeply considerate and thoughtful she had been—and now she, too, is gone.

     And thus, the second month passed away in deepening sorrow.


Trees In the Town

 


Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #8 Rendai-ji Temple

 

     In legendary times, Okinagatarashi (170?-269?), a legendary empress, was said to have made a military expedition to Silla in the Korean Peninsula.  A historical record of the Three Kingdoms of Korea (Goguryeo, Baekje, and Silla) recorded 14 organized piracies by Wa, the Japanese kingdom, by the end of the 4th century, and Okinagatarashi’s expedition to Silla might have been one of those piracies.  On her way, Okinagatarashi is believed to have stopped at where Minato Shrine is located.

     In those days, an isle was in the sea off the coast.  It is unknown when Hachiman Shrine was invited to the islet.  The isle could have been already a hill when the shrine was invited.  It is unknown when the Matogata area was reclaimed from the sea, but Matogata Manor was first documented in 1337.  The shrine also functions as a temporary shrine of Minato Shrine.

It is unknown when Rendai-ji Temple was founded as a shrine temple of Hachiman Shrine.  It should have been abolished after the Meiji Restoration Government issued the Gods and Buddhas Separation Order in 1868.


Hachiman Shrine

Address: Matogata 1312, Matogatacho, Himeji, Hyogo 671-0111


Minato Shrine

Address: Matogata-1249 Matogatacho, Himeji, Hyogo 671-0111

Phone: 079-254-0613