Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #4 Kongo-in Temple

 

     Mangan-ji Temple is said to have been founded by the hermit Hodo. Although it is uncertain when the original temple declined, its sub-temple, Kongo-in, eventually succeeded its lineage.

     In a corner of the temple grounds stand the "Ichigan-do Daruma" dolls. Known as "Ichigan Daruma" (Single-Wish Daruma), they embody the blessings of "Ichigan Shugyo Daishi" (the Great Master of Single-Wish Ascetic Practice), a deity believed to grant just one wish. During the Daruma Festival held annually on the third Sunday of February, worshippers receive a doll with only one eye painted in; once their wish comes true, they paint the other eye and return the doll to the temple. The festival was established in 1989, and the collection has now grown to approximately 800 dolls.

     Daruma comes from Bodhidharma, who was a semi-legendary Buddhist monk who lived during the 5th or 6th century.  He is traditionally credited as the transmitter of Chan Buddhism to China.  A Daruma doll is a hollow, round, Japanese traditional doll modeled after Bodhidharma.

     Kongo-in Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

Upon the diamond peak, the Great Compassionate Lord shines bright,

Illuminating mountain crests with soft, celestial light.

The heart that prays to Him shines on through morning skies,

Unfading like the dawn's dawn moon before the sun's sunrise.

The Legend of Hermit Hodo and the Geopolitics of the 7th Century

A Turning Point in East Asia (642–676)

     The year 642 marked a shift toward the restructuring of East Asia, culminating in Silla’s unification of the Korean Peninsula in 676. In 642, King Uija (599–660) of Baekje invaded Silla, capturing over 40 fortresses and killing the daughter and son-in-law of Kim Chun-chu (603–661), the future King of Silla.

     Domestically, King Uija established an autocratic regime, purging political opponents to solidify his grip. This concentration of power was mirrored across the region: Yeon Gaesomun (d. 666) seized power in a coup in Goguryeo, while in Japan, Soga Emishi (586–645) and his son Iruka (d. 645) tightened their control following the death of Emperor Jomei (593–641) and the ascension of Empress Kogyoku (594–661).

The Exile’s Persona: From "Field" to "Valley"

     Just as Sakanoue no Tamuramaro (758–811) was invoked as a symbolic founder of temples in the Tohoku region, "Hermit Hodo" served a specific purpose in Eastern Harima.

     During the mid-7th century, high-ranking Baekje nobles fleeing King Uija’s purges likely sought refuge in the Japanese archipelago. Some of these exiles settled in Eastern Harima, moving from the open flat fields into the deeper valleys to reclaim the land. For these immigrant communities, Hodo—a legendary hermit said to have traveled from India through Tang China and Baekje—provided the perfect founding "persona," linking their local religious sites to a prestigious continental lineage of Buddhism.

     For your information, Hodo, who is supposed to have originally borne the Sanskrit name Dharmapatha, might have been called Puap-dauh in China, Papp-do in Korea, and Papotau or Fafatau when he arrived in Japan.

Address: 411 Kamimanganjicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2451

Phone: 0790-44-1255

The Itami Family and Hosokawa Takakuni and Oriental Melons

 1. The Itami Family and the Collapse of Takakuni

The Itami family ruled the surrounding region from their stronghold, Itami Castle. Their name first appears in historical records in 1309, during the Kamakura period (1185–1333), when Itami Chikamori served the deputy military governor (shugodai) of Settsu Province. Later, during the Nanboku-cho period (1336–1392), Itami Saemon-no-jo was recorded in 1363. On June 4, 1531, Itami Kunisuke fell in battle when Hosokawa Takakuni (1484–1531)—the 31st Kanrei (Shogunal Deputy) of the Muromachi Shogunate and 15th head of the Kyocho-Hosokawa family—was defeated by the allied forces of Hosokawa Harumoto and Miyoshi Motonaga (1501–1532).

In 1521, at the height of his power, Takakuni deposed the 10th shogun, Ashikaga Yoshitane (1466–1523), replacing him with Yoshiharu (1511–1550, the 11th shogun), son of the 8th shogun, Ashikaga Yoshizumi (1480–11511). Yet, as the saying goes, light is always accompanied by shadow. In July 1526, Takakuni’s cousin, Hosokawa Tadakata (d. 1531), fabricated allegations that Takakuni’s key retainer, Kozai Motomori (d. 1526), was in secret communication with Hosokawa Harumoto (1514–1563). Tadakata’s exact motives remain unknown, though Motomori was said to be unrefined and uneducated. Flying into a rage, Takakuni had Motomori assassinated.

This act enraged Motomori’s brothers, Hatano Motokiyo (d. 1530) and Yanagimoto Kataharu (d. 1530), who promptly rebelled in their home province of Tanba. Motokiyo fortified Yakami Castle, while Kataharu held Kannosan Castle. Stunned by the uprising, Takakuni ordered Tadakata to lay siege to Kannosan Castle, while dispatching Kawarabayashi Shurinosuke and Ikeda Danjo to Yakami Castle on October 23. Skirmishes persisted for days. On November 5, Naito Kunisada (d. 1553), lord of Yagi Castle who sympathized with the brothers, withdrew his forces from the encirclement of Kannosan Castle. On November 30, Akai Goro, lord of Kuroi Castle, struck and broke the siege. As Takakuni’s troops retreated, infighting broke out between Shurinosuke and Danjo, while Tadakata simply fled. Within six months, the political fragility of Takakuni’s regime stood fully exposed.

2. The Miyoshi Intervention and the Seesaw War

The Miyoshi family was swift to exploit this vulnerability. As if acting in concert with Motokiyo and Kataharu, Miyoshi Masanaga (1508–1549) landed at Sakai as early as December 13, seizing Hori Fortress—a stronghold situated on an island in the Yodo River, near present-day Juso Park.

Following a series of dramatic political reversals and the ongoing decline of the Muromachi Shogunate, Takakuni went into exile, wandering through Iga, Ise, Echizen, Izumo, and Bizen provinces. He eventually secured the backing of Uragami Muramune (1498–1531), a powerful warlord based at Mitsuishi Castle in Bizen. Rebuilding his strength, Takakuni and Muramune occupied Harima Province on July 27, 1530, captured Itami Castle by late February 1531, and reclaimed Kyoto on March 7. They then advanced toward Sakai in Izumi Province, the seat of Ashikaga Yoshitsuna (1511–1573)—known as the "Sakai Shogun"—who exercised a degree of shogunal authority.

A fierce, seesaw struggle ensued. On June 2, Akamatsu Harumasa (1495–1565), stationed at Okishio Castle, arrived at Kannoji Temple and was welcomed that evening by Takakuni and Muramune. However, on June 4, Harumasa unexpectedly defected to the Sakai Shogunate. Caught in a pincer attack—with Harumasa striking from the north and the Sakai forces pressing from the south—Takakuni’s army collapsed.

3. The Tragedy of Itami Kunisuke and the Downfall at Daimotsu

Itami Kunisuke lost his life in the chaotic melee. Was his sacrifice born of loyalty to Takakuni? Hardly. He was simply swept away in a self-serving struggle for survival. The Hosokawa Ryoke-ki (Chronicle of the Two Hosokawa Houses), written by Ikushima Sochiku and covering events from 1504 to 1570, captures the horror of the scene: "The river was so choked with corpses that it resembled a burial mound. People said that such a disaster was unprecedented—unheard of in the past, present, or future." Driven by ambition, Kunisuke had submitted to Takakuni, earning the honorific character "Kuni" (国) for his name, only to realize too late that he had jumped onto a sinking ship.

With his primary retainers slain, Takakuni fled the battlefield in ruin toward Amagasaki. He sought refuge at Daimotsu Castle, only to find it already occupied by Akamatsu forces. Desperate, he hid in an indigo dyeing shop called Kyoya, turning a large ceramic indigo pot upside down and crouching underneath it. On June 5, Miyoshi Kazuhide (d. 1532) arrived in search of him.

Knowing children were playing nearby, Kazuhide brought out a basket of oriental melons (makuwauri) and promised: "If you tell me where Takakuni is hiding, all of these melons are yours." Tempted by the sweet fruit, the children revealed his hiding place.

At around 4:00 a.m. on June 8, at the age of 48, Takakuni committed ritual suicide at Kotoku-ji Temple in Amagasaki. In his farewell poem (jisei), sent to Kitabatake Harutomo (1503–1563), he wrote:

The painted seas and mountains shown,

The landscapes sculpted into stone—

Even beyond the mortal space,

Shall my open eyes guard this place?

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #3 Senzan-ji Temple

 

     While the exact founding date of Senzan-ji is unknown, its history is deeply rooted in the region. If ancient enough, it originated in Arita Manor (first recorded in 1184), from which Michiyama Manor later split (first recorded in 1221). Higashi-Michiyama Village eventually formed here and was divided into Kami-Michiyama and Shimo-Michiyama before 1688.

     The temple precincts feature an Iwakura (a sacred rock where a deity resides), indicating that the location has been a place of worship since prehistoric times.

     For your information, on the opposite hill of the valley, there sits Isozaki Shrine, which is said to have been founded in the 8th century.

     Senzan-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

Walk toward Senzan-ji with a spirit pure and bright,

Unstained by muddy worldly thoughts or dark deceitful night.

Upon the sacred lotus flower's vow rely,

Where holy promise blossoms clean beneath the open sky.

Address: 116 Kamimichiyamacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2453

Isozaki Shrine

Address: 559-1 Shimomichiyamacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2454

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #2 Kokufu-ji Temple

 

     Kokufu-ji Temple was founded by Priest Myoe (1173-1232) sometime between 1190 and 1199 on the Tonohara Abandoned Temple Site.  The abandoned temple is believed to have been founded sometime between in the latter half of the 7th century and the beginning of the 8th century.  The temple is supposed to have had the Horyuji style temple buildings.  It is unknown why the Temple was abandoned but, judging from the foundation date of Kokufu-ji Temple, the abandoned temple could have been involved in the Genpei War (1180–1185), which resulted in the establishment of the Kamakura Shogunate.

     Kokufu-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

How blessed we are! The Buddha shines with lapis blue,

Whose radiant light brings comfort, pure and true.

With twelve great vows to save all souls from grief,

His everlasting mercy offers clear relief.

Address: 37 Tonoharacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2445

Phone: 0790-44-1086

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #1 Rakuho-ji Temple

 

     Josho-ji Temple was originally founded by Akamatsu Tameshige in Michiyama Village, Kasai County, Harima Province.  The village is now Ouchi-cho, Kasai City.  Based on the hereditary character, the element 'tame' in Tameshige's name is believed to derive from Tamesuke, the uncle of Ienori, the founder of the Akamatsu Clan. This strongly suggests that Tameshige belonged to an early branch or minor offshoot of the clan.  Accordingly, the temple's sango was Akamatsu-san.

     The temple was also known as Kiyomizu-dera because Tameshige recovered from an illness after praying to the copied Eleven-Faced Ekadasamukha image of Kiyomizu-dera Temple.

     Although the temple was later renamed Zensho-ji, it subsequently fell into decline due to the ravages of war and other factors.

     In 1652, Zensho-ji Temple was relocated to Yokoo Village, its current site. The principal image of Shakyamuni Buddha was enshrined, and Zenshitsu Senkaku, the 14th head priest of Keifuku-ji in Himeji, was invited to preside over the temple. At this time, the sect was changed from Tiantai to Caodong, and the temple was renamed Rakuho-ji.

     Why did it take about half a century for the temple to be revived?  In the middle of the 17th century, the danka system was established by the Tokugawa Shogunate.  Under the system, the shogunate made the affiliation with an official Buddhist temple compulsory to all citizens.  The system might have been a help for the revival of the temple.

     The former main hall was constructed in 1713, and was rebuilt in 2000.  Curiously, the temple enshrines Arya Avalokitesvara, who is the human-figure prototype of the other 6 metamorphoses, but not Eleven-Faced Ekadasamukha, who is enshrined in Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto.

     The temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

What joy can ever match this sacred way?

Where dharma's light guides every step each day.

The gentle wind that blows through ancient pine

Echoes the Buddha's voice, a phrase divine.

Address: 3 Hojocho Yokoo, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2311

Phone: 0790-42-0293

Kiyomizu-dera Temple

Address: 1 Chome-294 Kiyomizu, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0862

Phone: 075-551-1234

Keifuku-ji Temple

Address: 7-1 Keifukujimae, Himeji, Hyogo 670-0027 

Phone: 079-292-4807

Trees in the Town

 

Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage

 

     In the prehistoric days of Japan, the country was unified by organizing Kuninomiyatsuko in remote areas.  Harima Kuninomiyatsuko, Harima-Kamo Kuninomiyatsuko, and Akashi Kuninomiyatsuko ruled today’s Southern part of Hyogo Prefecture.  Later, Emperor Karu (596-654) introduced the County system.  Harima-Kamo Kuninomiyatsuko was transformed into Kamo County under Harima Province.  The county is supposed to have been divided into Kato and Kasai Counties in the 11th century.  Kato means Kamo-East and Kasai Kamo-West.

     It is unknown when Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage was organized in the county.

It might have been in the late 17th century that the Kasai 33 Kannon Pilgrimage was established through the convergence of two key interests: the survival needs of local temples and the economic motives of the townspeople in Hojo.

The Urgent Need of Local Temples (Securing Reconstruction and Maintenance Funds)

     Many temples and village chapels throughout Kasai County were devastated during the conflicts of the Warring States period (1467-1568), such as the Battle of Miki from 1578 to 1580. Entering the Edo period (1603-1867), they continued to suffer from a severe lack of reconstruction funds. Unable to rely on large-scale financial backing from the Shogunate or feudal lords, the district's temples united to create the "33 Kannon Pilgrimage" package. This established a self-sustaining maintenance mechanism, generating a continuous year-round stream of money from offertory coins, temple stamp fees, and donations collected during public unveilings of sacred statues.

The Economic Motives of the Hojo Townspeople (Attracting Visitors to a Commercial Hub)

     As a merchant town and the administrative center of Kasai County, Hojo lacked a permanent population of samurai consumers to sustain its economy—a vulnerability heightened by the region's fragmented political structure, split into Shogunal demesne and minor fiefs (aikyū) without a single unifying samurai stronghold. Consequently, the town needed events that could draw visitors from neighboring areas, such as the Himeji castle town, to stimulate local spending. By establishing a unified week-long festival starting on March 12, the merchants capitalized on the influx of pilgrims arriving at the final destination, Sagami-ji Temple. Providing lodging, meals, souvenirs, and daily goods to these visitors delivered a substantial economic boost to the entire town.

Trees in the Town

 

The Three Kannon Pilgrimages in Kako District

I have virtually walked up all the 3 pilgrimages in Kako District: the Kako County Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, the Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, and the Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.  Looking back at them, I realize that they are composed of 4 types of tiers of temples and halls and that the distribution of the 4 tiers among the 3 pilgrimages are significantly different.  What the differences imply is waiting to be analyzed.

Contextual Explanation of the Tiers (for reference or inclusion):

Tier 1 (Ancient Origins): Temples belonging to sects founded in the ancient period, such as Shingon and Tendai Buddhism, which historically served as longstanding regional bases and prayer temples.

Tier 2 (Medieval Origins): Zen temples (such as Rinzai and Soto) established in the medieval period under the patronage of the warrior class (bushi) and local lords.

Tier 3 (Early Modern / Edo Period Origins): Sects like Pure Land (Jodo-shu) that flourished in the early modern period, strongly backed by the status of Pure Land Buddhism as the faith of the Tokugawa shogunal family.

Tier 4 (Unaccredited Chapels / Shodo): Local roadside or village chapels lacking official temple status and state/domain recognition from the Edo period, making their management and preservation inherently fragile.

Kako County Saigoku 33 Pilgrimage

Composed mostly (~90%) of established, officially recognized temples spanning the ancient, medieval, and early modern periods (Tiers 1–3). Thanks to this solid institutional foundation, the route has been stably maintained up to the present day.

Kako County Bando 33 Pilgrimage

Failed to secure sufficient participation from established temples (Tiers 1–3) and relied too heavily on unaccredited local chapels (Tier 4). Lacking a firm organizational base, it proved unable to withstand the rapid modernization of the Taisho era and vanished within a few decades.

Kako County Chichibu 33 Pilgrimage

Anchored primarily by medieval Zen temples (Tier 2) but also incorporating smaller, unaccredited chapels (shodo, Tier 4). This mixed makeup resulted in a moderate level of survival over time.

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #33 Koon-ji Temple

 

     Tradition holds that Koon-ji Temple was founded by the legendary Hermit Hodo during the Hakuchi era (650–655).

     This period coincided with a major geopolitical realignment across East Asia, which ultimately culminated in Silla’s unification of the Korean Peninsula in 676. In 642, King Uija (599–660) of Baekje invaded Silla, capturing over 40 fortresses and killing the daughter and son-in-law of Kim Chun-chu (603–661), the future King of Silla. Domestically, King Uija established an autocratic regime, purging political opponents to solidify his grip on power. This rapid concentration of authority echoed across the region: Yeon Gaesomun (d. 666) seized power in a coup in Goguryeo, while in Japan, Soga Emishi (586–645) and his son Iruka (?-645) tightened their control following the death of Emperor Jomei (593–641) and the ascension of Empress Kogyoku (594–661).

     Just as Sakanoue Tamuramaro (758–811) was later invoked as the symbolic founder of various temples in the Tohoku region, "Hermit Hodo" served a distinct historiographical purpose in Eastern Harima. During the mid-7th century, high-ranking Baekje nobles fleeing King Uija’s purges likely sought refuge in the Japanese archipelago, with some settling in Eastern Harima. For these immigrant communities, Hodo, a legendary monk said to have traveled from India through Tang China and Baekje, provided an ideal origin figure. Attributing their local sites to him allowed these communities to link their temples to a prestigious continental Buddhist lineage. (Hodo, whose original Sanskrit name is reconstructed as Dharmapatha, may have been known as Puap-dauh in China, Papp-do in Korea, and Papotau or Fafatau upon his arrival in Japan.)

     Koon-ji Temple was revived by Priest Nyorin in 1355, at which time a hall from nearby Houn-ji Temple was reportedly relocated and integrated into the complex. In 1380, Akamatsu Yoshinori (1358-1427) donated land to the temple, initiating an era of great prosperity in which as many as 32 sub-temples lined the grounds. Although these structures were burned down during the Siege of Miki in 1578, the temple was subsequently rebuilt.

     Today, Koon-ji serves as the 24th station on the Harima Province 33 Kannon Pilgrimage and the final 33rd station on the Kako County Chichibu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. Minor regional pilgrimages often placed prominent, established temples at the end of their routes, a deliberate strategy designed to boost overall pilgrim participation.

Address: 851 Nodera, Inami, Kako District, Hyogo 675-1104

Phone: 079-495-0027