Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #18 Kongo-ji Temple

 

     Kongo-ji Temple is said to have been founded by the priest Gimoku in 1798, although its main hall was reportedly constructed earlier, in 1774.

     In 1631, the Tokugawa Shogunate issued an edict prohibiting the establishment of new temples, effectively freezing the number of temples nationwide. Temples built before 1631 were classified as koseki (historical sites), whereas those established later were designated as shinchi (new sites). Although some temples were built covertly, they were eventually brought under strict control, particularly through regulations such as the 1692 decree. Consequently, the construction of new temples was generally permitted only under the pretext of reviving dilapidated, pre-existing ones—a process known as the "revival of old temples" (koseki fukko).

     This strict regulatory framework likely explains why nearly a generation elapsed between the construction of the main hall and the official recognition of Kongo-ji as a formal Buddhist temple.

1. Famine in Harima and the Executed Martyr (Late 1750s–1764)

Unseasonable Weather and Local Famine (from c. 1757):

     Just before the 1760s, the Harima region suffered from persistent unseasonable weather. In Taka District (present-day Taka Town and Nishiwaki City), which was under the direct administration of the Shogunate’s Ikono Magistrate Office (Ikono Daikansho), unusually cold and unstable weather severely damaged rice yields. The local populace faced near-starvation conditions, leading to widespread inability to pay land taxes (nengu) that lasted into the early 1760s.

The Martyrdom of Natsuume Taroemon (1764):

     Against this backdrop of extreme hardship, the Ikono Magistrate Office attempted to impose extraordinary tax burdens (goyokin) on the impoverished peasantry. In response, Natsuume Taroemon, the headman (shoya) of Kumanobe Village (now Yachiyo Ward, Taka Town), bypassed official channels and appealed directly (essho) to the magistrate to save the villagers’ lives. In June 1764, Taroemon was executed by burning at the stake as a public warning. However, his sacrifice succeeded in reducing the tax burden and saved the local population from mass starvation.

2. The Spreading Riots of 1768 (Uchikowashi)

The Osaka Riots (Spring–Summer 1768):

     Outraged by soaring rice prices and monopolistic distribution schemes, angry crowds in Osaka launched violent riots (uchikowashi), targeting the residences and warehouses of prominent merchants involved in the newly established rice management offices (sahaisho).

Spread to Harima:

     Word that "rioting forces down rice prices" quickly traveled west along the Saigokukaido Highway and upstream along rivers such as the Kako River into Harima Province.

     Kato District (May 9): Impoverished peasants from 20 surrounding villages descended upon the residence of the wealthy Kondo family in Ichiba Village (now Ono City), forcing them to agree to sell rice at discounted rates.

     Itto District (May 20): A similar mass mobilization occurred in Shinzaike Village (now Aboshi Ward, Himeji City). The crowd consistently demanded a ban on rice shipments to Osaka (tsudome) and forced the local release of cheap rice for the regional populace.

3. Suppression, Relief Measures, and the Shogunate's Direct Control

Military Mobilization and Suppression:

     Alarmed by the widespread unrest, the Shogunate and local domains strengthened security. Because jurisdiction in Harima was highly fragmented, neighboring domains were ordered to guard strategic points; for instance, the Himeji Domain (Sakai clan) dispatched troops to maintain order and secure land and sea routes around Hyogonotsu Port. Once the riots subsided, ringleaders were hunted down and severely punished.

Relief Efforts (Osukui):

     To prevent further uprisings and starvation, authorities implemented relief measures alongside military suppression:

Merchants and domains reluctantly approved temporary price cuts for rice.

     Domains (such as Himeji and Akashi) and Shogunate magistrates distributed free rice (semai) and relief funds (osukui-kin) to needy households. Wealthy merchants and village leaders were also ordered to make donations to fund public relief kitchens.

The Annexation of Strategic Ports (Meiwa no Jochi, 1769):

     Recognizing that relying on individual domains to manage key logistical hubs like Hyogonotsu and Nishimiya threatened the security and grain supply of the Kinai region, the Shogunate took decisive action. In 1769 (Meiwa 6), the Shogunate forcibly confiscated these strategic coastal areas from domains such as Amagasaki and brought them under direct Shogunate control (Tenryo).

     Although no surviving records explicitly link the founding of Kongo-ji Temple to these regional lines of events, it is highly plausible that this turbulent socio-economic backdrop shaped the process of its establishment and eventual official recognition.

     Viewed against the backdrop of 18th-century social turmoil, the sacred hymn (goeika) of Kongo-ji Temple takes on a profoundly poignant resonance:

True is the prayer from a heart so strong,

Here where the rock-firm faith belongs.

At Kongo-ji, the solid and grand,

Every wish finds its fulfillment at hand.

     The phrase kataki ("rock-firm") references not merely an abstract spiritual devotion, but the indestructible resilience of a populace that endured severe famines, tax oppressions, and social uprisings. Through sheer collective will, they carved out a sanctuary of hope in defiance of strict Shogunate regulations.

     Yet, the complete fulfillment of their prayers—a world free from the rigid constraints of the feudal order—would require another full century to realize. It was not until the Meiji Restoration of 1868 that the Shogunate system finally collapsed, paving the way toward a new era. In this light, the enduring stones and sacred verses of Kongo-ji Temple stand as a quiet testament to the enduring hopes of the common people, who preserved their faith and dignity through a century of waiting.

Address: 320-1 Nojocho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2202

Phone: 0790-48-3978

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #17 Josen-ji Temple

 

     In 1580, Josen-ji Temple was founded by Iwasaki Denbei on the western grounds of the Noue Fortified Residence to honor the memory of Iwasaki Genbei, who fell during the Siege of Miki Castle. Otoshi Shrine occupies the eastern end of the site. Historical records do not mention the precise connection between Genbei and Denbei.

     Since the temple was founded in 1580—immediately following the fall of Miki Castle—it is likely that an existing family chapel or small shrine within the residence was restored or re-established as Josen-ji to quickly honor the fallen.

     Given the surprisingly large area for a relatively unknown local samurai, the residence likely enclosed not only living quarters but also farmland, storehouses, and a family chapel, functioning almost as a self-contained fortified hamlet.

     Although modern land consolidation has flattened the area, the elevated grounds of Otoshi Shrine on the east and Josen-ji on the west suggest that the residence originally stood on a continuous natural ridge or raised plateau.

     Standing here today, looking over the quiet fields, one cannot help but recall Basho's famous haiku:

Summer grass—

all that remains of warriors' dreams.

     The lost fortress and the memory of the samurai have all merged into the peaceful countryside.

     Josen-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

How blest is Bairinsan, so bright with flowers,

Where joyful blessings grace the quiet hours.

To hear the Lotus Sutra day by day,

Fills all our hearts with peace along the way.

Address: 358 Nakanishicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2243

Phone: 0790-48-2267

Noue Fortified Residence Site

Address: 362 Nakanishicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2243

Otoshi Shrine

Address: 270 Biwakocho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2201

Phone: 0790-48-2209

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #16 Tamon-ji Temple

 

     In 1616, Goto Masakata, the 3rd son of Mototsugu (1560-1615), who is better known as Matabe, founded the temple to honor his father, who was killed during the Siege of Osaka.  Mototsugu had received a donation of land from Iwamoto Kanbei of Ozaki Village.  The founding coincided with the first anniversary of Mototsugu’s death (May 6th).

     A mortuary tablet dedicated to Mototsugu is enshrined in the main hall.

     Tamon-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

How sacred this place where our spirits draw near,

To the heights of Ozaki, in reverence bound.

Where the voice of the Buddha rings holy and clear,

And the echoes of mercy forever abound.

Address: 288 Osakicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2242

Phone: 0790-48-2484

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #15 Butsumyo-ji Temple

 

     According to "Kasai Saigoku 33-Temple Pilgrimage" (Kakogawa City Tourism Association): Butsumyo-ji Temple is said to have been founded in 1655 by Shunzan Nyoshu, the 8th head priest of Kozan-ji—the family temple of the Mori clan of the Choshu Domain—and that his disciple, Kenzen, succeeded him and established the temple's foundation. The temple gate is a yakuimon style gate built in 1797, featuring a gabled roof and side walls extending from both flanks. The wood of the gate's pillars bears the texture of age, reflecting the passage of time. Passing through the gate leads to the main hall.  The Kannon-do Hall stands to the west, with the Kaizan-do (Founder's Hall) situated further behind it.  Built in 1791, the main hall features an unusual layout in which the left half serves as the worship hall while the right half functions as the kuri (priest's living quarters).  A formal entrance porch (shikidai-genkan) is attached to the front.

     During the late 16th century (1570s–1580s), the Harima Province was a major battleground between the Oda forces from central Japan and the Mori forces of the Chugoku region. Many local Harima samurai sided with the Mori forces. Following their defeat in key conflicts such as the Siege of Miki and the fall of local castles, numerous defeated warriors fled west into Mori territory, a migration often referred to as the "Mori exile."

The Return of the Descendants

     By 1655, when Shunzan Nyoshu—the 8th abbot of Kozan-ji, the chief mortuary temple (bodaiji) of the Chofu-Mori domain—founded the temple alongside his disciple Kenzen, more than 2 generations had passed since the Sengoku turmoil. Kenzen was likely a descendant of those displaced Harima samurai who had taken tonsure as a Chan Buddhism monk. Under the relative stability of the Tokugawa shogunate, he was able to return to his ancestral homeland, bringing with him the lineage of the Caodong Chan tradition tied to the Mori clan.

Reconciliation and Infrastructure Projects

     This timing coincides with major regional initiatives undertaken by Sakakibara Tadatsugu (1605-1665), the lord of Himeji Domain, who initiated extensive flood control and land reclamation projects along the Kakogawa River during the mid-17th century. To ensure the success of these massive engineering feats and maintain social stability, domain authorities had a strong incentive to reconcile with former local families. Accepting returning descendants—especially those who returned as neutral, respected Buddhist monks—offered both local leadership and cultural mediation, transcending old enmities for the sake of regional development.

Architectural Reflection

     The main hall, rebuilt in 1791, strikingly reflects this historical role. By combining the main sanctuary and the living quarters (kuri) into a single structure featuring a formal entrance (shikidai-genkan), the temple was physically designed to accommodate domain officials and inspectors, functioning much like an administrative post alongside its spiritual duties.

     Butsumyo-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

All who chant the sacred Name in this earthly space,

Are embraced in the warmth of the Buddha's grace.

Not a single soul is left behind or cast away,

Guided by a vow of mercy that will never sway.

Address: 266-1 Nishiyokotacho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2335

Phone: 0790-46-0118

Kozan-ji Temple

Address: 1 Chome-2-3 Chofukawabata, Shimonoseki, Yamaguchi 752-0979

Phone: 083-245-0258

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #14 Hosen-ji Temple

 

     Hosen-ji Temple was founded in 1711 by Mangan Kyogaku, the 17th head priest of Keifuku-ji Temple in Himeji. The temple was later restored and its main hall renovated during the Bunka era (1804–1818) by the priest Tetsuzan Kaizui.

     The main hall features a traditional irimoya-style (hip-and-gable) roof, originally thatched and now protected by sheet metal. Among the notable stone monuments on the temple grounds—both believed to date from the Edo period—are one of the city's largest gorinto (five-tiered stone pagodas) and a uniquely shaped hokyoin-to (treasure-seal pagoda).

     The temple's mountain and temple name, Choyu-zan Hosen-ji, derives from a well named "Shio-no-i" (Tide Well) located to the south. Affectionately known as "Butsubutsu-san" for the continuous bubbling of water from its depths inside a small hall, the well carries a legendary origin: it is said that since ancient times, the deity Sukunabikona has been sending seawater directly to this spot from the Kumano-nada Sea.

     So writes the leaflet of Kasai City, but in reality, the site is now just a vacant lot. Curiously, the temple is still listed as an active member on the official Sotozen Navi website (https://sotozen-navi.com/detail/index_280390.html). Standing in front of the concrete block walls, I was left completely speechless.

     Hosen-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is (was?):

Undefiled through the ages, from the mountain deep,

The sacred waters flow, a timeless gift to keep.

Known through the realm as the Buddha's holy well,

Where pure, crystal streams of eternal blessings dwell.

Address: 500 Tokonabecho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2332

Keifuku-ji Temple

Address: Keifukujimae 7-1, Himeji, Hyogo 670-0027

Phone: 079-292-4807

Josen-ji Temple

Address: 358 Nakanishicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2243

Phone: 0790-48-2267

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #13 Saifuku-ji Temple

 

     It is unknown when Saifuku-ji Temple was founded in Higashi-Takamuro Village, Kasai County, Harima Province.  The village was first documented in 1603.

     The temple graveyard has itabi dated 1305.  The tempe could be as old as the itabi.

     From the late 13th century through the early 14th century, local forces known as akuto (evil bands)—whose activities destabilized the established order of shoen (manor) governance—became increasingly active in Harima Province. In Yano-no-sho Manor in western Harima (present-day Aioi City), a local lord named Terada Honen—who claimed descent from the Hata clan—was locked in a fierce conflict with the manor's proprietor, To-ji Temple in Kyoto. Honen colluded with neighboring gokenin (shogunal retainers), such as the Ebina family, to carry out acts including attacks on To-ji’s local administrators and the forcible seizure of annual tax dues. He later came to be known as the greatest akuto in the province. In 1305, the Kagen Incident broke out in Kamakura, resulting in the assassination of Hojo Tokimura (1242-1305), who held the post of rensho, or co-signer to the regent; Ebina Hidetsuna was among those who struck down Tokimura.

     In 1305, the Kagen Incident broke out.  On April 22, the residence of Hojo Sadatoki (1272-1311) was set on fire.  He was the head of the mainline family of the Hojo Clan.  Next day, his 12 vassals killed Hojo Tokimura, a leader of other minor families of the clan.  11 out of the 12 were beheaded on May 2.  On May 4, Hojo Munakata (1278-1305), Sadatoki’s brother-in-law, was killed, framed for everything.

     Sadatoki’s doubts and fears might have caused, or at least worsened, the incident.  Losing his loyal vassals and blood brother as well to evade responsibility, Sadatoki got addicted to drinking.  The autocracy by the head of the mainline Hojo Clan began rapidly breaking down.  The Kamakura Shogunate was destroyed in 1333.

     The itabi is a kind of Amida Stone Coffin Statue.

     Amida Stone Coffin Statues are unique Buddhist icons with Amitabha figures carved directly into the lids of stone coffins from the Kofun period. Most were crafted between the 12th and 16th centuries, with a particularly high concentration in Harima Province. The statues depict Amitabha in both standing and seated poses, often featuring the meditation mudra (Jo-in) held before the torso.

     It is unknown from which burial mound the itabi stone comes from, but it is almost certain the stone was from the Takamuro Stone Quarry.  The Takamuro stone is a type of hyaloclastite, and was prized for its paradoxically ideal qualities: it is soft enough for intricate carving yet strong, durable, and exceptionally fire-resistant. 

     While the choice of such high-quality stone is logical, the motive for using actual coffin lids remains a fascinating mystery:

     Convenience? Was it simply a matter of repurposing readily available, pre-cut high-quality stone?

     Ancestral Piety? Were medieval locals the descendants of those buried in the mounds, seeking to offer Buddhist prayers for the repose of their ancestors' souls?

     Dominance? Or were they the conquerors of the previous dynasty’s descendants, finding a sense of superiority in carving their new faith onto the monuments of the fallen?

     Saifuku-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

Oh, how divine Your blessed grace,

Guide us, Kannon, to Your light;

Without regard to rank or place,

You embrace all in Your sight.

Address: 222-1 Hojocho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2321

Phone: 0790-42-1203

To-ji Temple

Address: 1 Kujocho, Minami Ward, Kyoto, 601-8473

Phone: 075-691-3325

Takamuro Stone Quarry

Address: Hojocho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2321

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #12 Soju-ji Temple

 

     It is unknown when Soju-ji Temple was founded on a hill in Tamano Village, Kasai County, Harima Province.  The village was first documented in 1371, aside from the legend that Emperors Oke and Woke buried their lover, Nehime, in the field when they were still spending their fugitive lives.

     According to Nihonshoki, the Chronicles of Japan, whose editing was finished in 720, Prince Woke and his older brother, Prince Oke, sought refuge in Shijimi Village after their father, Ichinohe Oshiha, was killed by his cousin, Emperor Ohatsuse Wakatake (418-479).  Woke later became the 23rd Emperor, and Oke the 24th.

     Nehime is believed to have been buried in the Tamaoka Burial Mound.

     The temple was relocated to its present place sometime between 1504 and 1521.

     Soju-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

To the Merciful One I pray and plead,

O Kannon, hear my heart's deep need.

Guide my soul with your loving grace,

Through this life to a sacred place.

Address: 433 Tamanocho, Kasai, Hyogo 679-0107

Phone: 0790-47-0007

Tamaoka Burial Mound

Address:  Tamaokacho, Kasai, Hyogo 679-0109

Phone: 0790-43-1803

Trees in the Town

 

Virtual Kasai Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #11 Kofuku-ji Temple

 

     Ozaki-san Kofuku-ji Temple is said to have been founded in Ozaki, Taka Manor, which used to cover some part of today's Kato, Nishiwaki, and Kasai Cities, in 1325 by Priest Jitsujo of Renjo-in Temple, a sub-temple of Horai-san Fuko-ji Temple.

     Emperor Go-Daigo (1288-1339) had plans to overthrow the Kamakura shogunate and they were discovered in 1324, and his close associate Hino Suketomo (1290-1332) was exiled to Sado Island in 1325.  In other words, the shogunate was wavering when Kofuku-ji Temple was founded.

     Priest Bun'ei (?-1703) moved the temple to its present location.

     Kofuku-ji Temple’s Buddhist tanka poem is:

How sacred is this place, how sublime,

Leaving holy footprints through the four paths of time;

A joyful vow that shines so bright,

To lead us gently into the Dharma's light.

Address: 1460 Befucho, Kasai, Hyogo 679-0103

Phone: 0790-47-0133

Fuko-ji Temple

Address: 1449 Kouchicho, Kasai, Hyogo 675-2421

Phone: 0790-45-0056