Kakuta Haruo---Decoding Japan---
Tuesday, March 03, 2026
Virtual Old Akashi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #15 Seisui-ji Temple
Seisui-ji Temple claims to have been founded in 716 by Priest Joe (643-666). Their time lines are contradictory to each other. The temple's main deity is Bhaisajyaguru.
Jinno-ji Temple, Chorin-ji, Koke-ji, and Jurin-ji Temples claim that they belong to the Akashi Seven Yakushi Buddhas. Taisan-ji Temple might be a member of the Akashi Seven Yakushi Buddhas. If we included Seisui-ji Temple, we would have 6 of the Akashi Seven Yakushi Buddhas.
Shimoosabe Sumiyoshi Shrine’s priest, Morioka Tangonokami, is said to have led the foundation of Seisui-ji Temple. The shrine is said to have been founded in 754, nearly 4 decades after the foundation of Seisui-ji Temple. Everything is inconsistent with one another.
The temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
It's a blessing.
As we make a wish,
Bhaisajyaguru protect us every time.
or
A white waterfall in the mountain
And the sound of the winds through pine trees
Will certainly make it cool.
Inconsistency shadows even on the Buddhist tanka poems.
Address: Wada-570 Oshibedanicho, Nishi Ward, Kobe, Hyogo 651-2206
Jinno-ji Temple
Address: 2 Chome-14-18 Hayashi, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0034
Phone: 078-923-4351
Chorin-ji Temple
Address: 9-4 Zaimokucho, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0893
Phone: 078-911-4727
Koke-ji Temple
Address: 2-chome-10-35 Taidera, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0845
Phone: 078-911-3755
Jurin-ji Temple
Address: 1074 Takasagocho Yokomachi, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0051
Phone: 079-442-0242
Taisan-ji Temple
Address: Zenkai-224 Ikawadani-chō, Nishi Ward, Kobe, Hyogo 651-2108
Phone: 078-976-6658
Shimoosabe Sumiyoshi Shrine
Address: Saita-302 Oshibedanicho, Nishi Ward, Kobe, Hyogo 651-2207
Phone: 078-994-4406
Monday, March 02, 2026
Sanuki no Suke’s Diary (22)
Suddenly, something was thrown through the sliding door. I looked to see what it was, and saw a person crouching there, wearing the indigo-and-safflower colored outer garment I had left in my room. It was my sister, Fujiwara Kenshi, who had come to visit after hearing of the Emperor's death.
"Oh, how pitiful. I will never again be able to see you alive. Why did you avoid me and not call me? I cared for you without fail, even through your long illness. Now, at the very last moment, I have fallen ill myself. I regret my misfortune."
She continued crying.
I sat quietly beside him, pressing the fine quality crepe paper I had used to wipe the sweat from his face against my face. "Until now, I have thought that my love for the Emperor was just as strong as those crying people's, but perhaps mine was inferior, for I was unable to cry out loud like them," I realized.
Virtual Old Akashi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #7 Kodo-ji Temple
Ei-jima or Ei-ga-jima Island was located in the west of the mouth of Akane River. In 726, Kasa Kanamura composed a poem mentioning the island as Nakisumi-no-funase:
I have heard that in Matsuho Bay on Awaji Island,
which can be seen over Nakisumi-no Funase,
Young female divers collect seaweed in the morning
And parch seaweed to get salt in the evening.
I have no way of going to see these girls.
Without a man's heart but with the broken heart,
I just go back and forth in the same place,
Yearning for the female divers.
I have neither a boat nor a helm.
Funase was an inlet where boats waited for favorable or weaker winds. In 744, Gyoki (668-749) built a breakwater for the port and overhauled it as Uozumi Port. The port was one of the 5 important ports in Harima and Settsu Provinces: Muro, Matogata, Uozumi, Owada, and Kawajiri Ports, which were located in today's Tatsuno, Himeji, Akashi, Kobe, and Amagasaki Cities.
It is unknown when Eigashima Port was developed in the east of the mouth of Akane River. Muryo-ko-ji Temple was originally founded for the port town people. Priest Rin'yo moved the temple to its present place, with its Kannon-do hall left as Kodo-ji Temple, in 1613, 4 years before Ogasawara Tadazane (1596-1667) started building Akashi Castle and its castle town in 1617. Some argue that the temple was moved due to severe coastal erosion. Akashi Port might have become better and more prosperous than Eigashima Port.
The temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
The heart that prays for the comfort
In the other world
Is just as pure as the water in the sea.
It is unknown why the temple left the pilgrimage.
Address: Eigashima-785 Okubocho, Akashi, Hyogo 674-0064
Muryoko-ji Temple
Address: 10-11 Taikancho, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0897
Phone: 078-912-8839
Eigashima Fishing Port
Address: Nishijima Okubocho, Akashi, Hyogo 674-0065
Funage Castle Site
Address: 10-33 Shinmeicho, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0027
Sunday, March 01, 2026
Old Akashi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage
I have finished virtally visiting Akashi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. The pilgrimage is said to have replaced some member temples, and I continue to virtually visit them.
Akashi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage was organized in Akashi County, Harima Province, in 1685. It isn’t recorded why and by whom the pilgrimage was organized. If you don’t mind my speculating why and by whom as I please, the organization could have had something to do with when it was organized.
To begin with, the 5th lord of the Akashi Domain, Matsudaira Tadakuni (1597-1659), arrived at Akashi in 1649. He was a literature nerd. As you may know, Japanese people love to carry out Seichi-Junrei, namely Religious Pilgrimage, but actually to visit the location sites of literature works, movies, and even anime. In anime’s cases, we even assume that this and that real places are actually related to this and that scenes in certain anime, and we make pilgrimages according to those assumptions. Tadakuni did what we do today.
Tadakuni assumed that certain places were the places where the stories of Tale of Genji took place. In the Tale of Genji, Monk Akashi and Princess Akashi lived in Oka-no-tachi, or Hill Residence. They are all imaginary, but Tadakuni built even a five-ringed tower grave for Monk Akashi and identified the pine tree which the Shining Prince, who stayed at Hama-no-tachi, or Beach Residence, looked at and the alley through which he visited the princess. Tadakuni even composed tanka poems for the places and built stone monuments there with his tanka poems inscribed. Some of them became “holy places” for literature nerds like him. Some temples became popular enough to attract more worshipers, and accordingly increase their income.
Tadakuni and his son, Nobuyuki (1631-1686), were good owners and managers of the domain. After Nobuyuki moved out, however, Honda Masatoshi (1641-1707) came. During his reign, the people of the domain complained to the inspector, pointing out that the domain administration was "inhumane." Masatoshi was dismissed on February 2nd, 1682, and Matsudaira Tadanao (1656-1721) arrived.
The domain needed to be put back on track. Organizing a 33 Kannon pilgrimage could decrease the number of outbound pilgrims or tourists, and, if the pilgrimage could attract some nerds, increase the number of inbound tourists. It even increased the income of 33 temples and that could help stabilize public morals.
It is unknown whether the replaced temples left the pilgrimage by their own wills or the pilgrimage got their names off the list. It is also unknown who chose the new member temples. Anyway, I'm virtually visiting those expelled.
Saturday, February 28, 2026
Virtual Akashi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #33 Gessho-ji Temple
In 811, Kukai (774-835) founded Yoryu-ji Temple on Akamatsuyama Hill, where Akashi Castle was built centuries later. In 887, Priest Kakusho of the temple enshrined the Eleven-Faced Ekadasamukha statue which had been the personal guardian Buddhist image of Kakinomoto Hitomaro (662-710) and changed the name of the temple to Gessho-ji. In 1574, the temple converted from Shingon Buddhism to Caodong Chan Buddhism. In 1621, its precincts became part of Akashi Castle, and, in 1622, the new buildings of Gessho-ji Temple were completed at their current locations. In 1744, the mountain's name was changed to Hitomaro-san after Kakinomoto Hitomaro, presumably to increase the number of its visitors. In 1871, Hitomaro-sha Shrine was separated from Gessho-ji Temple due to the Gods and Buddhas Separation Order issued in 1868 and it was renamed Kakimoto-jinja Shrine.
During the Edo Period (1603-1867), peace continued, the art of waka poetry flourished, and faith in Hitomaro grew. In 1723, at the 1,000th anniversary of Hitomaro's death, Hitomaro-sha Shrine was granted the divine title of Shoichii Kakimoto Daimyojin. Retired Emperor Reigen (1654-1732) donated large square cards of the Thirty-Six Immortals of Poetry, of which Hitomaro was a member, Emperor Sakuramachi (1720-1750) donated a troupe of short registers (formerly a national treasure and important cultural property) and the strips of paper with his 50 tanka poems, and Empress Go-Sakuramachi (1740-1813) gave the strips of paper with her tanka poems. Since then, literary figures and artists have continued to visit the temple, and the temple has also received many donations of calligraphy and paintings. Most of them are preserved at the Akashi Municipal Cultural Museum. In 1972, a grand celebration was held to mark the 1,250th anniversary of Hitomaro's death, with numerous tanka and haiku poems submitted from all over Japan. In addition, many books were published, including The Gessho-ji Temple Legend, The Manyo People's View of Nature, and Basho's Haiku Theory.
The temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Namo Eleven-Faced Ekadasamukha
Among Akashi Lagoon and the moonlit hills,
May the blessings of Hitomaro be profound.
Address: 1-29 Hitomarucho, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0877
Phone: 078-911-4947
Kakinomoto Shrine
Address: 1-26 Hitomarucho, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0877
Phone: 078-911-3930
Akashi Municipal Cultural Museum
Address: 2-chome-13-1 Uenomaru, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0846
Phone: 078-918-5400
Friday, February 27, 2026
Virtual Akashi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #32 Chorin-ji Temple
When Emperor Tohodi (683-707) reigned from 697 to 707, Gyoki (668-749) found 7 Bhaisajyaguru in the tops of a pine tree along the beach. He carved the 7 statues himself and built a temple, naming it Chorin-ji Temple.
In Taisan-ji Temple, it is Fujiwara Umakai (694-737) who made the 7 Bhaisajyaguru images (the Akashi Seven Yakushi Buddhas). Anyway, Chorin-ji Temple is a member of the Akashi Seven Yakushi Buddhas.
Chorin-ji Temple was destroyed by fire during the Onin War (1467-1477). In 1491, fundraising was carried out to construct a main hall. It was later rebuilt between 1711 and 1716 in the Edo Period (1603-1867). The main hall and other buildings were destroyed in an air raid on Akashi in July, 1945. They were rebuilt again in 1949.
The temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
We will always rely on Chorin-ji Temple,
Where the pine trees have been standing for a long time,
Which should have listened to the Buddhism teachings.
Address: 9-4 Zaimokucho, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0893
Phone: 078-911-4727
Taisan-ji Temple
Address: Zenkai-224 Ikawadani-chō, Nishi Ward, Kobe, Hyogo 651-2108
Phone: 078-976-6658
Thursday, February 26, 2026
Virtual Akashi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #31 Horin-ji Temple
Horin-ji Temple was founded in 1705 by Priest Yushin. Its wooden standing statue of Arya Avalokitesvara, who is the human-figure prototype of the other 6 metamorphoses, is supposed to have been made in the 12th century. It is unknown how the temple got such an old statue.
Yushin is said to have worked for the Settsu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #3 Kanno-ji Temple, which is supposed to have been founded in the 9th century. He could have brought the statue from Kan'no-ji Temple.
Horin-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Sin and guilt vanish here
In the temple facing the sea
In the snowy evening.
Address: 14-5 Zaimokucho, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0893
Phone: 078-911-4803
Kan'no-ji Temple
Address: 25-1 Kabutoyamacho, Nishinomiya, Hyogo 662-0001
Phone: 0798-72-1172
Wednesday, February 25, 2026
Virtual Akashi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #30 Komyo-ji Temple
Komyo-ji Temple was founded in Mino County, Harima Province, sometime between 1321 and 1324 by Priest Shin'yo. Ogasawara Tadazane (1596-1667) started building Akashi Castle and its castle town in 1617 and Komyo-ji Temple was moved to its present place in 1619 to form the castle town.
However, there is still another Komyo-ji Temple in Miki City. It is unrecorded when the Komyo-ji Temple was founded in Miki Castle Town, Mino County, Harima Province.
In 1578, the Bessho Family held Miki Castle against Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598). By January, 1580, food supplies in the castle had already run out, and the "starvation of Miki" continued. Meanwhile, Hideyoshi attacked the subsidiary fortress and forts of the castle, capturing Miyanoue Fort, which was defended by Bessho Tomoyuki (1560-1580), on the 6th, and Takaoyama Fortress, which was defended by Bessho Yoshichika (?-1580), on the 11th, leaving only the main castle. On the 14th, Bessho Shigemune (1529-1591), who sided with Hideyoshi, advised the castle's samurai that the castle lord's family would commit seppuku suicide to spare the lives of the other samurai. The Bessho Family accepted this, and on the 17th, Nagaharu (1558-1580) and his family committed seppuku suicides, ending the siege that had lasted for one year and ten months. After the war, when Hideyoshi developed the Miki Castle Town, Komyo-ji Temple was one of the 13 temples he permitted to found, and its founder passed away in 1601.
The 2 Komyo-ji Temples belong to Pure Land Buddhism, and it is unknown whether the 2 have something to do with each other or not.
The Akashi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #30 Komyo-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
How reliable Komyo-ji Temple is!
The sea of life and death is close,
But the light of the temple clearly tells the boundary.
Address: 5-20 Kajiyacho, Akashi, Hyogo 673-0884
Phone: 078-911-3928
Komyo-ji Temple
Address: 1 Chome-4-5 Fukui, Miki, Hyogo 673-0433
Phone: 0794-82-0781
Miki Castle Ruins
Address: 5 Uenomarucho, Miki, Hyogo 673-0432
Phone: 0794-82-2000
