Kakuta Haruo---Decoding Japan---
Friday, June 19, 2026
Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Postscript (3)=The Last Episode
"I want to share this diary with someone who mourns the late Emperor with the exact same feelings as I do," I thought. As I pondered who that might be, I realized that virtually everyone mourns him. However, I knew that if I showed it to someone who didn't think highly of me, it would cause trouble if the contents leaked to the public. On the other hand, even if someone were kind to me, it would be pointless if they lacked any influential supporters of their own to stand by us.
I found myself wishing, "If only there were someone who fit all three criteria." Then it struck me: "Only Lady Hitachi fits them perfectly." Without delay, I sent a carriage to fetch her, and just as I had hoped, she arrived at my residence with genuine ease and comfort. We then continued to talk intimately until the sun went down...
Old Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage
It is unknown when Innami County was organized in Innami County, Harima Province.
The Kuninomiyatsuko system was established in the 5th century and lasted till the end of the 6th century, when the Kori system was introduced to replace Kuninomiyatsuko. The Kori system was soon replaced by the province-and-county system in the 7th century.
The Innami County area was ruled by Akashi Kuninomiyatsuko. We can find no document mentioning Akashi Kori. Nihonshoki, the Chronicles of Japan, whose editing was finished in 720, writes about Harima no Inabi no Ooiratsume as the mother of Yamato Takeru, who could have existed in the 4th century. Her name suggests she is from Innami. The Innami area could have existed a century before the Kuninomiyatsuko system was introduced. Then, the area must have been conquered by Akashi Kuninomiyatsuko. The place name Innami was first documented in 726. Innami County was first documented in 767. All in all, Innami County could have been organized in the 8th century.
Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage has 3 resources which list the pilgrimage:
Innami Gun Shi, or the Innami County Topography, was published in 1906. When its enlarged edition was published in 1916, it listed the Innami 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. When Kyodo Shi No. 18 was published in 1952, it listed the pilgrimage, with some member temples replaced. The 36 years experienced World War II. Let me call the former the Old Innami 33 Kannon Pilgrimage and the latter one the New Innami 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.
From next time, I’m going to virtually visit the replaced member temples of the Old Innami 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. Can we find out why they have been replaced?
Thursday, June 18, 2026
Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Postscript (2)
Someone sent me this poem:
What grieving heart, what masterly hand
Could weave such profoundly moving lines?
Even as a reader, I am utterly undone,
My tears flowing far past my control.
To which I reply:
Please understand—I only wove these words
In a desperate search to find some solace,
Yet now, they turn their beauty back upon me
As unbearable sorrow whenever I look upon them.
Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #33 Jiko-ji Temple
Jiko-ji Temple was founded in 1249 by Priest Jiko, whose secular name was Minamoto Tsuneie, who was a 9th-generation descendant of Mitsunaka (912-997), the main lineage of the Seiwa Genji Clan. Tsuneie was talented since he was young and was expected to become a great general possessing both wisdom and courage. He, however, wished to dedicate himself to Buddhism. In 1233, he resolved to become a Buddhist monk, left home, shaved his head under the tutelage of Priest Choku at Jokyo-ji Temple, and changed his name to Monk Jiko.
The principal image of Jiko-ji Temple, a statue of Amidabuha, was recovered from the sea and is characterized by the absence of its right hand. The statue was not found as a whole piece. Its head and feet were recovered from various locations, with its right hand remaining missing. According to legend, the right hand was left in the sea to save fish.
Jiko-ji Temple is located at the foot of Jikoji Tumulus. Although the tumulus was named after the temple, the tumulus was built far before the temple’s foundation. Did it have something to do with Jiko’s choice of the location?
The tumulus is a circular burial mound whose burial facility is a direct burial in a stone coffin. Rows of circular and square haniwa (clay figures) were discovered. The mound is covered with revetment stones and surrounded by a moat. Various types of figurative haniwa were unearthed.
Address: 12-18 Jikojicho, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0813
Phone: 079-447-1134
Jikoji Tumulus
Address: 12-12 Jikojicho, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0813
Jokyo-ji Temple
Address: 2 Chome-20-24 Namazecho, Nishinomiya, Hyogo 669-1102
Phone: 0797-86-4626
Wednesday, June 17, 2026
Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Postscript (1)
Around the tenth of October, while at home, I find myself thinking more than ever, "If only the late Emperor were still alive," no matter what I do, see, or hear. Since people tell me, "That is the very place where he now rests," even though I cannot see his living form, I go to visit Koryu-ji Temple.
The treetops there are already completely ablaze with autumn leaves. The foliage seems far more vibrant in color than that anywhere else. Perhaps the crimson tears I shed, longing for the days gone by, have stained the leaves, making their color appear exceptionally deep.
When I reach the gravesite, the pampas grass, pale and withered, seems to beckon me with its hands. Given the location, its faded state is far more poignant than when it was in full bloom.
"During his lifetime, so many men and women served him, each vying for his attention. But now, at the foot of this remote mountain, not a single person who once served him personally remains. He stands alone, beckoning people to him through the grass, yet no one stops to visit," I think, and I can barely stop my tears. Even the tomb is blurred by my tears, and I cannot bear to look at it.
The pampas grass beckons,
Yet no one stops to turn aside.
He who once ruled the world
Has vanished into a wisp of smoke.
Does it beckon because it knows
The sorrow deep within my heart?
As I venture in search
Of his vanished traces.
Just hearing about the pampas grass
Standing at the tomb of the late emperor
Fills one with sorrow;
Imagine, then, how I must feel, standing here before it.
Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #32 Shinpuku-ji Temple
The origins of Shinpuku-ji Temple in Uozaki-shinmura (Innami County, Harima Province) remain shrouded in mystery. The village was established as salt pans in 1604 by Rokuzaemon of Arai Village. Originally settled by his family and known as Arai-shinmura, it was officially recognized as a village by the Himeji Domain and renamed Uozaki-shinmura in 1625.
Records are silent regarding when Shinpuku-ji was abolished or where it stood. Uozaki-shinmura encompassed the modern-day area of Umei (Takasago, Hyogo) and its surroundings. Given that Umei is already home to Zengyo-ji—a Pure Land Buddhist temple founded in the early Edo period—it is possible that Shinpuku-ji served as a jingu-ji (shrine-temple). If so, it likely faced abolition following the Shinbutsu Bunri (Gods and Buddhas Separation Order) of 1868.
Since most shrines in the village were managed by Sone Tenman Shrine, the former site of the temple was likely repurposed for communal or ritual use. My hypothesis is that the temple became just Kannon-do Hall, relocated to its present place.
Zengyo-ji Temple
Address: 4 Chome-20-3 Umei, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0074
Phone: 079-447-3710
Sone Tenman Shrine
Address: 2299-1 Sonecho, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0082
Phone: 079-447-0645
Kannon-do Hall
Address: 5-5 Araicho Nakamachi, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0007
Tuesday, June 16, 2026
Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Conclusion
Those who read this diary will probably speak ill of me, saying, "For a mere lady-in-waiting, she is far too presumptuous, acting as if she knows everything; how hateful!" However, even such matters of Buddhist teachings were what the late Emperor constantly spoke of and graciously imparted to us during our rambling morning and evening conversations. Therefore, I have written down the facts exactly as I remember them.
Please, do not speak ill of me. Those who do not mourn the late Emperor have no need to read this. I simply feel that I could never forget the precious, deeply moving, and gentle nature of his heart. Thus, I could not help but write these memories down.
As this year draws to a close,
While my grief remains unchanged,
The days since I parted from my Lord
Will only feel more distant.
Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #31 Saiko-ji Temple
Saiko-ji Temple was founded in today's Ihozaki, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0076, in 1275 by Kawagoe Nobuyoshi, whose Buddhist name was Yuko. Nobuyoshi used to be a samurai steward in Iyo Province. His ancestors were the Kawagoe Family, who were based in Kawagoe-kan, which was a fortified residence in Musashi Province. Due to their military achievements, some family members were dispatched to Western provinces as samurai stewards of manors there.
Anyway, Nobuyoshi harbored a desire to become a Buddhist monk, traveled to Harima Province, became a disciple of Priest Jiko, the founder of Jiko-ji Temple, and founded Saiko-ji Temple.
The 22nd head priest of Saiko-ji Temple, Jinko, entered Jiko-ji Temple from Onomichi, Hiroshima Prefecture, and later became the chief priest of Saiko-ji Temple.
It is unknown when, why and how Saiko-ji Temple moved to its present place.
Address: 460 Yonedacho, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0805
Phone: 079-432-6584
Ruins of Kawagoe Family's Residence
Address: 194 Uwado, Kawagoe, Saitama 350-0816
Phone: 049-224-6097
Jiko-ji Temple
Address: 12-18 Jikojicho, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0813
Phone: 079-447-1134
Monday, June 15, 2026
Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Memories of the Imperial Palace (13)
As it is the end of December, the Retired Emperor orders us to prepare the celebratory meal for New Year's Day. While everyone is busy with preparations, all I can think about is how much further away the deceased becomes with the passing year.
On New Year's Eve, as I pass by the Horikawa-in Residence on my way to the palace, Nijo-oji Street and Horikawa-dori Street are eerily quiet, completely without any sign of bustling crowds. My eyes remain fixed upon the mansion, and I even recall an old poem Tachibana Nagayasu (988–1051) composed:
Though left without answer,
Their master has gone;
Yet the faded glory of the mansion
Speaks of a loneliness far beyond words.
Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #30 Fukuden-ji Temple
Fukuden-ji Temple was located in today's Tomosawa Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0035. Tomosawa Village was first listed in the Keicho Kuni-ezu, or the Keicho Maps of the Provinces, which was based on the land survey of the feudal lords' territories and the lands of temples and shrines across Japan conducted in September, 1605.
Today, the Tomosawa area has only Jugan-ji Temple as a Buddhist temple. Fukuden-ji Temple might have been abolished due to the movement to abolish Buddhism and to destroy Buddhist images at the beginning of the Meiji Period.
The Tomosawa area has Hachiman Shrine, and Tomozawa Community Center is adjoins the shrine. Presumably, Fukuden-ji Temple was the shrine temple of Hachiman Shrine, was abolished after the Meiji Restoration Government issued the Gods and Buddhas Separation Order in 1868, and its site became the community center.
Jugan-ji Temple
Address: Tomosawa-283-1 Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0035
Phone: 079-424-4763
Hachiman Shrine
Address: Tomosawa-330 Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0035
Shingonshujizoson
Address: 362-3 Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0035
Tomosawa Community Center
Address: 330 Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0035
Sunday, June 14, 2026
Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Memories of the Imperial Palace (12)
The next morning, with the vivid impressions of the previous night still lingering in my mind, my thoughts immediately turn to the late Emperor. I write to Taira Chushi (1037–1109), knowing she will understand my feelings, as she is always in my thoughts.
My poem:
Gazing upon the splendid ceremonies
Of the Five Festivals,
How deeply I long for the late Emperor,
Whom I served for so many years.
Chushi’s reply:
Just hearing of those splendid ceremonies
Of the Five Festivals is wonderful.
Now a stranger to the palace,
My sleeves are utterly drenched.
Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #29 Jifuku-ji Temple
It is unknown when Jifuku-ji Temple was founded in Inaya Village, Innami County, Harima Province. It has been abolished and it is unknown where it was exactly located.
The Inaya area has Otoshi Shrine, whose foundation date is unknown. It enshrines Toshigami.
Toshigami is the deity of abundant harvests, specifically associated with rice and other grains. While Toshigami appears in the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters), this deity is notably absent from the Nihon Shoki (The Chronicles of Japan), which was completed in 720 with a stronger focus on legitimizing the imperial lineage. This exclusion suggests that as the central government established a formal Shinto hierarchy, certain local or folk deities like Toshigami were overlooked or marginalized in favor of the state-sanctioned mythological framework.
Anyway, as the temple name Jifuku means Land Fortune, Jifuku-ji Temple could have been a shrine temple of Inaya Otoshi Shrine. If so, the temple might have been abolished after the Meiji Restoration Government issued the Gods and Buddhas Separation Order in 1868
For your information, Otoshi's son was Mitoshi, and Mitoshi's sons were Wakatoshi and Kukutoshi.
Inaya Otoshi Shrine
Address: Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0034
Saturday, June 13, 2026
Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #28 Fukuden-ji Temple
Fukuden-ji Temple is said to have been founded in 606 by Prince Shotoku (574-622). During the Southern and Northern Courts Period (1337-1392) and the Muromachi Period (1336-1573), it received the patronage of the Akamatsu Clan, and it is believed that Akamatsu Norimura (1277-1350) and Akamatsu Masanori (1455-1496) built and renovated the temple buildings.
It was destroyed by fire during the Warring States Period (1467-1573), and was converted to the Caodong Chan Sect sometime between 1592 and 1596.
The place name Inaya means Rice Warehouse and the temple name Fukuden means Fortune Fields. The names suggest what it looked like around the area in ancient times, when the temple was founded. In the medieval days, the Inaya Fortress was built in the grounds of Fukuden-ji Temple.
Address: Inaya-607 Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0034
Phone: 079-422-5848
Inaya Fortress Site
Address: Inaya-584-1 Kakogawacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0034
