Trees In the Town

 

Hachi-miya Meguri: The Pilgrimage to the Eight Shrines of Kobe

 

The "Hachi-miya Meguri" is a traditional pilgrimage to eight shrines (Ichinomiya through Hachinomiya) that serve as branches of the historic Ikuta Shrine. Local belief holds that visiting these shrines in ascending order—from the First to the Eighth—will effectively ward off misfortune and drive away bad luck.

A Personal Journey: Walking the Eight Shrines

While tradition suggests an ascending order, I chose a different path based on geography, visiting them in the order of 7, 8, 6, 5, 4, 1, 2, and finally 3.

My journey began at Shichinomiya (the 7th), located at the western edge near Shinkaichi Station. Though the area is now flat and urban, Edo-period maps reveal that this shrine once stood remarkably close to the shoreline. From there, I moved toward the Eighth and Sixth Shrines, which share a single precinct today. These two felt the most weathered and ancient of the group.

The trek became physically demanding as I climbed the steep hills along the Uji River to reach Gonomiya (the 5th). The reward was a stunning vista of the Kobe Port Tower and the shimmering waterfront. Descending through the Kitano district—crowded with tourists—I eventually reached the First Shrine at the end of Pearl Street.

My pilgrimage concluded at Sannomiya (the 3rd), the busiest of all, located in the heart of Kobe’s thriving commercial district. After a long day of "strolling and staggering" through the city, I boarded the train back to Osaka, exhausted but fulfilled.

Traveler’s Tip: For those prioritizing physical ease, I recommend the sequence: 2 → 1 → 4 → 5 → 8/6 → 7, using the subway or municipal buses (Routes 7 and 96) to save your legs on the steeper climbs.

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The Big Dipper and the Flight of the Gods

The arrangement of these shrines is shrouded in celestial mystery. It is said that the First through Fourth Shrines form the "bowl" of the Big Dipper, with Ikuta Shrine at its center, while the remaining four form the "handle."

Over centuries, however, this pattern has shifted. Gonomiya was moved to higher ground to escape the flooding of the Uji River, and Shichinomiya moved toward the coast during Taira no Kiyomori’s harbor expansion. Interestingly, the pairing of the Sixth and Eighth Shrines mirrors the binary stars Mizar and Alcor in the Big Dipper’s handle—a fascinating coincidence, believe it or not.

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Myth, Legend, and Geopolitics

The origins of these shrines can be interpreted through two distinct lenses: the romantic-mythical and the socio-political.

The Mythical Origins: According to legend, when the gods Amaterasu and Susano-o took their sacred vows, they gave birth to three goddesses and five gods. These eight deities are the enshrined guardians of the Hachi-miya shrines.

The Legend of Empress Jingu (Okinagatarashi): A more political interpretation links the shrines to the expedition of Empress Jingu. Historical records, such as Korea’s Samguk Sagi, detail centuries of naval conflict and "piracy" between the Japanese Wa and the Kingdom of Silla.

Whether as an invasion or a "homecoming" to her ancestral roots in the peninsula, the Empress relied heavily on the seafaring people of the Osaka Bay coast. On her return, her fleet was reportedly slowed by local demands for a share of the spoils. To navigate these social and economic tensions, she made offerings and designated these eight sites as branch shrines of Ikuta, honoring the local clans who built her warships and navigated her through the Akashi Channel.

The Mystery of Shichinomiya

A curious anomaly remains at Shichinomiya (the 7th). While it should enshrine the god Ikutsuhikone to complete the set of eight siblings, it instead enshrines Onamuchi.

This change likely reflects the influence of the Kitakaze family, a powerful local clan with a millennium-long history in Hyogo Port. Having served various authorities—from the Fujiwara and Taira clans to the Southern Court—the family may have replaced the original deity with the "VIP" god Onamuchi to solidify their own prestige. This historical substitution hints at the complex layers of power, bloodlines, and religious authority that define Kobe’s sacred geography.

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Trees In the Town

 

Virtual Miki County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #22 Sho-Kanzeon-do Hall

 

     It is unknown when Juryo-zan Seiun-ji Temple was founded in Higashibata Village, Miki County, Harima Province.  When the Keicho Kuni-ezu, or the Keicho Maps of the Provinces, was drawn in the 17th century, the village name might have been pronounced Higashihayata.

     Higashihayata or Higashihata Village was part of the Himeji Domain at the beginning of the Edo Period, but became part of the Akashi Domain after 1617.  After 1679, the village was directly ruled by the Tokugawa Shogunate.

     In 1872, 36 villages out of 2 towns and 124 villages in Miki County were integrated with each other to form 14 villages, but Higashihata Village kept being independent and was renamed Higashida Village, which couldn't support a Buddhist temple any longer.  It is unknown when Seiun-ji Temple was abolished with its Kannon-do Hall left.

Address: 262 Yokawacho Higashida, Miki, Hyogo 673-1236

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Virtual Miki County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #21 Saiko-ji Temple

 

     The Fujita Family was based in Bishamon Fortress in the upper reaches of the Mino River.  Their branch built Arakawa Fortress along its tributary stream, which might have been called Ara River.  When Noborinosuke was the head of the branch, he built a hall to enshrine his personal guardian Buddhist image at the foot of the fortress.  After the Siege of Miki from 1578 to 1580, the fortress was abolished and they founded Saiko-ji Temple to pray for the comfort of those who were killed in the war.

     In 1694, Priest Yushun rebuilt the hall as Kannon-do Hall, and Saiko-ji Temple was established as the principal temple in the area.  In 1728, more halls were built, and Yushun became the first head priest.  The second head priest, Eishun, built a memorial hall.

     The halls were repeatedly rebuilt due to fires and other disasters.  During the time of the 13th head priest, the temple buildings were completely destroyed by Typhoon No. 23 in 1965.  The priest and the supporting members of the temple were allowed to move the Buddhist building which had been built by Kobayashi Chobei (1872-1943), the first president of Kobe Electric Railway, in Suzurandai, Kita Ward, Kobe, in 1940.  The dedication ceremony was held in 1968.

Address: 168 Yokawacho Kamiarakawa, Miki, Hyogo 673-1111

Phone: 0794-72-0540

Bishamon Fortress Site

Address: 547 Yokawacho Bishamon, Miki, Hyogo 673-1233

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Virtual Miki County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #20 Torin-ji Temple

 

     It is unknown when Torin-ji Temple was founded in Yamaguchi Shinden Village, which has Inari Shrine, whose main hall was built in 1546.  The village was developed in the 1660's by the Tokugawa Shogunate, so the shrine and the temple must have been founded over a century before the development of rice fields in the area.  The shrine is said to have enshrined Kangiten or Nandikeshvara.

Address: Yokawacho Tomioka, Miki, Hyogo 673-1102

Phone: 0794-73-0720

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Virtual Miki County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #19 Ryuon-ji Temple

 

     It is unknown when Ryuon-ji Temple was founded in Oso Village, Miki County, Harima Province.  Oso Village in Miki County, Harima Province, adjoins Ozo Village in Arima County, Settsu Province, and the Mino River runs through the 2 villages.  Presumably, there could have been the Oso or Ozo area before the area was divided between 2 provinces after the Taika Reform from 645 to 650.  Some say the place name Oso or Ozo has something to do with slash-and-burn agriculture.

Address: 26 Yokawacho Ooso, Miki, Hyogo 673-1115

Phone: 0794-72-0901

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Virtual Miki County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #18 Toryu-ji Temple

 

     It is unknown when Toryu-ji Temple was founded in today's Yokawacho Ooso, Miki, Hyogo.  Its Kannon-do Hall was rebuilt in 1704 by Hibara Daiku, literally Hibara Carpenters, according to a plate the hall had.  So, the temple's foundation must be older than that.

     The beginning of the Hibara Family Genealogy describes their ancestors.  "Our ancestor, Fujiwara Masakiyo, came to Japan from Tang China during the reign (770-781) of Emperor Takatsugi (708-782).  Masakiyo first lived in Kasuga-ri Village, Soekami County, Yamato Province.  He was appointed head carpenter of the Imperial Palace.  Later, during the reign (781-806) of Emperor Yamabe (737-806), he moved to Yamada Village at the foot of Mount Tanjo.  His eldest son, Munetsugu, got the document and drawing of the Great Eight Heavens Pagoda of Chengyang Palace in Tang China, which were brought back by Saicho (767-822)."  The document was written by Munetsugu's greatgrandson, Moriyosh,i in March, 826.  From Munetsugu, they called their family Hibara.

     During the reign of Emperor Takatsugi, when Masakiyo came to Japan, the large temples of Nara, the then capital, held political power and likely needed skilled carpenters for their construction.  This is probably why Masakiyo was invited from Tang China.  However, during the reign of Emperor Yamabe, the emperor disliked interference from the old powers of Nara, and the capital moved to Nagaoka-kyo and then to Heian-kyo in Kyoto.  As a result, the large temples of Nara lost power, and the work for carpenters likely decreased.

     Perhaps for this reason, the second head of the family, Munetsugu, who first adopted the family name Hibara, came to Yamada at the foot of Mount Tanjo.  This was likely for the construction of Myoyo-ji Temple on the summit of the mountain.  At that time, the mountain was in Miki County, and the county's governor was Obi Hirotomi, the head of the Korean-Japanese blacksmiths.  In 789, Hirotomi donated 60,000 bundles of rice for the repair of the Kako Port.  Given his considerable wealth, he should have played a significant role in the construction of Myoyo-ji Temple.

     A document held by the Hakogi family in Yamada, Kita Ward, Kobe, states, "The ridgepole was raised on an auspicious day in April of the third year of Daido, by Tanjo carpenter Hibara."  This is 20 years after 788, so the Hibara carpenter must have referred to the third head of the Hibara Family, Munehisa.  His family continued to work at Myoyo-ji Temple for many generations afterward.  This suggests a deep connection between the Hibara carpenters and the temple.

     The master carpenter of the Toyotomi Clan was Nakai Masakichi (1533-1609), but the head of the Hibara Carpenters, Hibara Morikichi, lived in Nara, Yamato Province, and participated in the construction of the Yakushi-do Hall and the West Gate of Shitenno-ji Temple in Osaka, which were built under the supervision of Katagiri Katsumoto (1556-1615).  Later, when the main hall of Zojo-ji Temple in Edo was built, Morikichi also went to Edo to work.　

     Under the Tokugawa Shogunate, the first head carpenter of Kyoto for the shogunate was the son of Masakichi, Masakiyo (1565-1619).  Starting with the construction of Nijo Castle in 1602, he subsequently undertook major projects for the Tokugawa Shogunate, including the construction of Edo Castle, Chion-in Temple, and Nagoya Castle.  When Masakiyo became the head carpenter of the shogunate, Morikichi gave up working in Osaka and Kyoto, and settled in Osawa Village along Yokawa Valley.

     After settling in Osawa Village, Morikichi built the three-story pagoda of Shakubu-ji Temple, and the bell tower of Jodo-ji Temple.  

     The next generation, Muneie, built the main hall of Renge-ji Temple, the priest's quarters, monks' houses, bell tower, and founder's hall of Hodo-ji Temple, and the gate of Inada Wakamiya Shrine.　

     The next generation, Mitsumasa, repaired the multi-storied pagoda of Toko-ji Temple and built its bell tower, North Storehouse, Upper Storehouse, Middle Storehouse; built Main Hall of Kichijo-ji Temple; and the main hall of Horin-ji Temple.  The fourth generation, Masakatsu, built the Renge-ji Temple pagoda, the main hall and palace of Hoko-ji Temple, the Hachiman Shrine in Ogawa-shimo Village, the Goma Hall of Omiji Temple in Oshibedani, the Amida Hall of Toko-ji Temple, and the main hall of Wada-ji Temple in Taki County.  In 1728, Masakatsu of Nishi-Osawa Village rebuilt the guardian shrine of Renge-ji Temple.  According to the ridge beam inscription left by Mitsumasa, the Hibara Family claimed to belong to the Fujiwara Clan.

     It is unknown whether the Hibara Family was succeeded by bloodline or by apprenticeship, but the family produced many branch families and apprentices.  They are collectively called the Hibara Carpenters.

     The descendants of the Hibara Carpenters, who lived in Ogawa-Osawa for generations, now live in Takarazuka.  Ancient documents such as the Hibara Family Genealogy were discovered in the descendants' home in 1934, and were reported in the newspapers.

      Many records of carpenters named Hibara exist in the Ex-Harima Province, or the southern part of Hyogo Prefecture.  These carpenters were either apprentices of the Hibara Family, or people who falsely used the name to take advantage of the authority the family held for the people of this region.  Therefore, during the Edo Period, many shrines and temples in the areas were built by Hibara Carpenters, making the family name even more famous.

     The Kannon-do Hall of Toryu-ji Temple was rebuilt in 1704, and the ridge beam inscription lists the carpenter as Fujiwara Kogishi.  Kogishi might have been an apprentice of the Hibara Carpenters.

Mount Tanjo

Address: Yamadacho Sakamoto, Kita Ward, Kobe, Hyogo 651-1261

Sites of Tanjo Fortress and Myoyo-ji Temple

Address: 384 Yamadacho, Kita Ward, Kobe, Hyogo 651-1261

Shakubu-ji Temple

Address: 110-1 Ogocho, Kita Ward, Kobe, Hyogo 651-1621

Phone: 078-958-0822

Jodo-ji Temple

Address: 2094 Kiyotanicho, Ono, Hyogo 675-1317

Phone: 0794-62-4318

Renge-ji Temple

Address: 188 Kuchiyokawacho, Miki, Hyogo 673-0734

Phone: 0794-88-0013

Hodo-ji Temple

Address: 758 Nakakunakayasuda, Taka, Taka District, Hyogo 679-1122

Phone: 0795-32-0574

Inada Wakamiya Shrine

Address: 557 Yokawacho Inada, Miki, Hyogo 673-1231

Phone: 0794-72-0056

Toko-ji Temple

Address: 261 Yokawacho Fukuyoshi, Miki, Hyogo 673-1234

Phone: 0794-72-0315

Kichijo-ji Temple

Address: 82 Kuchiyokawacho, Miki, Hyogo 673-0752

Phone: 0794-88-0026

Horin-ji Temple

Address: 567 Hosokawacho, Miki, Hyogo 673-0703

Phone: 0794-88-2004

Trees In the Town

 

Virtual Miki County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #17 Kotaku-ji Temple

 

     It is unknown when Kotaku-ji Temple was founded in Ohata Village, Miki County, Harima Province.  The village appears in the Keicho Kuni-ezu, or the Keicho Maps of the Provinces.

     For your information, Tokugawa Ieyasu (1542-1616), the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, followed the example of the Toyotomi administration and conducted a land survey of the distribution and rice yields of the feudal lords' territories and the lands of temples and shrines across Japan in September, 1605.  He appointed Nishio Yoshitsugu (1530-1606) as magistrate in charge of Eastern Provinces and Tsuda Hidemasa (1546-1653) as magistrate in charge of Western Provinces.  The Keicho Kuni-ezu, or the Keicho Maps of the Provinces, and Gocho, or the Registers of Villages, are said to have been made based on this survey.  The maps and registers are believed to have been destroyed in fires in Edo Castle, and no original copies exist today.  The only copies that remain are those covering 11 provinces and one island, and are limited to Western Japan.  Some even argue the maps and registers did not cover the entire country, but was limited to western provinces as part of oppressive policies against the western outsiders daimyo.

     Ohata Village belonged to the Himeji Domain, but was transferred to the Akashi Domain in 1617.  The village was first written as Small Field but its notation was later changed as Big Field, presumably for good luck.

     To increase the number of its visitors, the temple opened Kangetsu-an (Kotakuji Udon Noodles) in its precincts, which serves Buddhist vegetarian food.

Address: 558 Yokawacho Ohata, Miki, Hyogo 673-1116

Phone: 0794-73-0169

Trees In the Town

 

Virtual Miki County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #16 Hoko-ji Temple

 

     Tradition says that Hoko-ji Temple was founded by Hodo in 651.  How many times have I mentioned Hodo as a founder of a certain Buddhist temple?

     According to the Wamyo Ruijusho, namely Japanese Names for Things Classified and Annotated,  which was a Japanese dictionary compiled in 938, and which lists Japanese place names from south to north, Yokawa Village was in Minagi County, Settsu Province.  In Medieval days, the village became Yokawa Manor.

     Hoko-ji Temple keeps old documents which date back to 1203 and which talks about Yokawa Manor.  Part of Yokawa Manor became modern Yokawa Village

     The temple area could have been a holy place since ancient times, but it might have been at the turn of the 13th century that the temple was actually founded.

Address: 42 Yokawacho Hokoji, Miki, Hyogo 673-1124

Phone: 0794-73-0083