Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #5 Manpuku-ji Temple

 

     Manpuku-ji Temple was originally established in 1476.

     Akamatsu Masanori (1455–1496) had miraculously revived the Akamatsu Clan, seizing the chaos of the Onin War (1467–1477) to reclaim Harima Province in 1467. However, as the saying goes, fortune and misfortune are intertwined. Internal strife soon fractured the clan in 1478, prompting Yamana Masatoyo (1441–1499) to invade Harima Province from the San’in region. It was not until July 1488 that Masatoyo finally withdrew his forces.

     Thus, Manpuku-ji was founded during a delicate, fleeting moment of peace—a brief quiet before the next storm.

     The temple was later burned to the ground in 1579 when Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1536-1598) invaded Harima Province. The main temple complex was fully restored in 1732—once again, in a delicate time—under the patronage of Sakakibara Masasuke (1705–1732), Lord of the Himeji Domain. As Masasuke died young without a direct heir, his adopted successor, Masamine (1715-1743), hurriedly took over the family line to prevent the dissolution of the domain. It remains unknown whether Masasuke lived long enough to witness the final completion of the temple.

     Stone monuments offering insight into the area's history stand within the temple grounds and cemetery. In the cemetery lies a section dedicated to muen-botoke (souls of the deceased with no surviving relatives to tend their graves), at the center of which stands a particularly prominent memorial stone. Dedicated to a man known by the posthumous Buddhist name Issan Tokku Koji, the history behind the monument is inscribed on its back. The following account is cited from the local publication Furusato Yahata (Hometown Yahata):

     "During the Enpo era (1673–1680), a severe famine caused by a poor harvest plunged local residents into deep destitution. Tomizuka Kyuemon, the local county administrator (gundai), learned that the farmers lacked not only the rice required for tax payments but even the means for daily survival. Moved to compassion, he petitioned the domain lord—at a time when leadership of the Himeji Domain was changing frequently—to suspend rice tax collections for two years. This act of mercy deeply touched everyone from village leaders down to ordinary farmers. Tomizuka passed away in 1681. To express their lasting gratitude, local villagers erected this monument and held a grand memorial service in August, 1703, marking the 23rd anniversary of his death."

     Near the south wall of the main hall stands another memorial stone inscribed with the name Kinrin Koro Koji, officially known as the Water Transport Development Monument. Erected in 1865, it bears an inscription on the side of the marker that has rendered mostly illegible over time. It honors the development of local water transport in Shimomura, a feat detailed in Furusato Yahata:

     "During the Bunsei era (1818–1830), when Okamoto Jinnosuke served as village leader, agricultural produce such as rice and wheat was transported primarily using oxen and horses. To ease this arduous labor, Okamoto constructed a port on the west side of Shimomura and excavated a canal connecting it to a nearby stream. Harvested grain could then be loaded at this port, navigated through the winding stream into the Okawa River (Kakogawa River), and shipped directly to Takasago. From there, it was transported by sea to Shikama Port, unloaded, and delivered as tax to the Himeji Domain. In recognition of his key role in developing this water transport route, Sakai Tadamichi (1777-1837), the Lord of Himeji Domain, granted Okamoto the privilege of wearing swords."

     Located a short distance from Manpuku-ji Temple, in front of the Jizo Hall at the center of Shimomura, stands the Lotus Sutra Monument, a "One Character, One Stone" memorial featuring an individual character of the Lotus Sutra inscribed on each stone. The calligraphy for the monument was reportedly executed by the head priest of Manpuku-ji Temple at the time. During the Tempo era (1830–1843), when a nationwide famine and epidemic brought severe hardship to Shimomura, the epidemic finally subsided after this monument was erected and prayers were offered. It is said that whenever the village faced crises, such as subsequent outbreaks, villagers gathered here to offer prayers led by the head priest. Composed of approximately one thousand stones—each bearing a single sutra character—the monument was dedicated to the repose of all souls across the Three Realms of existence (Sangai).

Address: 1142 Yahatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-1203

Phone: 079-438-0402

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #4 Jofuku-ji Temple

 

     Curiously enough, in front of the temple gate stands a stone monument claiming that Joufuku-ji is the No. 4 temple of the Kako County Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. However, widely circulated lists identify it as No. 4 of the Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, placing Risho-ji Temple as No. 4 for the Saigoku route instead.

     It’s a fascinating local historical mystery.

Address: Kamisaijo-546 Yahatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-1204

Phone: 079-438-0304

Risho-ji Temple

Address: 1 Chome-9-11 Araicho Otabi, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0005

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #3 Shogan-ji Temple

 

Historical Context: Shougan-ji & Joufuku-ji (Kakogawa City)

Overview

     Located in the Naka-Saijo and Kami-Saijo areas of Yahata-cho, Kakogawa, both Shougan-ji (No. 3) and Joufuku-ji (No. 4) Temples belong to the Myoshin-ji branch of the Rinzai Zen sect. Despite being situated in close proximity on low hills surrounded by farmland, detailed historical records for both temples remain scarce.

1. Geometrical & Archaeological Clues

Strategic Elevation: During Japan’s Sengoku (Warring States) period, small raised hills overlooking farmland and the Kako River were ideal sites for local samurai (kokujin or dogo) to build fortified residences or outposts.

Sarcophagus Buddha (Sekkandobutsu): The stone Buddha carved into an ancient tomb slab found in Joufuku-ji’s cemetery points to the site being used for sacred burials or rituals during the 15th to 16th centuries.

2. Why Are Two Identical Zen Temples So Close Together?

     Rather than a modern "split," several historical scenarios explain this proximity:

Village-Based Identity: Both Naka-Saijo and Kami-Saijo Villages were listed on the Keicho Provincial Maps in 1611, Saijo Village might have splitted into Shimo-Saijo, Naka-Saijo, and Kami-Saijo (from west to east) Villages during the Warring States Period. In the Edo period, under the strict Terauke (temple registry) system, neighboring villages (Naka-Saijo vs. Kami-Saijo) were required to maintain their own official temples. Both likely registered under the influential Rinzai Myoshin-ji school.

Post-War Rebuilding: Many temples in the Harima region were destroyed during the 16th-century campaigns (e.g., Hideyoshi’s Siege of Miki). When itinerant Zen monks later restored these abandoned sites in the early Edo period, they re-established them under their own sect.

Functional Division: One site may have originally served primarily as a mortuary temple/cemetery (bodaiji), while the other functioned as a hall for prayer or retreat.

Address: 1096 Yahatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-1205

Phone: 079-438-0400

Sarcophagus Buddha (Sekkandobutsu) in Jofuku-ji Temple Cemetery

Address: Kamisaijo-546 Yahatacho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-1204

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #2 Eisho-ji Temple

 

     Eisho-ji Temple is said to have been founded in 1504 by Bessho Norisada, the lord of Miki Castle, and his younger brother Murashige, both sons of Noriharu (?-1513).

     The temple houses the Stone Coffin Buddha Image of the Amida Triad, which was created in 1343 during the Nanboku-cho (Southern and Northern Courts) period (1336–1392). Made of tuff, the image measures 167 centimeters in height and 95 centimeters in width.

     A seated image of Amida Nyorai in the jo-in (meditation) mudra is carved into the underside of a house-shaped stone coffin lid, flanked by standing images of Seishi Bosatsu and Kannon Bosatsu. The entire composition is framed by a carved outline.

     The inscription reads: "This work is dedicated to the memorial rites for the parents and the salvation of all sentient beings. October 18th, Koei 2 (1343); respectfully offered by the patron."

     The Stone Coffin Buddha Image was originally enshrined along a prefectural road, but was relocated south of the Eisho-ji Temple gate due to road widening. The central Buddha figure stands approximately 62 centimeters tall.

     Although its precise original site cannot be pinpointed, the image is thought to have been relocated merely a few dozen meters. This strongly implies that the area was already a sacred ground or burial site long before the establishment of Eisho-ji, or perhaps home to an earlier prototype of the temple.

Address: 828 Kannocho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0009

Phone: 079-438-5354

Miki Castle Ruins

Address: 5 Uenomarucho, Miki, Hyogo 673-0432

Phone: 0794-82-2000

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #1 Joko-ji Temple

 

     Joko-ji Temple was founded in 1336 by Ashikaga Takauji (1305-1358), who was forced to retreat to the west in February, 1336. He accepted the counsel of Akamatsu Norimura (1277-1350) and headed down to Kyushu.  He seized Kyoto again in June.  He honored Monk Beppo Daishu (1321-1402) as the temple’s founder. The temple flourished with a full complex of temple buildings and a three-story pagoda. It later fell into decline following a fire. It was revived during the Eisho era (1504–1521) by Akamatsu Yoshimura (?-1521) and renamed Shoko-ji. However, it burned down again in the battles during the Tensho era (1573–1592). Later, during the Eiroku era (1558–1570), a man named Juken, who is supposed to have belonged to the Kako Family, built a hall and renamed it Joko-ji.

     In 1648, the Chan master Nanshitsu (1591–1671), a descendant of the Akamatsu Clan, was invited from Keiun-ji Temple in Himeji to serve as the temple's restorer and second founder. Although the temple soon suffered another fire that destroyed its buildings, Buddhist statues, and treasures, it was rebuilt by Nanshitsu during the Manji era (1658–1661). Subsequently, during the tenure of the eleventh head priest, Kuho, a monks' hall was opened to serve as a training center for itinerant monks.

Address: Kanno-332-1 Kannocho, Kakogawa, Hyogo 675-0003

Phone: 079-438-8022

Keiun-ji Temple

Address: 10-1 Nozatokeiunjimaecho, Himeji, Hyogo 670-0813

Phone: 079-222-3918

Trees in the Town

 

Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage

  

The origins of the Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage (est. 1922) are shrouded in mystery, with no record of its founders. However, its simultaneous creation alongside the local Saigoku and Bando routes suggests a deliberate, coordinated effort. Given that the Kako Bando route had already organized the more secondary religious institutions in each area, let us see how the organizers managed to gather yet another set of 33 Kannon temples within such a small county.

I will withhold my final conclusion until I complete the entire Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. However, one fascinating observation is already clear: the Chichibu Route has preserved many more active temples than the Bando Route. Interestingly, where the Bando Route was dominated by the Pureland Sect, the Chichibu Route is centered on the Shingon, Caotong, and Linji sects, hinting at a calculated distribution of temples when these spiritual networks were established.

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #25-33

 

     The stations from #25 to #33 are missing.  They could have extended eastward along the seashore, distributed in port towns and fishers’ villages.  The industrial areas there tell us it's a waste of time to explore the traces and marks of the stations among them.  Obviously, the pilgrimage is endangered.