The Three Kannon Pilgrimages in Kako District

I have virtually walked up all the 3 pilgrimages in Kako District: the Kako County Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, the Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, and the Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.  Looking back at them, I realize that they are composed of 4 types of tiers of temples and halls and that the distribution of the 4 tiers among the 3 pilgrimages are significantly different.  What the differences imply is waiting to be analyzed.

Contextual Explanation of the Tiers (for reference or inclusion):

Tier 1 (Ancient Origins): Temples belonging to sects founded in the ancient period, such as Shingon and Tendai Buddhism, which historically served as longstanding regional bases and prayer temples.

Tier 2 (Medieval Origins): Zen temples (such as Rinzai and Soto) established in the medieval period under the patronage of the warrior class (bushi) and local lords.

Tier 3 (Early Modern / Edo Period Origins): Sects like Pure Land (Jodo-shu) that flourished in the early modern period, strongly backed by the status of Pure Land Buddhism as the faith of the Tokugawa shogunal family.

Tier 4 (Unaccredited Chapels / Shodo): Local roadside or village chapels lacking official temple status and state/domain recognition from the Edo period, making their management and preservation inherently fragile.

Kako County Saigoku 33 Pilgrimage

Composed mostly (~90%) of established, officially recognized temples spanning the ancient, medieval, and early modern periods (Tiers 1–3). Thanks to this solid institutional foundation, the route has been stably maintained up to the present day.

Kako County Bando 33 Pilgrimage

Failed to secure sufficient participation from established temples (Tiers 1–3) and relied too heavily on unaccredited local chapels (Tier 4). Lacking a firm organizational base, it proved unable to withstand the rapid modernization of the Taisho era and vanished within a few decades.

Kako County Chichibu 33 Pilgrimage

Anchored primarily by medieval Zen temples (Tier 2) but also incorporating smaller, unaccredited chapels (shodo, Tier 4). This mixed makeup resulted in a moderate level of survival over time.

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #33 Koon-ji Temple

 

     Tradition holds that Koon-ji Temple was founded by the legendary Hermit Hodo during the Hakuchi era (650–655).

     This period coincided with a major geopolitical realignment across East Asia, which ultimately culminated in Silla’s unification of the Korean Peninsula in 676. In 642, King Uija (599–660) of Baekje invaded Silla, capturing over 40 fortresses and killing the daughter and son-in-law of Kim Chun-chu (603–661), the future King of Silla. Domestically, King Uija established an autocratic regime, purging political opponents to solidify his grip on power. This rapid concentration of authority echoed across the region: Yeon Gaesomun (d. 666) seized power in a coup in Goguryeo, while in Japan, Soga Emishi (586–645) and his son Iruka (?-645) tightened their control following the death of Emperor Jomei (593–641) and the ascension of Empress Kogyoku (594–661).

     Just as Sakanoue Tamuramaro (758–811) was later invoked as the symbolic founder of various temples in the Tohoku region, "Hermit Hodo" served a distinct historiographical purpose in Eastern Harima. During the mid-7th century, high-ranking Baekje nobles fleeing King Uija’s purges likely sought refuge in the Japanese archipelago, with some settling in Eastern Harima. For these immigrant communities, Hodo, a legendary monk said to have traveled from India through Tang China and Baekje, provided an ideal origin figure. Attributing their local sites to him allowed these communities to link their temples to a prestigious continental Buddhist lineage. (Hodo, whose original Sanskrit name is reconstructed as Dharmapatha, may have been known as Puap-dauh in China, Papp-do in Korea, and Papotau or Fafatau upon his arrival in Japan.)

     Koon-ji Temple was revived by Priest Nyorin in 1355, at which time a hall from nearby Houn-ji Temple was reportedly relocated and integrated into the complex. In 1380, Akamatsu Yoshinori (1358-1427) donated land to the temple, initiating an era of great prosperity in which as many as 32 sub-temples lined the grounds. Although these structures were burned down during the Siege of Miki in 1578, the temple was subsequently rebuilt.

     Today, Koon-ji serves as the 24th station on the Harima Province 33 Kannon Pilgrimage and the final 33rd station on the Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. Minor regional pilgrimages often placed prominent, established temples at the end of their routes, a deliberate strategy designed to boost overall pilgrim participation.

Address: 851 Nodera, Inami, Kako District, Hyogo 675-1104

Phone: 079-495-0027

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #32 Shomyo-ji Temple

 

     Legend has it that Saiko-ji Temple was founded by Prince Shotoku (547-622).  During the Kamakura Period (1185-1333), Kasuya Arinori, the lord of Gannan Manor, today's western Kakogawa City, built Kakogawa Fortress and made Saiko-ji Temple the family temple of the Kasuya Family.  In August, 1358, all 7 temple buildings were washed away by a great flood, but they were rebuilt around April, 1363, by Yasutsura, Arinori's great-grandson.  Later, it was damaged by fire during wartime, but Kasuya Takenori (1562-?), the 12th lord of the fortress, donated a guest hall.  On March 3rd, 1603, Priest Kankai renamed it Shomyo-in Temple, but it was later renamed Shomyo-ji Temple.  On September 27th, 1606, Nakamura Masakatsu, the magistrate of Ikeda Terumasa (1565-1613), donated 3 areas of rice fields.  On October 22nd, 1619, Itakura Katsushige (1545-1624) donated the temple rice fields worth 6 people’s annual living expenses.  The temple was later destroyed by fire again, but the current temple buildings were rebuilt in 1691.

     It is unknown why Katsushige contributed.  He had nothing to do with the Himeji Domain, let alone with Shomyo-ji Temple.

     Katsushige served in the Tokugawa Shogunate as the 2nd Kyoto Shoshidai, who was responsible for maintaining good relations and open communication between the shogunate and the imperial court, holding office in the period spanning the years from 1601 through 1620.

     In 1619, the Oyotsu Lady-in-Waiting Incident broke out.

     Yotsutsuji Yotsuko (?–1639) served as a lady-in-waiting to Emperor Go-Mizunoo (1596-1680).  Her father was Yotsutsuji Kimito (1540-1595), a Seior Second Rank Provisional Grand Councilor.  Her posthumous name was Myokyoin.  Her older sister was Keigan’in (?-1604), a concubine of Uesugi Kagekatsu (1556-1623).  Her brothers included Washio Takanao (1566-1608), Yotsutsuji Suetsugu (1581-1639), Inokuma Noritoshi (1583-1609), and Yabu Tsuguyoshi (1593-1653).

     Yotsuko initially served Kanshuji Haruko (1553-1620) and was known as Ayanokoji, but, around 1618, she served Emperor Go-Mizunoo as a lady-in-waiting, giving birth to one son and one daughter: Prince Kamo (1618-1622) and Princess Bunchi (1619-1697).

     When Tokugawa Kazuko (1607-1678) entered the Imperial Court as the Consort of Emperor Go-Mizunoo, Yotsuko was pressured by the Shogunate to be kept away from the Emperor and banished from the Imperial Palace (the Oyotsu Lady-in-Waiting Incident).  Soon after, she is said to have renounced worldly life, taken the Buddhist name Myokyoin, and lived in seclusion in Saga.

     In September, 1619, Madenokoji Atsufusa (1562-1626), who was the counselor of the first rank in the Imperial court, was held responsible for his supervisory duties and was exiled to the Tanba Sasayama Domain.  Yotsuko's older brothers, Suetsugu and Tsuguyoshi, were exiled to Bungo Province.  Furthermore, Nakamikado Naoyoshi (q590-1641), Horikawa Yasutane (1592-1673), and Tsuchimikado Hisanaga (1560-1625), who were close aides of the Emperor, were suspended from their duties.

     Anyway, no Royal Family member, no high-ranking noble, none of Yotsuko’s relatives were exiled to Shomyo-ji Temple.  Presumably, someone obscure could have been secluded in the temple.

     Shomyo-ji Temple is also the 26th station of the Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.

 

Address: Honmachi-313 Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0037

Phone: 079-422-2262

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #31 Nyoi-ji Temple

 

     Nyoi-ji Temple is said to have been founded sometime between the end of the Kamakura Period (1185-1333) and the beginning of the Muromachi Period (1336-1573), ignoring the legend that it was founded by Hermit Hodo.

     In 1339, Oi Tsukasa became the steward samurai of the Gannan Manor and built Ishihajiki Fortress, which later became Tomari Shrine.  Nyoi-ji Temple could have been founded in those days.  In 1375, Tsukasa's 5th son, Isamu, became the head of the family.  His 1st son, Osa, called himself Kimura Gentaro in 1454.  In 1455, Isamu was killed in battle.  The fortress was seized by Yamana Mochitoyo (1404-1473) in 1459, and Gentaro was killed in battle.

     Nyoi-ji Temple is also the 27th station of the Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.

 

Address: Kimura-602 Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0038

Phone: 079-423-6961

Tomari Shrine

Address: Kimura-658 Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0038

Phone: 079-422-4813

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #30 Fukuden-ji Temple

 

     Fukuden-ji Temple is said to have been founded in 606 by Prince Shotoku (574-622).

 Inaya Village was first documented in 1326.  During the Southern and Northern Courts Period (1337-1392) and the Muromachi Period (1336-1573), it received the patronage of the Akamatsu Clan, and it is believed that Akamatsu Norimura (1277-1350) and Akamatsu Masanori (1455-1496) built and renovated the temple buildings.

     It was destroyed by fire during the Warring States Period (1467-1573), and was converted to the Caodong Chan Sect sometime between 1592 and 1596.

     The place name Inaya means Rice Warehouse and the temple name Fukuden means Fortune Fields.  The names suggest what it looked like around the area in ancient times, when the temple was founded.  In the medieval days, the Inaya Fortress was built in the grounds of Fukuden-ji Temple.

     One intriguing mystery surrounding Fukuden-ji is its dual role in local pilgrimage routes: it is designated as both the 30th station of the Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage and the 28th station of the Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.

     Historically, the Kako River formed the natural boundary between Kako County on the left bank and Innami County on the right. Interestingly, Fukuden-ji is not alone—a total of five stations of the Innami County Pilgrimage are located on the left bank today. This strongly indicates that in ancient times, the main stream of the Kako River flowed much further to the east. As the river shifted its course westward over centuries—and was eventually fully straightened in the early 20th century—this entire area was left on the left bank, preserving the memory of the ancient landscape through its sacred pilgrimage sites.

Address: Inaya-607 Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0034

Phone: 079-422-5848

Inaya Fortress Site

Address: Inaya-584-1 Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0034

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #29 Amida -do Hall

 

     Kakurin-ji Temple’s Jogyo-do Hall is commonly called Amida-do.  The hall is believed to have been built around 1112, at the same time as its twin hall, Taishi-do, was built.

     A Jogyo-do hall is also referred to as a Jogyo-Zanmai-do hall.  Jogyo Zammai is the Buddhist practice in which monks walk around Amidabha for 90 days while chanting Nianfo and thinking of Amidabha in their hearts.  Therefore, the hall is square with Amidabha enshrined in the center, and often has a tented pyramidal roof.

Jogyo-do Hall, Kakurin-ji

Address: Kitazaike-424 Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0031

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #28 Jotoku-ji Temple

 

     It is unknown when Jotoku-ji Temple was founded in Awazu Village, Kako County, Harima Province.  Awazu Village was first documented in Kakurin-ji Temple's list of its land in 1515.  As Jotoku-ji Temple belongs to Shingon sect when Kakurin-ji Temple belongs to Tiantai sect, Jotoku-ji Temple couldn't be founded as a branch of Kakurin-ji Temple. 

Address: Awazu-377 Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0039

Phone: 079-422-7695