Kakuta Haruo---Decoding Japan---
Thursday, November 05, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #28 Jogyo-in Temple
Legend has it that the temple was originally founded on a hill along the watershed between the Kako and Ichi Rivers by Prince Shotoku (574–622). Later, the hermit Hodo—a legendary monk said to have flown from India to Japan on a cloud during the 6th or 7th century—constructed the main hall and other structures for the temple. Emperor Amanonunahara Okinomahito (?–686) bestowed the name Denpuku-ji. This succession of historical events aligns surprisingly well with the actual timeline.
While the exact date of Jogyo-in's founding remains unknown, a stone seven-story pagoda dating back to 1451 stands on the grounds, suggesting the ancient origins of the temple complex. It is believed that the original Denpuku-ji was destroyed during the civil wars of the late 16th century, and Jogyo-in later carried on its spiritual lineage, with its main hall rebuilt in 1663. After the Meiji Restoration, Denpuku-ji was disestablished even nominally.
It is believed that the original precinct of Denpuku-ji may have once occupied a significant portion of the Site of Yamashita Castle.
The Buddhist tanka poem for Jogyo-in Temple or for Denpuku-ji is:
Whatever relief a mortal heart may pray,
The Great Compassionate One turns none away.
Even souls burdened with sorrow and sin,
Are granted salvation and welcomed within.
Historical Context and Analysis
Unlike many devotional hymns that incorporate specific mountain or temple names, this goeika is remarkably generic, expressing a universal prayer to Kannon (the Bodhisattva of Compassion). Rather than being an oversight, this lack of exclusivity offers a profound clue to the temple’s turbulent history.
While a stone seven-story pagoda erected in 1451 testifies to the ancient roots of the original Denpuku-ji, the region was later devastated by endless civil wars during the late 16th century—particularly the brutal conflicts surrounding Yamashita Castle and the fall of the Bessho clan. The warfare left the surrounding three villages (Yado, Tono, and Higashi) completely desolate and ruined Denpuku-ji itself.
Following the war, Yamashita, a masterless samurai (ronin) formerly serving the Takeda clan of Kai Province, settled in the area. He consolidated the three ruined hamlets into a single village, named Yamashita Village.
By the early Edo period, when the Tokugawa Shogunate mandated the temple-danka system (terauke) to register all citizens under Buddhist temples, the main temple of Denpuku-ji had likely already ceased to function as an active institution. Instead, its sub-temple, Jogyo-in, was rebuilt in 1663 to serve as the spiritual and administrative anchor for the newly formed village. Adopting a conventional, universal goeika was a practical wisdom—it allowed the rebuilt temple to heal past political rivalries among displaced villagers while inheriting the sacred lineage of the ancient Denpuku-ji without conflict.
Address: 1394 Yamashitacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2354
Phone: 0790-46-1524
Site of Yamashita Castle
Address: 1130 Yamashitacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2354
Wednesday, November 04, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #27 Myogan-ji Temple
It is unknown when the temple was originally founded in Nishi-Shimozato Manor as a Shingon sect temple, then recorded as Myogon-ji. The manor first appeared in historical records in 1188 and was later renamed Kensaka Manor. Prior to the Edo period, the manor was divided into Higashi-Kensaka and Nishi-Kensaka Villages. In 1560, the priest Kaichu converted the temple to the Caodong Chan sect, relocated it to its present site, and renamed it Myogan-ji.
The temple's original location is believed to have been somewhere between the Kumano-shrine Tumulus (Kumano-jinja Kofun) and Bochi (the cemetery) in Higashi-Kensaka.
Myogan-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
High on Mount Kokoku, sacred and grand,
A vows for the future protects this land.
Like the timeless shine of the sun and moon,
The Buddha’s grace grants its holy boon.
Address: 519 Higashikenzakacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2346
Phone: 0790-46-0132
Bochi
Address: Higashikenzakacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2346
Kumano-shrine Burial Site
Address: 1330 Higashikenzakacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2346
Tuesday, November 03, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #26 Ichijo-ji Temple
The hermitage Hodo flew to Japan on a purple cloud from India via China and the Korean kingdom of Baekje. He discovered a sacred mountain in the shape of an eight-petaled lotus flower in Kamo County, Harima Province. He landed there, and named it "Mount Hokke," referring to the sacred mountain of the Lotus Sutra. That is believed to have been the foundation of Ichijo-ji Temple.
Ichijo-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Spring brings the blossoms, summer orange flowers light,
Autumn holds the chrysanthemums in radiant sight.
Ever blooming through the seasons, calm and grand,
The flowers of the Law adorn this sacred land.
Ichijo-ji is the 26th temple of the Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, and this poem is its official pilgrimage hymn.
When a temple belongs to multiple pilgrimage routes, its pilgrimage hymn (goeika) either remains the same across routes or is newly composed for each specific pilgrimage. This dynamic reflects the historical development of Japanese pilgrimage traditions, temple prestige, and local religious life during the Edo period.
1. Why Hymns Were Retained (The Case of Ichijo-ji)
Authority of Major Routes: Hymns from prestigious, ancient circuits like the Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage carried immense spiritual authority. The poem of Ichijo-ji was so renowned that local communities preferred to retain it rather than create a new one.
Copy Pilgrimages (Utsushi-reijo): During the Edo period, local replicas of the Saigoku circuit were established for practitioners unable to travel afar. These local routes often preserved the original hymns to recreate the spiritual merit of the grand pilgrimage locally.
2. Why New Hymns Were Composed
Different Deities and Enshrined Objects: If a temple was included in a new circuit for a different deity (such as Fudo Myoo or Jizo), a new hymn was written to praise that specific manifestation.
Regional Sequence and Local Identity: Hymns often incorporated specific station numbers or local landmarks. When local monks or literary figures organized new regional circuits, they frequently composed a fresh set of thirty-three hymns to give the local route a unified identity.
Address: 821-17 Sakamotocho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2222
Phone: 0790-48-2006
Monday, November 02, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #25 Amida-ji Temple
In 1694, Akamatsu Motonobu supported the foundation of Amida-ji Temple in Kasahara Village, Kasai County, Harima Province. The village was first documented in 1059. The Akamatsu clan used to rule the province, but no big name among them had Moto or Nobu in their 1st names. Motonobu could have belonged to a very minor branch of the clan. His ancestors could have become farmers after the collapse of the clan in the Warring States Period (1467-1568).
The temple's 3rd priest Kinmyo improved the temple buildings and documents after 1751, and finally had the temple authorized as an official Buddhist temple under the danka system. Although Kasahara Village was old, Amida-ji was the only temple in Kasahara village, which might have been under the strong influence of Ichijo-ji Temple, the next station of the Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.
Amida-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Oh, how divine! The Buddha's grace descends,
A sacred mercy that forever flows.
The vow of peace and comfort never ends,
Where Kasahara's timeless temple glows.
Address: 798 Nishikasaharacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2213
Phone: 0790-48-3006
Saturday, October 31, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #24 Kensho-ji Temple
Kensho-ji Temple, the 24th temple on the Kasai District Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, was originally established in Tawara Village, Harima Province (present-day Tawara-cho, Kasai City), belonging to Caodong Chan sect. It was founded by Unkitsu, though it remains unclear whether Unkitsu was a Buddhist priest or a lay patron. The construction of the temple culminated with the completion of its main gate in 1700.
In the 17th century, the Tokugawa Shogunate established the danka system, which made affiliation with a local Buddhist temple compulsory for all citizens. Because Kensho-ji was the only temple within Tawara Village, its founding in 1674 likely served a vital purpose for the community. By establishing their own temple rather than relying on one in a neighboring village, the villagers could maintain their independence and avoid owing obligations during inter-village conflicts.
This autonomy was particularly crucial regarding water rights. Tawara Village first appears in historical records around 1600 in documentation concerning an irrigation dispute with neighboring Abiki Village, highlighting how essential self-reliance was for the village’s survival and negotiations.
The temple in Abiki Village was Shuhen-ji, the 24th station of the Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon pilgrimage, and belongs to the Shingon sect. The village was first documented in 1322. Obviously, Kensho-ji Temple was founded to rival Shuhen-ji, or to help Tawara rival Abiki.
In 1674, however, persistent heavy rains swept across western Japan from spring through summer, triggering severe flooding known as the Enpo Floods. That September, a devastating typhoon struck Harima Province and the Seto Inland Sea coast, wiping out crops and homes. These consecutive disasters led directly to the widespread Enpo Famine of 1675.
It is unknown whether Unkitsu began establishing the temple before or during these catastrophes. Regardless, overcoming such severe hardships likely meant that fully completing the temple complex took over a quarter of a century.
Kensho-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Within the sacred garden’s calm,
The whispering pines, the temple toll,
Awaken in the seeking soul
The timeless truth of Buddha’s balm.
Address: 2605 Taharacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2114
Phone: 0790-49-0242
Friday, October 30, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #23 Shuhen-ji Temple
It is said that Shuhen-ji Temple originated in 651, when the ascetic Hodo enshrined a portion of a sutra he had transcribed onto stone and erected a hall, naming the site "Kyo-no-o" (Sutra Ridge).
Shuhen-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Before us spreads the ocean blue, behind, the mountains rise,
Across the sacred, rugged pass, beneath the boundless skies.
Upon Mt. Nyoi's tranquil height, the gentle moonlight gleams,
To guide our weary pilgrim steps with pure and holy beams.
Overlooking History: The Historical Depth of Mt. Nyoi's Pilgrimage Hymn
The pilgrimage hymn (Goeika) of Shuhen-ji Temple captures more than just an immediate physical landscape—it evokes a deep sense of Japan's ancient and medieval history.
"Before us lies the sea, and behind us stand high mountain peaks, / As we cross through the long and rugged pass."
To appreciate the true resonance of these lines, one must look at the unique geographical position of Kasai and the Harima region.
1. Ancient Arrivals: Crossing the Divide
Historically, the mountains behind Kasai formed a natural boundary between the Sea of Japan coast and the Seto Inland Sea. According to local legends, the hermit Hodo Sennin—the mythical founder of Shuhen-ji in 651—arrived from overseas via the northern coast and crossed these rugged mountains to establish sacred sites in Harima. For ancient migrants and seafaring travelers from the Korean Peninsula or the Izumo region, climbing these passes was a journey from the northern sea to a new life along the southern coast.
2. Medieval Crossroads: Conflict and Commerce
Beyond ancient myth, these mountain passes served as a vital geopolitical artery during the medieval period. During the turbulence of the Muromachi period—most notably the Kakitsu Incident of 1441—the powerful Yamana clan swept down from their base in the San'in region, crossing the watershed into Harima to challenge the Akamatsu clan. For centuries, soldiers, traders, and monks traversed these exact ridges, linking the cultural spheres of the north and south.
3. The Pilgrim’s Reflection
When pilgrims reach the summit of Mt. Nyoi and look out toward the distant sea with the mountains at their back, they stand at a historical crossroads. The bright moon shining over Shuhen-ji has illuminated countless travelers through the ages—from ancient immigrants seeking new homes to medieval warriors and peaceful pilgrims. The hymn stands as a poetic testament to the timeless human journey across the mountains of Harima.
Address: 1964 Abikicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2113
Shuhen-ji Kyo-no-o (Shuhen-ji Sutra Ridge)
Addres: 1964 Abikicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2113
Thursday, October 29, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #22 Mitsuzo-in Temple
Shuhen-ji Temple is said to have been founded by the hermit Hodo in 651. It is unclear when Mitsuzo-in, one of its sub-temples, was established.
However, the grounds of Mitsuzo-in feature the Sekikan-butsu (a stone Buddha carved into a slab from an ancient megalithic tomb), which is estimated to date from the late Kamakura period (1185–1333) to the Nanboku-cho (Southern and Northern Courts) period (1336–1392). This suggests that the temple may have been founded around that time.
Mitsuzo-in Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Upon Mt. Nyoi’s sacred peak, deep vows of grace abide,
Clear streams of Dharma logic flow down the mountain side.
Like cleansing waters pure and cool, they wash all sins away,
And all living souls shall truly thrive beneath its holy ray.
Address: 831-42 Abikicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2113
Phone: 0790-49-0558
Shuhen-ji Temple
Address: 1964 Abikicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2113
