Trees In the Town

 

Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Memories of the Imperial Palace (10)

 

     The next morning, just as I am thinking that the bustling night rituals—with the display of lady's robes (Uchiide) and the officers baring their shoulders (Katanugi)—are still far from over, dawn breaks. Then, a beautiful letter with lovely paper and colors arrives.

     "I am delivering this to you. When I brought it to the palace, you had already retired to your quarters, so I came here instead," the messenger says, handing it to me. I am surprised, and he adds, "It is from Lady Yamato." I take it and read:

Remembering the dancers of the Five Festivals

During the late Emperor's reign,

I miss those days all the more now

As I watch you serving in the palace today.

     I cannot help but write a reply:

I find that unforgettable past ever-present,

Even as I stay here in the palace.

Yet, the morning sun rises to wake me,

Bringing another day of service.

     No sooner have I sent this reply than everyone around me awakens, talking about the young Emperor’s visit to the Koyasu-den Palace. Hearing this, I head directly there from my own quarters.

     I do not need to write about the subsequent Daijo-e banquets here; please imagine them. Everyone is well aware of those festivities, so I shall not go into detail.

Trees In the Town

 

Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #25 Jizo-ji Temple

 

     It is unknown when Jizo-ji Temple was founded on the top of the Jizoji Tumulus in Ikejiri Village, Innami County, Harima Province.  Its precincts have an itabi dated 1281, so the temple could be as old as the itabi.  Ikejiri Village was first documented in 1532 in the document kept by Hoon-ji Temple.

     Itabi are unique religious monuments that were once prevalent in the Kanto region. Often categorized as a type of stone monument or Japanese pagoda (sotoba), an itabi typically features a flattened body with a distinctive triangular or pyramidal top. These monuments served various purposes, including grave markers, memorial pagodas, or stupas for the deceased.

     The surface of an itabi is often intricately carved with Buddhist iconography such as tengai (baldachin) decorations, flower vases, censers, and candlesticks. At its center, a Sanskrit character (Siddham) is usually inscribed within a circle above a lotus pedestal. Additionally, they may contain religious or poetic texts, the date of commemoration, zodiac signs, and details regarding the donor and their motivations. Itabi are either set directly into the ground or placed upon a stone platform.

     These monuments flourished in medieval Buddhism from the Kamakura period (1185–1333) through the early Edo period (1603–1868). While they are found throughout the Kanto region, they are generally classified into two primary types based on their material:

The Musashi Type: Carved from green schist (ao-ishi) sourced from the Chichibu district.

The Shimousa Type: Carved from black schist sourced from Mt. Tsukuba in Hitachi Province.

The tradition of itabi spread across Japan as Kanto-based samurai were dispatched to various provinces to solidify the authority of the Kamakura Shogunate.

     Some samurai might have moved from the Kanto Region to be a samurai steward in the Hei Manor and one of them could have been killed in Mongol invasions of Japan in 1281, for whom the itabi was built.

     The Jizoji Tumulus is a solitary burial mound located on the southern slope of Mt. Jizoji at the 15 meters above sea level on the western bank of the lower reaches of the Kakogawa River. As the temple was built on top of the mound, the mound's original form has been damaged.

     The mound is presumed to be circular in shape, estimated to be about 20 meters in diameter.  The burial chamber is a horizontal stone chamber opening to the south-southeast.  It is a beautifully constructed stone chamber using cut Ryuzan stone, with large stones used for the back wall and ceiling, and the side walls constructed with irregularly shaped stones. It is unknown what the grave goods inside the chamber are.  The construction period is estimated to be around the late 7th century, during the end of the Kofun Period.

     The dimensions of the stone chamber are as follows:

     Total length of stone chamber: 6.15 meters (existing)

     Burial chamber: Length 3.62-3.68 meters, width 1.785-1.925 meters, height approximately 1.90 meters

     Entrance passage: Unknown

     The entrance passage was destroyed and rebuilt in later periods, and the current passage houses a small stone Buddha. The stone material of the stone chamber is cut Ryuzan stones.  The burial chamber is rectangular in plane, with a length-to-width ratio of 2:1 (possibly 12 shaku:6 shaku in Tang Dynasty measurements).  The back wall rises almost vertically, with a single large stone reaching almost to the ceiling, on which smaller stones are piled.  The side walls are constructed from irregularly shaped stones, with the east wall being three layers high and the west wall two layers high.  Chisel marks are visible on the surface of the stones, but not in the gaps between them, suggesting that the stones were processed after they were laid.  The floor is covered with rounded pebbles about 10 centimeters in diameter, but it is unclear whether these are from the time of construction.  The ceiling consists almost of a single large stone, with the smaller one in the innermost section.

     In addition, two stone sarcophagi which were made of Ryuzan stone in medieval times, repurposed from ancient sarcophagi, remain within the grounds of Jizoji Temple. The original location of their burial mounds is unknown, but one of the stone monuments shows signs of transformation from a stone sarcophagus to an itabi to a stone Buddhist image.

Address: Ikejiri-1 Heisocho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-1233

Phone: 079-428-0620

Trees In the Town

 

Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #24 Hoon-ji Temple

 

     Hoon-ji Temple was founded by Priest Jishin in 713 at the foot of Mount Innami (near the Innamisan No. 2 Tumulus). Interestingly, this coincides exactly with Jishin’s founding of Choraku-ji Temple (#20 of the Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage). It remains a historical mystery why Jishin established two separate temples in the same year.

     If Jishin is indeed a legendary figure rather than a strictly historical one, a provocative question arises: What motivated the selection of Jishin over the more ubiquitous Hermit Hodo? Given that Hodo is credited with founding the vast majority of ancient temples across Harima Province, his name carried immense prestige and "brand power."

     Perhaps the choice of Jishin was a deliberate attempt to create a distinction. While Hodo represents a foreign, continental lineage—often linked to immigrant clans (toraijin)—Jishin appears to be a more domestic or local figure. By attributing these temples to Jishin, the founders may have been asserting a unique identity, potentially contrasting themselves with the foreign-influenced networks associated with the Hodo legend.

Address: Yamakado−466-1, Heisocho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-1221

Phone: 079-428-0045

Heinoso Shrine

Address: Yamakado-478 Heisocho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-1221

Phone: 079-428-0073

Mount Innami

Address: Yamakado Heisocho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-1221

Trees In the Town

 

Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Memories of the Imperial Palace (9)

 

     As I make my way home—even though I manage to slip away before midnight this time—I feel an inexplicable sadness. Why should I worry so much about what others think?

     When I was attending to the late Emperor, whom I had served so intimately, I used to worry whenever I had to leave the palace after dark. Whenever he noticed I was eager to head home, he would deliberately try to cause me trouble. He stubbornly refused to finish his routines promptly.

     ---It was one night when I was in a great hurry to leave. The late Emperor was visiting the Empress's palace and did not return until late into the night. I waited for his return and suggested he proceed with his nightly routines, but for some reason, he saw right through me and began to bring up my departure.

     "Yes, I must leave tonight," I replied.

     The moment he heard this, he lay down and said,

"Tonight, let's leave all the routines until after dawn. I am sleepy. Let's just go to sleep now."

Then, with a mischievous smile, he added, "If anyone sees us like this, they will surely think they've stumbled into a rather scandalous situation."

     "I will not let anyone think such a thing! Besides, my attendants and Izumi, my maid, are waiting for me. They will be troubled," I said.

     The Emperor replied:

"Izumi will be troubled? More like ‘It's me’ who's troubled! Well, whoever cares—I'm perfectly fine!"

     He lay down on the tatami mat, fixing his gaze upon me.

"Oh, what a pity. You clearly hate this, don't you? What should I do? I am just so tired, let me rest," he said.

"Please bear with me for just a little while. Oh, this is so painful!"

     He kept exaggerating his exhaustion, making a big fuss over nothing, all while laughing at me.

     Now, on my way home, I find myself reminiscing fondly about all of this.

Trees In the Town

 

Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #23 Choraku-ji Temple

 

     Shuku Village, Innami County, Harima Province, was first listed in the Keicho Kuni-ezu, or the Keicho Maps of the Provinces, which was published in 1611.  After 1653, the village was renamed Obata.  Shuku Village was either developed in the upper reaches of Hei Manor or organized within the manor, but the history of the manor itself isn’t clear. 

     Anyway, it is unknown when Choraku-ji Temple was founded either in Shuku Village or in Obata Village.  As the temple is located at the foot of Atago Shrine, the temple and the shrine had something to do with each other.

     Tradition says Heinosho Shrine was founded in 713, but it was first documented in 1275.  The Hei Manor could have been developed sometime between 713 and 1275.

     There were some Shuku Villages across Japan.  They were all along highways and functioned as stages or stage points.  Shuku Village in Innami County was along the highway between Himeji and Miki Castle.  It is unknown how important the stage was.

Address: 150-1 Heisocho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-1235

Phone: 079-428-0190

Atago Shrine

Address: Kobata-151-2 Heisocho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-1235

Trees In the Town

 

Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Memories of the Imperial Palace (8)

 

     At the palace of Princess Reishi, the young Emperor's adoptive mother, everything is prepared with even greater care than usual. In the Hosoden pavilion, the spaces between the pillars are partitioned with triple-layered woven curtains beautifully adorned with artificial chrysanthemums. The ladies-in-waiting, too, display their sleeves in stunning layers of autumn colors—chrysanthemums and maple leaves. Watching them, I am suddenly flooded with memories of the past.

     During the late Emperor's reign, we did not usually compete in such extravagance. Yet, the year before last, while observing the ladies' attire from the Upper Chamber, he thought it looked magnificent and decided to have some fun.

     "Let us have the ladies display their sleeves, regardless of their rank," he said. "But do not make it look intentional. Arrange it so it appears they just happened to be sitting there, blending into the background of the decorations."

     He then personally had the ladies seated, directing me, "You there, display yours in the first room."

     While all the other ladies had their sleeves adorned with gentian motifs, my karaginu was a distinct red. Feeling it would look terribly out of place for me alone to blend into the group, I protested, "This looks particularly unsightly!"

     To this, the late Emperor replied with a smile, "What can anyone really see from afar? It doesn't matter. No one has been officially assigned to this role, nor has anyone written any rules about it. Surely you won't stand out." He was determined to go through with his little plot, cleverly spinning an excuse so that I would not be at fault.

     As we all sat in a row with our sleeves protruding from beside the Kurodo pantry, the Emperor watched the display through a small gap in the half-shutters, thoroughly enjoying himself as he gave directions: "Push that sleeve out a little more! Pull that one back in!"

     Recalling how much he delighted in this, I cannot help but think, "How could I ever forget that sight?" and my eyes naturally drift toward the room in a daze. Just as I am thinking to myself, "Perhaps I shall stay at the palace again tonight," the Regent arrives with a message.

     "The Retired Emperor Shirakawa has instructed that two ladies-in-waiting must attend the sacred dance at the Seishodo Hall," he says. "One will be Lady Etsuko, the young Emperor's wet nurse. Could you please attend as the other?"

     Seizing upon this new duty, I think to myself that I can use the preparations for it as the perfect excuse to escape. I immediately send a message to my family: "Please send someone to fetch me at once."

     As soon as darkness falls, their carriage arrives, and I happily slip away.

Trees In the Town

 

Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #22 Anraku-ji Temple

 

     Muryoju-in Temple was founded on the top of Mount Chudoshi in 811 by Priest Shinsho (797-873), who studied under Kukai (744-835).  It was later renamed Chudo-ji Temple.

     When the Akamatsu Clan built Chudojisan Fortress in 1380, the temple was removed to its present location, at the foot of the mountain.  The temple was revived by the Kushihashi Family, transferred to Pure Land Buddhism.  The temple was renamed Anraku-ji then.

     The temple's present precincts have Juo-do Hall.  Juo literally translates to "Ten Kings." These are the ten celestial judges who reside in the realm between this world and the next. Their role is to evaluate the deceased by assessing their deeds during their earthly life.

     The first seven judges preside over the "Seven-Day" cycles. Because traditional reckoning didn't start with zero, the first trial by King Qinguang actually occurs on the 6th day after death. This is followed by King Chujiang on the 13th day, King Songdi on the 20th, King Wuguan on the 27th, King Yanmo (the famous Enma) on the 34th, King Biancheng on the 41st, and King Taishan on the 48th.

     The remaining three kings operate on a more relaxed schedule. King Pingdeng—whose name literally means "equality"—judges the dead after 99 days. Given his name, perhaps he values a healthy work-life balance! The last two are even less occupied: King Dushi oversees the trial on the first anniversary of death, and King Wudaozhuanlun concludes the process after two years.

     Only after this two-year marathon is your final destination determined among the Six Paths (Rokudo):

1. Deva: The realm of celestial beings.
2. Manushya: The human realm.
3. Asura: The realm of warlike demigods.
4. Tiryagyoni: The animal realm.
5. Preta: The realm of hungry ghosts.
6. Naraka: Hell.

     As you can see, there’s no "Heaven" in this system—just varying degrees of rebirth! (Please note that interpretations of the Six Paths may vary across different Buddhist traditions.)

Address: Saikujo-631 Shikatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0303

Phone: 079-452-0328

Chudoshisan Fortress SiteA

Address: Shiroyama Shikatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0312

Trees In the Town

 

Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Memories of the Imperial Palace (7)

 

     The long bridge, which the young Gosechi dancers would use to ascend before the Emperor, was under construction as usual, with craftsmen busily at work. Seeing the bridge being built exactly as it used to be—stretching from the steps of the Shokoden to the northeast corner door of the Seiryoden—brought back a flood of memories.

     As I stayed by the young Emperor's side until sunset, watching him gaze at the construction with innocent curiosity, my mind drifted back to that early morning when the snow fell.

     The late Emperor had still been asleep when word came that a heavy snow had fallen. In fact, having been on night duty myself, I was right there to accompany him and witness it in the early dawn. Though I have always found snow beautiful, that particular morning was breathtaking. Even the humble dwellings of commoners have their own charm in the snow, but how much more so the magnificent Imperial Palace, adorned like a realm of jewels and mirrors! If only I were a painter, I would have captured every exquisite detail to show the world.

     When the lattice shutters were pushed up, the snow lay so thick that one could hardly tell the plum branches apart from the rest. The bamboo platform in front of the Jinju Hall was bending so low under the weight that it looked ready to break. The fire pit before the Seiryoden was nearly buried, and the sky, darkened by the softly falling flakes, was a magnificent sight.

     The snow piled high along the lattice fence of the Takiguchi guardhouse was enchanting. Perhaps it was the setting, or perhaps my own heart was simply overflowing, but the Emperor’s presence seemed to radiate a brilliant light—making me feel utterly self-conscious about my own disheveled morning appearance.

     "The snow this morning invites us to gaze upon it far longer than usual," I murmured.

Amused, he replied with a gentle smile, "It always looks that way to me."

     Even now, I feel as though I can see his smiling lips right before my eyes.

     That morning, I was wearing a layered Gosechi robe with colors softly blending from yellow to crimson, topped with a crimson-dyed karaginu. The vibrant colors of my attire contrasted so beautifully against the white snow that the Emperor could not bring himself to leave, pausing instead to admire me.

     Just then, a woman's voice—likely a maid from the Takiguchi office—drifted over. Peeking out from beside the lattice fence to look at the weather, she grumbled, "Oh dear, look at this dreadful snow! What are we to do? We won’t even be able to carry our carrying-poles through this."

     Hearing this, the Emperor laughed. "Listen to that. She sounds as if a great disaster has struck. Her words have quite spoiled the beauty of the snow, haven't they?"

The memory of his laughter pierces my heart with deep sorrow.

     Yet, completely unaware of the grief in my heart, the young Emperor tugs at me.

"Give me whatever that craftsman is holding! Come on, hurry! Let me have it before he leaves. Tell him, tell him!" he pleads, turning my face toward him. His innocence is so utterly endearing that, for a moment, my profound loneliness seems to melt away.

     Taking advantage of this commotion and the gathering dusk to slip away, "Well then, I shall take my leave now," I say to those around me.

     They reply in amusement, "Oh, that is absurd! Why leave now without even watching the ceremony?"

Trees In the Town

 

Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #21 Enpuku-ji Temple

 

     Enpuku-ji Temple's foundation date isn't so clear.

     Akamatsu Mitsusuke (1381-1441) donated a Buddhist chanting hall in 1397.  At the age of 8?  Presumably, someone else built the hall for him for some reason.  As the temple name is after Mitsusuke's posthumous Buddhist name, the hall could have been turned into a Buddhist temple after his death.

     Hosokawa Yoriyuki (1329-1992) was the Regent of the Ashikaga Shogunate (1336-1573) from 1366 mainly under Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (1358-1408), who became the third Shogun in 1369 at the age of 11.  As he entered his adulthood, he wanted to decide and control everything by himself and for himself.

     As its precincts have Hokyoin Tower dated 1379, the place might have been a holy place or a graveyard before the construction of the hall.  Hokyoin Towers were made in stone in the Kamakura period (1185-1333).  It is also during this period that the towers started to be used as tombstones and cenotaphs.

     On February 29, 1379, Mitsusuke's father, Yoshinori (1358-1427), attacked Yoriyasu on Yoshimitsu's orders, and for this service, he was appointed head of the Samurai-dokoro, the Board of Retainers, in the same year.  A certain samurai might have died in fighting.  The death, however, was too early to be memorized with the hall.  What was the reason for the hall to be erected?

Address: Takahata Shikatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0304

Phone: 079-452-1054

Enpuku-ji Temple Sarcophagus

Address: Takahata-544 Shikatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0304

Enpuku-ji Temple Hokyoin Tower

Address: Takahata-544 Shikatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0304

Trees In the Town

 

Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Memories of the Imperial Palace (6)

 

     As the mid-winter seasonal events pass one after another, the time has come for the Gosechi Festival. Because this is the special Gosechi held in the year of the new Emperor’s accession, the dancers are chosen from the highest-ranking families, making it far more grand than usual. Everyone is abuzz, saying it will be a truly spectacular occasion. The ladies-in-waiting keep crowding around me, eagerly asking one question after another:

     "I simply must see the young girls on the day the new Emperor attends the sacred court dances!"

     "On the night of the Tiger, it’s tradition for the courtiers to bare their shoulders, isn't it? From which direction should I watch?"

But I have no heart to answer them.

     My mind drifts back. Was it perhaps because it was to be his very last Gosechi that the late Emperor had shown such extraordinary excitement that year? From the very night the dancers entered the palace, he had made such a delightful fuss. The night wore on late with the girls rehearsing on stage, and the next morning, the Emperor slept in much later than usual.

     Yet, upon hearing that snow had fallen, he arose. The Empress was with him at the time, and they were writing letters to their families. Attending them in their presence, we, the ladies, prepared the decorative hikage cords together and tied them to the letters. >

Now, I find myself standing again in the grand upper chambers—which currently lie empty, without a wife for the young Emperor yet. Looking around, I am flooded with memories of those intimate days we all shared here, and I feel utterly detached, with no interest whatsoever in this year's festivities.

Trees In the Town

 

Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #20 Choraku-ji Temple

 

     Choraku-ji Temple was founded at the foot of Mount Ofuji No. 3 Tumulus in 713 by Priest Jishin.

     The entry dated May 2nd, 713, in Nihon Shoki records that provincial governments were ordered to hand in reports containing the names of counties, villages, and others.  Presumably, the Harima Provincial Government recognized the existence of Choraku-ji Temple with Jishin as its priest in 713.

     As the temple's precincts have a sarcophagus, which is called Kamae-no-Sekikan, or Kamae Sarchophagus, and Argha Spring, a sacred well.  It could have been a holy place since prehistoric days.

     All the temple buildings were burned down in 1578, when the Oda Army invaded Harima Province.  The temple was revived in its present place in 1706.  Its main hall was destroyed in a typhoon in 2011.  The main hall site is still a vacant lot.

Address: Nagamuro-853-1 Shikatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0347

Phone: 079-452-2530

Ex-Choraku-ji Temple Site

Address: Nagamuro-862 Shikatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0347

Mount Ofuji No. 3 Tumulus

Address: Nagamuro Shikatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0347

Kamae Sarchophagus

Address: Nagamuro-862 Shikatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0347

Choraku-ji Temple Akai (Argha Spring; sacred well)

Address: Nagamuro-851 Shikatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0347

Trees In the Town

 

Sanuki no Suke’s Diary: Memories of the Imperial Palace (5)

 

     October 11th is the day of the purification ceremony for the Daijo-e (Great Thanksgiving Festival). People and provisions from all provinces flood into the capital, and the air is thick with final preparations.

     On the day of the actual festival, Fujiwara Nagazane arrives to style the young Emperor's hair. The Minister of the Interior rolls up the blinds of the breakfast room, while the Regent takes his seat on the threshold. Standing on the veranda is Fujiwara Akitaka, striking in his crimson court robe, efficiently directing the entire proceedings.

     As the Emperor’s hair styling is nearing completion, a court official hurries in and reports:

"The new Emperor's adoptive mother, Princess Reishi, has arrived."

The Regent calmly replies, "Understood. Proceed with the ceremony."

     Thus, the ultimate preparations are complete, and the Princess and her retinue stand waiting, arrayed in their magnificent, multi-layered robes.

Trees In the Town

 

Virtual New Innami County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #19 Kannon-ji Temple

 

     Kannon-ji Temple was founded by Priest Sochin in 1578 in the site of the main keep of Shikata Castle.

Shikata Castle's lord was the Kushihashi Family.  The family produced Mitsu (1553-1627), the wife of Kuroda Yoshitaka (1546-1604), a military strategist during the Warring States Period (1467-1573).  The castle was built in 1492 by Kushihashi Norikore (1433-1487).  In 1573, when either Kushihashi Koresada (1522-1573) or his son, Masakore (?-1578), was the lord of the castle, the castle fell to the Oda Army.

     Sochin is said to have founded Kannon-ji Temple to keep the graves of the Kushihashi Family.

     For your information, the site of the second keep is used as Shikata Elementary School, and Uenomachi Public Hall is built on the site of the west keep.

     Kannon-ji Temple belongs to Caodong Chan School but Mitsu is known as a devoted Pure Land Buddhist, while Yoshitaka and their son, Nagamasa (1568-1623), were once Christian.  Why do we still fight religious wars?

Address: Shikatamachi-720 Shikatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0321

Phone: 079-452-2370

Shikata Elementary School

Address: Shikatamachi-1050 Shikatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0321

Phone: 079-452-0066

Uenomachi Public Hall

Address: 1093 Shikatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0321

Phone: 079-452-4251