Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #7 Fuko-ji Temple

 

     According to tradition, Fuko-ji Temple was founded in 651 by the ascetic Hodo.

The heavy concentration of Hodo Sennin (Ascetic Hodo) temple-founding legends in the eastern Seto Inland Sea region—specifically Harima, Settsu, and Tanba Provinces—is widely viewed by historians as a reflection of 7th-century geopolitical dynamics and the Yamato court’s immigration policy following the turmoil on the Korean Peninsula.

​Key Historical & Strategic Factors

     ​Geopolitical Dispersion & National Security Following the fall of Baekje (660) and Goguryeo (668), as well as the Battle of Baekgang (663), waves of refugees and immigrants arrived in Japan. To prevent large concentrations of newcomers in western maritime regions (such as northern Kyushu or western San'yo) where they might form autonomous enclaves or pose security risks, the Yamato court intentionally dispersed and resettled them further east into the home provinces (Kinai) and its western approaches.

​Strategic Placement of Skilled Immigrants 

     The refugees included educated monks, artisans, and experts in civil engineering, metallurgy, and medicine. Settled in Harima, Settsu, and Tanba—vital transit hubs rich in timber and mineral resources—these groups contributed directly to regional development, local governance, and early Buddhist patronage under court oversight.

​Mythologizing the Historical Reality 

     While legendary accounts depict Hodo Sennin as an ascetic flying from India on a purple cloud, the figure likely serves as a composite symbol for the immigrant lineages and itinerant monks who established early Buddhist sites. Many temples linked to Hodo claim founding dates during the Hakuchi era (650–654), a timeline that closely mirrors the peak inflow of continental refugees.

     Although the temple complex was lost to fire in 1306 and destroyed during the war in 1582, it was subsequently revived by Priest Kuyo.

     Following a tragic fire in 1938 that consumed the main hall and neighboring structures, the current main hall was reconstructed in 1970.

     Fuko-ji Temple is also #17 of the Harima Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.  The temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

All holy laws gather within this sacred place,

Upon Mount Horai, filled with heavenly grace.

To stand at Fuko-ji where truth resides,

Brings joyful peace in which my soul abides.

Address: 1449 Kouchicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2421

Phone: 0790-45-0056

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #6 Amida-ji Temple

 

     It is unknown when Amida-an Hermitage was founded in Bessho Village, Kasai County, Harima Province, by the Hashio family. In 1952, it was officially renamed Amida-ji Temple.

     In 1160, Bessho Yorikiyo built the Kochi Fortress and established the Bessho family. It remains unclear whether the family took its name from the village or if the place was named after the family. The family is believed to be one of the legendary lineages that eventually produced the Bessho clan, who later ruled Miki Castle.

     After the Warring States period (1467–1573), Miki County developed around Miki Castle as its center. The castle was built by Bessho Noriharu (?—1513), who dramatically emerged in the samurai society of Harima Province. More than ten stories exist regarding the origin of the Bessho family.

     In ancient times, some Emishi people were captured, while others surrendered voluntarily because favorable conditions were offered to them. They were required to swear obedience and offer local special products—such as rare animal pelts and bird feathers—to the Japanese state. In return, they were exempted from taxes and provided with food and clothing. This arrangement must have seemed more like a contract or trade to them. These people were referred to as "subordinate Emishi" (or fushu). Some of these Emishi were relocated and assigned to various provinces throughout Japan. For example, in 725, 144 subordinate Emishi were relocated to Iyo Province, 578 to Tsukushi Province, and 15 to Izumi Province. In 738, 115 were assigned to Settsu Province. After 774, the number of relocated Emishi increased, as did the number of provinces to which they were assigned.

     The Wamyo Ruijusho (Japanese Names for Things Classified and Annotated), a Japanese dictionary compiled around 938, lists place names from south to north. It records "Emishi Village" in Mino County.

     Furthermore, according to an entry in the Nihon Sandai Jitsuroku dated April 11th, 866, five Emishi people from Kako and Mino Counties escaped to Omi Province.

     The Nihon Sandai Jitsuroku (The True Record of Three Reigns of Japan) is an official historical text commissioned during the reign of Emperor Uda (867–931). Compiled by Fujiwara Tokihira (871–909), Sugawara Michizane (845–903), Okura Yoshiyuki (832–921), and Mimune Masahira (853–926), it covers the years from August 27, 858, to August 26, 887, spanning three imperial reigns: Seiwa, Yozei, and Koko. The compilation was completed in 901.

     Taken together, these records indicate that a number of subordinate Emishi were relocated and assigned to Minagi, Mino, or Miki County.

     Kikuchi Takeharu (1890–1966) argued that the places where subordinate Emishi were relocated and assigned were called Bessho. If this hypothesis holds, Noriharu, who built Miki Castle, could have been a descendant either of these subordinate Emishi or of those who had ruled them in Minagi, Mino, or Miki County.

     Amida-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

Far along the Sacred Way we trace,

Unto the Stupa Mount we make our vow,

Through Amida’s solemn Oath of Grace,

The Sacred Jewel shines upon us now.

Address: 1 Besshocho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2462

Phone: 0790-44-0314

Kouchi Fort Ruin

Address: Satanicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2461

Miki Castle Ruins

Address: 5 Uenomarucho, Miki, Hyogo 673-0432

Phone: 0794-82-2000

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #5 Kyugaku-ji Temple

 

     Kyugaku-ji Temple was founded by Priest Shoko in 1446 in the mountains to the north of its current location.  It means that the temple was established when Chan Buddhism (specifically the Caodong school) was flourishing in the Northern part of Harima Province.

     In those days, the Keta Family ruled the Keta Village, so the family might have supported the foundation of the temple.

     It is unknown when the temple moved to its current location but, when Asano Naganao (1610-1672) stayed in the temple in 1645, it was already in its present place.

     As the Keta Family moved to Nozato Village (today's Nozato, Himeji, Hyogo 670-0811), being subject to Kuroda Mototaka (1524-1585), the temple’s relocation could have had something to do with the move of the family.

     In the Edo period (1603-1867), the Keta Family became the head of metal casters in Himeji.

     Kyugaku-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

To distant heights we make our way,

And reach Kyugaku's sacred gate,

Where Buddha's promises array,

Deep as the stream that bears its fate.

Address: 982 Kamiketacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2465

Phone: 0790-44-1405

Keta Fortress Site

Address: Shimoketacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2464

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #4 Kongo-in Temple

 

     Mangan-ji Temple is said to have been founded by the hermit Hodo. Although it is uncertain when the original temple declined, its sub-temple, Kongo-in, eventually succeeded its lineage.

     In a corner of the temple grounds stand the "Ichigan-do Daruma" dolls. Known as "Ichigan Daruma" (Single-Wish Daruma), they embody the blessings of "Ichigan Shugyo Daishi" (the Great Master of Single-Wish Ascetic Practice), a deity believed to grant just one wish. During the Daruma Festival held annually on the third Sunday of February, worshippers receive a doll with only one eye painted in; once their wish comes true, they paint the other eye and return the doll to the temple. The festival was established in 1989, and the collection has now grown to approximately 800 dolls.

     Daruma comes from Bodhidharma, who was a semi-legendary Buddhist monk who lived during the 5th or 6th century.  He is traditionally credited as the transmitter of Chan Buddhism to China.  A Daruma doll is a hollow, round, Japanese traditional doll modeled after Bodhidharma.

     Kongo-in Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

Upon the diamond peak, the Great Compassionate Lord shines bright,

Illuminating mountain crests with soft, celestial light.

The heart that prays to Him shines on through morning skies,

Unfading like the dawn's dawn moon before the sun's sunrise.

The Legend of Hermit Hodo and the Geopolitics of the 7th Century

A Turning Point in East Asia (642–676)

     The year 642 marked a shift toward the restructuring of East Asia, culminating in Silla’s unification of the Korean Peninsula in 676. In 642, King Uija (599–660) of Baekje invaded Silla, capturing over 40 fortresses and killing the daughter and son-in-law of Kim Chun-chu (603–661), the future King of Silla.

     Domestically, King Uija established an autocratic regime, purging political opponents to solidify his grip. This concentration of power was mirrored across the region: Yeon Gaesomun (d. 666) seized power in a coup in Goguryeo, while in Japan, Soga Emishi (586–645) and his son Iruka (d. 645) tightened their control following the death of Emperor Jomei (593–641) and the ascension of Empress Kogyoku (594–661).

The Exile’s Persona: From "Field" to "Valley"

     Just as Sakanoue no Tamuramaro (758–811) was invoked as a symbolic founder of temples in the Tohoku region, "Hermit Hodo" served a specific purpose in Eastern Harima.

     During the mid-7th century, high-ranking Baekje nobles fleeing King Uija’s purges likely sought refuge in the Japanese archipelago. Some of these exiles settled in Eastern Harima, moving from the open flat fields into the deeper valleys to reclaim the land. For these immigrant communities, Hodo—a legendary hermit said to have traveled from India through Tang China and Baekje—provided the perfect founding "persona," linking their local religious sites to a prestigious continental lineage of Buddhism.

     For your information, Hodo, who is supposed to have originally borne the Sanskrit name Dharmapatha, might have been called Puap-dauh in China, Papp-do in Korea, and Papotau or Fafatau when he arrived in Japan.

Address: 411 Kamimanganjicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2451

Phone: 0790-44-1255

The Itami Family and Hosokawa Takakuni and Oriental Melons

 1. The Itami Family and the Collapse of Takakuni

The Itami family ruled the surrounding region from their stronghold, Itami Castle. Their name first appears in historical records in 1309, during the Kamakura period (1185–1333), when Itami Chikamori served the deputy military governor (shugodai) of Settsu Province. Later, during the Nanboku-cho period (1336–1392), Itami Saemon-no-jo was recorded in 1363. On June 4, 1531, Itami Kunisuke fell in battle when Hosokawa Takakuni (1484–1531)—the 31st Kanrei (Shogunal Deputy) of the Muromachi Shogunate and 15th head of the Kyocho-Hosokawa family—was defeated by the allied forces of Hosokawa Harumoto and Miyoshi Motonaga (1501–1532).

In 1521, at the height of his power, Takakuni deposed the 10th shogun, Ashikaga Yoshitane (1466–1523), replacing him with Yoshiharu (1511–1550, the 11th shogun), son of the 8th shogun, Ashikaga Yoshizumi (1480–11511). Yet, as the saying goes, light is always accompanied by shadow. In July 1526, Takakuni’s cousin, Hosokawa Tadakata (d. 1531), fabricated allegations that Takakuni’s key retainer, Kozai Motomori (d. 1526), was in secret communication with Hosokawa Harumoto (1514–1563). Tadakata’s exact motives remain unknown, though Motomori was said to be unrefined and uneducated. Flying into a rage, Takakuni had Motomori assassinated.

This act enraged Motomori’s brothers, Hatano Motokiyo (d. 1530) and Yanagimoto Kataharu (d. 1530), who promptly rebelled in their home province of Tanba. Motokiyo fortified Yakami Castle, while Kataharu held Kannosan Castle. Stunned by the uprising, Takakuni ordered Tadakata to lay siege to Kannosan Castle, while dispatching Kawarabayashi Shurinosuke and Ikeda Danjo to Yakami Castle on October 23. Skirmishes persisted for days. On November 5, Naito Kunisada (d. 1553), lord of Yagi Castle who sympathized with the brothers, withdrew his forces from the encirclement of Kannosan Castle. On November 30, Akai Goro, lord of Kuroi Castle, struck and broke the siege. As Takakuni’s troops retreated, infighting broke out between Shurinosuke and Danjo, while Tadakata simply fled. Within six months, the political fragility of Takakuni’s regime stood fully exposed.

2. The Miyoshi Intervention and the Seesaw War

The Miyoshi family was swift to exploit this vulnerability. As if acting in concert with Motokiyo and Kataharu, Miyoshi Masanaga (1508–1549) landed at Sakai as early as December 13, seizing Hori Fortress—a stronghold situated on an island in the Yodo River, near present-day Juso Park.

Following a series of dramatic political reversals and the ongoing decline of the Muromachi Shogunate, Takakuni went into exile, wandering through Iga, Ise, Echizen, Izumo, and Bizen provinces. He eventually secured the backing of Uragami Muramune (1498–1531), a powerful warlord based at Mitsuishi Castle in Bizen. Rebuilding his strength, Takakuni and Muramune occupied Harima Province on July 27, 1530, captured Itami Castle by late February 1531, and reclaimed Kyoto on March 7. They then advanced toward Sakai in Izumi Province, the seat of Ashikaga Yoshitsuna (1511–1573)—known as the "Sakai Shogun"—who exercised a degree of shogunal authority.

A fierce, seesaw struggle ensued. On June 2, Akamatsu Harumasa (1495–1565), stationed at Okishio Castle, arrived at Kannoji Temple and was welcomed that evening by Takakuni and Muramune. However, on June 4, Harumasa unexpectedly defected to the Sakai Shogunate. Caught in a pincer attack—with Harumasa striking from the north and the Sakai forces pressing from the south—Takakuni’s army collapsed.

3. The Tragedy of Itami Kunisuke and the Downfall at Daimotsu

Itami Kunisuke lost his life in the chaotic melee. Was his sacrifice born of loyalty to Takakuni? Hardly. He was simply swept away in a self-serving struggle for survival. The Hosokawa Ryoke-ki (Chronicle of the Two Hosokawa Houses), written by Ikushima Sochiku and covering events from 1504 to 1570, captures the horror of the scene: "The river was so choked with corpses that it resembled a burial mound. People said that such a disaster was unprecedented—unheard of in the past, present, or future." Driven by ambition, Kunisuke had submitted to Takakuni, earning the honorific character "Kuni" (国) for his name, only to realize too late that he had jumped onto a sinking ship.

With his primary retainers slain, Takakuni fled the battlefield in ruin toward Amagasaki. He sought refuge at Daimotsu Castle, only to find it already occupied by Akamatsu forces. Desperate, he hid in an indigo dyeing shop called Kyoya, turning a large ceramic indigo pot upside down and crouching underneath it. On June 5, Miyoshi Kazuhide (d. 1532) arrived in search of him.

Knowing children were playing nearby, Kazuhide brought out a basket of oriental melons (makuwauri) and promised: "If you tell me where Takakuni is hiding, all of these melons are yours." Tempted by the sweet fruit, the children revealed his hiding place.

At around 4:00 a.m. on June 8, at the age of 48, Takakuni committed ritual suicide at Kotoku-ji Temple in Amagasaki. In his farewell poem (jisei), sent to Kitabatake Harutomo (1503–1563), he wrote:

The painted seas and mountains shown,

The landscapes sculpted into stone—

Even beyond the mortal space,

Shall my open eyes guard this place?

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #3 Senzan-ji Temple

 

     While the exact founding date of Senzan-ji is unknown, its history is deeply rooted in the region. If ancient enough, it originated in Arita Manor (first recorded in 1184), from which Michiyama Manor later split (first recorded in 1221). Higashi-Michiyama Village eventually formed here and was divided into Kami-Michiyama and Shimo-Michiyama before 1688.

     The temple precincts feature an Iwakura (a sacred rock where a deity resides), indicating that the location has been a place of worship since prehistoric times.

     For your information, on the opposite hill of the valley, there sits Isozaki Shrine, which is said to have been founded in the 8th century.

     Senzan-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

Walk toward Senzan-ji with a spirit pure and bright,

Unstained by muddy worldly thoughts or dark deceitful night.

Upon the sacred lotus flower's vow rely,

Where holy promise blossoms clean beneath the open sky.

Address: 116 Kamimichiyamacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2453

Isozaki Shrine

Address: 559-1 Shimomichiyamacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2454

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #2 Kokufu-ji Temple

 

     Kokufu-ji Temple was founded by Priest Myoe (1173-1232) sometime between 1190 and 1199 on the Tonohara Abandoned Temple Site.  The abandoned temple is believed to have been founded sometime between in the latter half of the 7th century and the beginning of the 8th century.  The temple is supposed to have had the Horyuji style temple buildings.  It is unknown why the Temple was abandoned but, judging from the foundation date of Kokufu-ji Temple, the abandoned temple could have been involved in the Genpei War (1180–1185), which resulted in the establishment of the Kamakura Shogunate.

     Kokufu-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

How blessed we are! The Buddha shines with lapis blue,

Whose radiant light brings comfort, pure and true.

With twelve great vows to save all souls from grief,

His everlasting mercy offers clear relief.

Address: 37 Tonoharacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2445

Phone: 0790-44-1086

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #1 Rakuho-ji Temple

 

     Josho-ji Temple was originally founded by Akamatsu Tameshige in Michiyama Village, Kasai County, Harima Province.  The village is now Ouchi-cho, Kasai City.  Based on the hereditary character, the element 'tame' in Tameshige's name is believed to derive from Tamesuke, the uncle of Ienori, the founder of the Akamatsu Clan. This strongly suggests that Tameshige belonged to an early branch or minor offshoot of the clan.  Accordingly, the temple's sango was Akamatsu-san.

     The temple was also known as Kiyomizu-dera because Tameshige recovered from an illness after praying to the copied Eleven-Faced Ekadasamukha image of Kiyomizu-dera Temple.

     Although the temple was later renamed Zensho-ji, it subsequently fell into decline due to the ravages of war and other factors.

     In 1652, Zensho-ji Temple was relocated to Yokoo Village, its current site. The principal image of Shakyamuni Buddha was enshrined, and Zenshitsu Senkaku, the 14th head priest of Keifuku-ji in Himeji, was invited to preside over the temple. At this time, the sect was changed from Tiantai to Caodong, and the temple was renamed Rakuho-ji.

     Why did it take about half a century for the temple to be revived?  In the middle of the 17th century, the danka system was established by the Tokugawa Shogunate.  Under the system, the shogunate made the affiliation with an official Buddhist temple compulsory to all citizens.  The system might have been a help for the revival of the temple.

     The former main hall was constructed in 1713, and was rebuilt in 2000.  Curiously, the temple enshrines Arya Avalokitesvara, who is the human-figure prototype of the other 6 metamorphoses, but not Eleven-Faced Ekadasamukha, who is enshrined in Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto.

     The temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

What joy can ever match this sacred way?

Where dharma's light guides every step each day.

The gentle wind that blows through ancient pine

Echoes the Buddha's voice, a phrase divine.

Address: 3 Hojocho Yokoo, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2311

Phone: 0790-42-0293

Kiyomizu-dera Temple

Address: 1 Chome-294 Kiyomizu, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0862

Phone: 075-551-1234

Keifuku-ji Temple

Address: 7-1 Keifukujimae, Himeji, Hyogo 670-0027 

Phone: 079-292-4807