Kakuta Haruo---Decoding Japan---
Wednesday, November 04, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #27 Myogan-ji Temple
It is unknown when the temple was originally founded in Nishi-Shimozato Manor as a Shingon sect temple, then recorded as Myogon-ji. The manor first appeared in historical records in 1188 and was later renamed Kensaka Manor. Prior to the Edo period, the manor was divided into Higashi-Kensaka and Nishi-Kensaka Villages. In 1560, the priest Kaichu converted the temple to the Caodong Chan sect, relocated it to its present site, and renamed it Myogan-ji.
The temple's original location is believed to have been somewhere between the Kumano-shrine Tumulus (Kumano-jinja Kofun) and Bochi (the cemetery) in Higashi-Kensaka.
Myogan-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
High on Mount Kokoku, sacred and grand,
A vows for the future protects this land.
Like the timeless shine of the sun and moon,
The Buddha’s grace grants its holy boon.
Address: 519 Higashikenzakacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2346
Phone: 0790-46-0132
Bochi
Address: Higashikenzakacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2346
Kumano-shrine Burial Site
Address: 1330 Higashikenzakacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2346
Tuesday, November 03, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #26 Ichijo-ji Temple
The hermitage Hodo flew to Japan on a purple cloud from India via China and the Korean kingdom of Baekje. He discovered a sacred mountain in the shape of an eight-petaled lotus flower in Kamo County, Harima Province. He landed there, and named it "Mount Hokke," referring to the sacred mountain of the Lotus Sutra. That is believed to have been the foundation of Ichijo-ji Temple.
Ichijo-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Spring brings the blossoms, summer orange flowers light,
Autumn holds the chrysanthemums in radiant sight.
Ever blooming through the seasons, calm and grand,
The flowers of the Law adorn this sacred land.
Ichijo-ji is the 26th temple of the Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, and this poem is its official pilgrimage hymn.
When a temple belongs to multiple pilgrimage routes, its pilgrimage hymn (goeika) either remains the same across routes or is newly composed for each specific pilgrimage. This dynamic reflects the historical development of Japanese pilgrimage traditions, temple prestige, and local religious life during the Edo period.
1. Why Hymns Were Retained (The Case of Ichijo-ji)
Authority of Major Routes: Hymns from prestigious, ancient circuits like the Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage carried immense spiritual authority. The poem of Ichijo-ji was so renowned that local communities preferred to retain it rather than create a new one.
Copy Pilgrimages (Utsushi-reijo): During the Edo period, local replicas of the Saigoku circuit were established for practitioners unable to travel afar. These local routes often preserved the original hymns to recreate the spiritual merit of the grand pilgrimage locally.
2. Why New Hymns Were Composed
Different Deities and Enshrined Objects: If a temple was included in a new circuit for a different deity (such as Fudo Myoo or Jizo), a new hymn was written to praise that specific manifestation.
Regional Sequence and Local Identity: Hymns often incorporated specific station numbers or local landmarks. When local monks or literary figures organized new regional circuits, they frequently composed a fresh set of thirty-three hymns to give the local route a unified identity.
Address: 821-17 Sakamotocho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2222
Phone: 0790-48-2006
Monday, November 02, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #25 Amida-ji Temple
In 1694, Akamatsu Motonobu supported the foundation of Amida-ji Temple in Kasahara Village, Kasai County, Harima Province. The village was first documented in 1059. The Akamatsu clan used to rule the province, but no big name among them had Moto or Nobu in their 1st names. Motonobu could have belonged to a very minor branch of the clan. His ancestors could have become farmers after the collapse of the clan in the Warring States Period (1467-1568).
The temple's 3rd priest Kinmyo improved the temple buildings and documents after 1751, and finally had the temple authorized as an official Buddhist temple under the danka system. Although Kasahara Village was old, Amida-ji was the only temple in Kasahara village, which might have been under the strong influence of Ichijo-ji Temple, the next station of the Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.
Amida-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Oh, how divine! The Buddha's grace descends,
A sacred mercy that forever flows.
The vow of peace and comfort never ends,
Where Kasahara's timeless temple glows.
Address: 798 Nishikasaharacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2213
Phone: 0790-48-3006
Saturday, October 31, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #24 Kensho-ji Temple
Kensho-ji Temple, the 24th temple on the Kasai District Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, was originally established in Tawara Village, Harima Province (present-day Tawara-cho, Kasai City), belonging to Caodong Chan sect. It was founded by Unkitsu, though it remains unclear whether Unkitsu was a Buddhist priest or a lay patron. The construction of the temple culminated with the completion of its main gate in 1700.
In the 17th century, the Tokugawa Shogunate established the danka system, which made affiliation with a local Buddhist temple compulsory for all citizens. Because Kensho-ji was the only temple within Tawara Village, its founding in 1674 likely served a vital purpose for the community. By establishing their own temple rather than relying on one in a neighboring village, the villagers could maintain their independence and avoid owing obligations during inter-village conflicts.
This autonomy was particularly crucial regarding water rights. Tawara Village first appears in historical records around 1600 in documentation concerning an irrigation dispute with neighboring Abiki Village, highlighting how essential self-reliance was for the village’s survival and negotiations.
The temple in Abiki Village was Shuhen-ji, the 24th station of the Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon pilgrimage, and belongs to the Shingon sect. The village was first documented in 1322. Obviously, Kensho-ji Temple was founded to rival Shuhen-ji, or to help Tawara rival Abiki.
In 1674, however, persistent heavy rains swept across western Japan from spring through summer, triggering severe flooding known as the Enpo Floods. That September, a devastating typhoon struck Harima Province and the Seto Inland Sea coast, wiping out crops and homes. These consecutive disasters led directly to the widespread Enpo Famine of 1675.
It is unknown whether Unkitsu began establishing the temple before or during these catastrophes. Regardless, overcoming such severe hardships likely meant that fully completing the temple complex took over a quarter of a century.
Kensho-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Within the sacred garden’s calm,
The whispering pines, the temple toll,
Awaken in the seeking soul
The timeless truth of Buddha’s balm.
Address: 2605 Taharacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2114
Phone: 0790-49-0242
Friday, October 30, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #23 Shuhen-ji Temple
It is said that Shuhen-ji Temple originated in 651, when the ascetic Hodo enshrined a portion of a sutra he had transcribed onto stone and erected a hall, naming the site "Kyo-no-o" (Sutra Ridge).
Shuhen-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Before us spreads the ocean blue, behind, the mountains rise,
Across the sacred, rugged pass, beneath the boundless skies.
Upon Mt. Nyoi's tranquil height, the gentle moonlight gleams,
To guide our weary pilgrim steps with pure and holy beams.
Overlooking History: The Historical Depth of Mt. Nyoi's Pilgrimage Hymn
The pilgrimage hymn (Goeika) of Shuhen-ji Temple captures more than just an immediate physical landscape—it evokes a deep sense of Japan's ancient and medieval history.
"Before us lies the sea, and behind us stand high mountain peaks, / As we cross through the long and rugged pass."
To appreciate the true resonance of these lines, one must look at the unique geographical position of Kasai and the Harima region.
1. Ancient Arrivals: Crossing the Divide
Historically, the mountains behind Kasai formed a natural boundary between the Sea of Japan coast and the Seto Inland Sea. According to local legends, the hermit Hodo Sennin—the mythical founder of Shuhen-ji in 651—arrived from overseas via the northern coast and crossed these rugged mountains to establish sacred sites in Harima. For ancient migrants and seafaring travelers from the Korean Peninsula or the Izumo region, climbing these passes was a journey from the northern sea to a new life along the southern coast.
2. Medieval Crossroads: Conflict and Commerce
Beyond ancient myth, these mountain passes served as a vital geopolitical artery during the medieval period. During the turbulence of the Muromachi period—most notably the Kakitsu Incident of 1441—the powerful Yamana clan swept down from their base in the San'in region, crossing the watershed into Harima to challenge the Akamatsu clan. For centuries, soldiers, traders, and monks traversed these exact ridges, linking the cultural spheres of the north and south.
3. The Pilgrim’s Reflection
When pilgrims reach the summit of Mt. Nyoi and look out toward the distant sea with the mountains at their back, they stand at a historical crossroads. The bright moon shining over Shuhen-ji has illuminated countless travelers through the ages—from ancient immigrants seeking new homes to medieval warriors and peaceful pilgrims. The hymn stands as a poetic testament to the timeless human journey across the mountains of Harima.
Address: 1964 Abikicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2113
Shuhen-ji Kyo-no-o (Shuhen-ji Sutra Ridge)
Addres: 1964 Abikicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2113
Thursday, October 29, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #22 Mitsuzo-in Temple
Shuhen-ji Temple is said to have been founded by the hermit Hodo in 651. It is unclear when Mitsuzo-in, one of its sub-temples, was established.
However, the grounds of Mitsuzo-in feature the Sekikan-butsu (a stone Buddha carved into a slab from an ancient megalithic tomb), which is estimated to date from the late Kamakura period (1185–1333) to the Nanboku-cho (Southern and Northern Courts) period (1336–1392). This suggests that the temple may have been founded around that time.
Mitsuzo-in Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Upon Mt. Nyoi’s sacred peak, deep vows of grace abide,
Clear streams of Dharma logic flow down the mountain side.
Like cleansing waters pure and cool, they wash all sins away,
And all living souls shall truly thrive beneath its holy ray.
Address: 831-42 Abikicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2113
Phone: 0790-49-0558
Shuhen-ji Temple
Address: 1964 Abikicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2113
Wednesday, October 28, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #21 Fukusho-ji Temple
Fukusho-ji Temple was originally located near Kanatsurube Fortress, but was moved to its current site between 1532 and 1555 by Nakamura Rokurozaemon.
The Nakamura family, based at the fortress, was driven out by Beppu Kuro around 1533. It is believed that Rokurozaemon then fled to Kuwaharada Village—a settlement first documented in 1059. The Beppu family was subsequently destroyed by the Bessho clan between 1558 and 1570.
Fukusho-ji Temple subsequently fell into decline but was revived sometime between 1624 and 1644 by the monk Kyoen, who had come from an eastern province. Some time between 1655 and 1658, it attained the formal status of a Buddhist temple.
Fukusho-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Though my deepest faults are heavy,
And my sins reach far and wide,
Under the merciful moon's soft glow,
I am cleansed and purified.
Address: 471 Kuwaharatacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2111
Kanatsurube Fortress Site
Address: 114 Showacho, Ono, Hyogo 675-1359
Phone: 0794-63-1000
