Kakuta Haruo---Decoding Japan---
Monday, October 19, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #12 Soju-ji Temple
It is unknown when Soju-ji Temple was founded on a hill in Tamano Village, Kasai County, Harima Province. The village was first documented in 1371, aside from the legend that Emperors Oke and Woke buried their lover, Nehime, in the field when they were still spending their fugitive lives.
According to Nihonshoki, the Chronicles of Japan, whose editing was finished in 720, Prince Woke and his older brother, Prince Oke, sought refuge in Shijimi Village after their father, Ichinohe Oshiha, was killed by his cousin, Emperor Ohatsuse Wakatake (418-479). Woke later became the 23rd Emperor, and Oke the 24th.
Nehime is believed to have been buried in the Tamaoka Burial Mound.
The temple was relocated to its present place sometime between 1504 and 1521.
Soju-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
To the Merciful One I pray and plead,
O Kannon, hear my heart's deep need.
Guide my soul with your loving grace,
Through this life to a sacred place.
Address: 433 Tamanocho, Kasai, Hyogo 679-0107
Phone: 0790-47-0007
Tamaoka Burial Mound
Address: Tamaokacho, Kasai, Hyogo 679-0109
Phone: 0790-43-1803
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #11 Kofuku-ji Temple
Ozaki-san Kofuku-ji Temple is said to have been founded in Ozaki, Taka Manor, which used to cover some part of today's Kato, Nishiwaki, and Kasai Cities, in 1325 by Priest Jitsujo of Renjo-in Temple, a sub-temple of Horai-san Fuko-ji Temple.
Emperor Go-Daigo (1288-1339) had plans to overthrow the Kamakura shogunate and they were discovered in 1324, and his close associate Hino Suketomo (1290-1332) was exiled to Sado Island in 1325. In other words, the shogunate was wavering when Kofuku-ji Temple was founded.
Priest Bun'ei (?-1703) moved the temple to its present location.
Kofuku-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
How sacred is this place, how sublime,
Leaving holy footprints through the four paths of time;
A joyful vow that shines so bright,
To lead us gently into the Dharma's light.
Address: 1460 Befucho, Kasai, Hyogo 679-0103
Phone: 0790-47-0133
Fuko-ji Temple
Address: 1449 Kouchicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2421
Phone: 0790-45-0056
Saturday, October 17, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #10 Okusan-ji Temple
Okusan-ji Temple is said to have been founded in 651 by the ascetic hermit Hodo. Located near the borders of present-day Nishiwaki City to the north and Kato City to the east, the temple historically drew worshippers from across neighboring counties. Although destroyed by fire in 1601, it was rebuilt in 1607. Following extensive repairs to the Main Hall and other structures in 1687, the complex underwent further reconstructions and renovations to reach its present state.
Among the temple's structures designated as Prefectural Important Tangible Cultural Properties, the oldest is the Main Hall, constructed in 1687 by the master carpenter Kanda Sakuzaemon. The skill of Kanda—a prominent local shrine and temple carpenter (miyadaiku)—is evident in unique architectural details, such as eaves pillars integrated directly into the structural framework, bat-shaped hana-hijiki (flowering bracket arms), and koryo (cambered tie-beams) featuring designs tailored to their precise location.
The shikidai (formal step-up entrance), the Jizo-in Guest Hall, and the kuri (monk's living quarters)—which features a scenic rear pond—share distinct architectural elements with Mount Koya’s Kongosanmai-in Temple. Together with the Shisoku-mon (four-legged gate) of the Taishi-do Hall and the earthen storehouse, the complex reflects the prestige of a high-ranking Edo-period (1603–1867) sub-temple. While the surviving buildings date from the Edo period or later, the temple's spatial layout—stretching from the ro-mon (two-story gate) at the base of the mountain to the taho-to (two-story pagoda) on higher ground—skillfully adapts to the natural terrain, preserving the authentic atmosphere of a medieval mountain temple.
Okusan-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
From deep within the mountain, waters flow,
And on the forest stream they softly glow.
Through leafy boughs the moonbeams gently glide,
To clear the dark and shine on every side.
Address: 15 Kunimasacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2401
Phone: 0790-45-0049
Friday, October 16, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #9 Myoko-ji Temple
It is unknown when Myoko-ji Temple was founded in Nishi-Nono Village, but the temple is supposed to have been founded at the beginning of the 14th century, judging from the stone monuments in and around the temple. The village was once owned by Prince Yoshihito (?-1415), and was listed in the Keicho Kuni-ezu, the map published in 1611.
Myoko-ji Temple's Buddhist tanka poem is:
Upon the circular mountain peak, a vibrant light ascends,
A radiant beacon glowing bright as sacred day begins.
In this illumination pure, true mercy softly gleams,
A blessing from the Buddha’s heart that answers all our dreams.
Address: 277 Nishinonocho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2426
Phone: 0790-45-0158
Thursday, October 15, 2026
Anju and Zushio
Iwaki Masauji, the Governor of 56 counties in Mutsu and Dewa Provinces, was exiled to Tsukushi Province due to false accusations. Masauji's wife and their two children, Anju and Zushio, were left behind in Dewa Province and fell on hard times. They decided to travel to Tsukushi Province to reunite with Masauji. When they arrived at Naoetsu in Echigo Province, however, they were captured by Yamaoka Tayu, a human trafficker. Masauji’s wife was sold to Sado Jiro on Sado Island, while his daughter and son were sold to Sansho Tayu, the head of Yuraminato in Tango Province and a salt manufacturer. Under Sansho Tayu, Anju and Zushio were ruthlessly exploited and abused. Zushio was forced to gather three loads of firewood a day, and Anju was forced to draw three loads of seawater a day. Zushio wept over his sickle as he cut wood, and Anju wept over her bucket as she drew the brine.
One day, Anju and Zushio attempted to escape secretly together, but they were caught. As punishment, Anju was branded on the forehead with a red-hot iron chopstick. However, thanks to their guardian deity, Ksitigarbha, the burn left no scar.
Later, the sister persuaded her brother to escape alone, promising they would meet again. Though Zushio hesitated to leave his older sister, he eventually fled. After he left, Anju threw herself into a nearby swamp and took her own life. Her body was respectfully buried by the villagers. This tragic event occurred on January 16, 1082, when Anju was 16 years old and Zushio was 13.
Meanwhile, Zushio escaped to Kokubun-ji Temple in Tango Province, where he was rescued by a priest and sent to Gongen-do Hall in Shichijo Suzaku, Kyoto. At last, he succeeded in directly petitioning the Imperial Court to report the details of his family's downfall. As a result, Masauji’s crimes were pardoned, and Zushio was restored to his father's territories. Furthermore, the slanderer's lands were confiscated and given to Zushio.
Riding the wave of the Iwaki family's restoration, Zushio requested and was granted lands in Tango, Echigo, and Sado Provinces. Using these territories as his bases, Zushio first returned to Tango Province, where he rewarded the Kokubun-ji priest who had once sheltered him, and executed Sansho Tayu and his son, Saburo. In Echigo, he put Yamaoka Tayu to death. Finally, Zushio traveled across Sado Island in search of his long-lost mother. One day, he heard an old woman singing, "I love Anju, hoyareho. I love Zushio, hoyareho." Realizing this was his mother, Zushio ran up to her and threw his arms around her.
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #8 Hosen-ji Temple
Shomyo-ji Temple used to be located in today's Okamachi, Himeji, Hyogo 670-0026.
Historical Background of Shomei-ji’s Relocation and Renaming to Hosen-ji
1. Urban Restructuring under Ikeda Terumasa (1600–1604)
In 1600, following the Battle of Sekigahara, Ikeda Terumasa (1565–1613) entered Harima Province as its ruler with a domain evaluated at 520,000 koku. He immediately initiated a grand reconstruction of Himeji Castle alongside a comprehensive layout redesign of the surrounding castle town (jokamachi). As part of establishing inner and outer castle boundaries and fire-prevention districts, many existing temples near Oka-machi were ordered to relocate outside the designated castle perimeter.
2. Politically Driven "Constraint" (Enryo) and Dissociation from Former Local Clans
If Shomei-ji had been tied solely to the Kuroda family (who departed Harima for Chikuzen-Fukuoka in 1600), the temple might have either moved to Fukuoka alongside them or retained the Kuroda clan's protection while remaining in Himeji. Its relocation deep into Izumi-cho, Kasai, accompanied by a complete change of its temple name to Hosen-ji in 1604, strongly suggests a connection to the local warlord dynasties that predated Kuroda rule—such as the Akamatsu, Bessho, or Kodera clans.
Under Ikeda Terumasa’s governance, strict political surveillance was maintained over remnants of the older local gentry (goki) and institutions closely associated with former ruling houses. Retaining a temple name linked to pre-Tokugawa local rulers within or near Himeji carried significant political risk. Renaming the temple and retreating to the mountainous border of Kasai was a calculated act of survival—a necessary exercise of constraint (enryo) to avoid friction with the new regime.
3. Izumi Village as an Established Refuge: Evidence from the Kiyomizu-dera Documents
The choice of Izumi-cho was not a random flight into isolation, but a move to a territory with a well-established social and religious foundation. A deed of land donation (kishonjo) dated March 18, Tenbun 20 (1551) in the Kiyomizu-dera Documents reveals that a local lord named Yamashiro Kanbe donated two tan of rice fields in "Nishi-kotani, Izumi Village" to Kiyomizu-dera (in present-day Yashiro-cho). The document references the myoden (hereditary landholding) name "Sumiyoshi Nishi-Sasakura," linking the area to the Sasakura clan, local gentry of Sasakura Village in Taka Manor.
This historical record demonstrates two key factors that enabled the 1604 relocation:
Pre-existing Local Gentry Support: Izumi Village was within the sphere of influence of North Harima’s local samurai and gentry (goki / goshi), such as the Yamashiro and Sasakura clans. These local elites, rooted in the medieval landholding system, provided the necessary social and financial patronage to welcome and sustain the temple.
Deep Religious Connections: The area already maintained strong institutional and devotional ties with major regional temples like Kiyomizu-dera.
Thus, the relocation to Izumi Village was driven not only by the push factor of Ikeda Terumasa’s urban eviction, but also by the pull factor of an established medieval network of local patrons and sacred infrastructure.
Hosen-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Deep is the Buddha’s grace divine,
Where clear and sacred waters shine;
Purify the mind to hold
The moonlight's glow of quiet gold.
Address: 75 Izumicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2423
Phone: 0790-45-1091
Kiyomizu-dera Temple
Address: 1194 Hiraki, Kato, Hyogo 673-1402
Phone: 0795-45-0025
Wednesday, October 14, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #7 Fuko-ji Temple
According to tradition, Fuko-ji Temple was founded in 651 by the ascetic Hodo.
The heavy concentration of Hodo Sennin (Ascetic Hodo) temple-founding legends in the eastern Seto Inland Sea region—specifically Harima, Settsu, and Tanba Provinces—is widely viewed by historians as a reflection of 7th-century geopolitical dynamics and the Yamato court’s immigration policy following the turmoil on the Korean Peninsula.
Key Historical & Strategic Factors
Geopolitical Dispersion & National Security Following the fall of Baekje (660) and Goguryeo (668), as well as the Battle of Baekgang (663), waves of refugees and immigrants arrived in Japan. To prevent large concentrations of newcomers in western maritime regions (such as northern Kyushu or western San'yo) where they might form autonomous enclaves or pose security risks, the Yamato court intentionally dispersed and resettled them further east into the home provinces (Kinai) and its western approaches.
Strategic Placement of Skilled Immigrants
The refugees included educated monks, artisans, and experts in civil engineering, metallurgy, and medicine. Settled in Harima, Settsu, and Tanba—vital transit hubs rich in timber and mineral resources—these groups contributed directly to regional development, local governance, and early Buddhist patronage under court oversight.
Mythologizing the Historical Reality
While legendary accounts depict Hodo Sennin as an ascetic flying from India on a purple cloud, the figure likely serves as a composite symbol for the immigrant lineages and itinerant monks who established early Buddhist sites. Many temples linked to Hodo claim founding dates during the Hakuchi era (650–654), a timeline that closely mirrors the peak inflow of continental refugees.
Although the temple complex was lost to fire in 1306 and destroyed during the war in 1582, it was subsequently revived by Priest Kuyo.
Following a tragic fire in 1938 that consumed the main hall and neighboring structures, the current main hall was reconstructed in 1970.
Fuko-ji Temple is also #17 of the Harima Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. The temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
All holy laws gather within this sacred place,
Upon Mount Horai, filled with heavenly grace.
To stand at Fuko-ji where truth resides,
Brings joyful peace in which my soul abides.
Address: 1449 Kouchicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2421
Phone: 0790-45-0056
Tuesday, October 13, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #6 Amida-ji Temple
It is unknown when Amida-an Hermitage was founded in Bessho Village, Kasai County, Harima Province, by the Hashio family. In 1952, it was officially renamed Amida-ji Temple.
In 1160, Bessho Yorikiyo built the Kochi Fortress and established the Bessho family. It remains unclear whether the family took its name from the village or if the place was named after the family. The family is believed to be one of the legendary lineages that eventually produced the Bessho clan, who later ruled Miki Castle.
After the Warring States period (1467–1573), Miki County developed around Miki Castle as its center. The castle was built by Bessho Noriharu (?—1513), who dramatically emerged in the samurai society of Harima Province. More than ten stories exist regarding the origin of the Bessho family.
In ancient times, some Emishi people were captured, while others surrendered voluntarily because favorable conditions were offered to them. They were required to swear obedience and offer local special products—such as rare animal pelts and bird feathers—to the Japanese state. In return, they were exempted from taxes and provided with food and clothing. This arrangement must have seemed more like a contract or trade to them. These people were referred to as "subordinate Emishi" (or fushu). Some of these Emishi were relocated and assigned to various provinces throughout Japan. For example, in 725, 144 subordinate Emishi were relocated to Iyo Province, 578 to Tsukushi Province, and 15 to Izumi Province. In 738, 115 were assigned to Settsu Province. After 774, the number of relocated Emishi increased, as did the number of provinces to which they were assigned.
The Wamyo Ruijusho (Japanese Names for Things Classified and Annotated), a Japanese dictionary compiled around 938, lists place names from south to north. It records "Emishi Village" in Mino County.
Furthermore, according to an entry in the Nihon Sandai Jitsuroku dated April 11th, 866, five Emishi people from Kako and Mino Counties escaped to Omi Province.
The Nihon Sandai Jitsuroku (The True Record of Three Reigns of Japan) is an official historical text commissioned during the reign of Emperor Uda (867–931). Compiled by Fujiwara Tokihira (871–909), Sugawara Michizane (845–903), Okura Yoshiyuki (832–921), and Mimune Masahira (853–926), it covers the years from August 27, 858, to August 26, 887, spanning three imperial reigns: Seiwa, Yozei, and Koko. The compilation was completed in 901.
Taken together, these records indicate that a number of subordinate Emishi were relocated and assigned to Minagi, Mino, or Miki County.
Kikuchi Takeharu (1890–1966) argued that the places where subordinate Emishi were relocated and assigned were called Bessho. If this hypothesis holds, Noriharu, who built Miki Castle, could have been a descendant either of these subordinate Emishi or of those who had ruled them in Minagi, Mino, or Miki County.
Amida-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
Far along the Sacred Way we trace,
Unto the Stupa Mount we make our vow,
Through Amida’s solemn Oath of Grace,
The Sacred Jewel shines upon us now.
Address: 1 Besshocho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2462
Phone: 0790-44-0314
Kouchi Fort Ruin
Address: Satanicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2461
Miki Castle Ruins
Address: 5 Uenomarucho, Miki, Hyogo 673-0432
Phone: 0794-82-2000
Sunday, October 11, 2026
Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #5 Kyugaku-ji Temple
Kyugaku-ji Temple was founded by Priest Shoko in 1446 in the mountains to the north of its current location. It means that the temple was established when Chan Buddhism (specifically the Caodong school) was flourishing in the Northern part of Harima Province.
In those days, the Keta Family ruled the Keta Village, so the family might have supported the foundation of the temple.
It is unknown when the temple moved to its current location but, when Asano Naganao (1610-1672) stayed in the temple in 1645, it was already in its present place.
As the Keta Family moved to Nozato Village (today's Nozato, Himeji, Hyogo 670-0811), being subject to Kuroda Mototaka (1524-1585), the temple’s relocation could have had something to do with the move of the family.
In the Edo period (1603-1867), the Keta Family became the head of metal casters in Himeji.
Kyugaku-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:
To distant heights we make our way,
And reach Kyugaku's sacred gate,
Where Buddha's promises array,
Deep as the stream that bears its fate.
Address: 982 Kamiketacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2465
Phone: 0790-44-1405
Keta Fortress Site
Address: Shimoketacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2464
