Kakuta Haruo---Decoding Japan---
Sunday, August 23, 2026
Virtual Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #22 Jizo-do Hall
The exact construction date of the Jizo-do Hall in Nodani Shinmura (Nodani New Village), Kako County, Harima Province, remains unknown. The new village was originally developed by the headmen of Nodera and Kusatani Villages. The new village’s name Nodani comes from Nodera’s No and Kusatani’s tani. Between 1695 and the mid-19th century, the assessed agricultural yield (kokudaka) of the village nearly tripled; however, it remains uncertain whether actual agricultural productivity had increased or if the taxation base had simply been expanded. In 1748 and 1749, a large-scale peasant revolt broke out within the Himeji Domain, led by Izaemon, a resident of this new village.
Today, no independent Jizo-do hall can be found within the current Nodani area. Instead, one stands in the adjacent Innami area, just south of the contemporary border between Nodani and Innami. Innami Shinmura was developed at the beginning of the 18th century, nearly a century after Nodani Shinmura. Consequently, it is highly possible that the hall was originally situated at the southernmost edge of Nodani Shinmura before the development of Innami Shinmura.
Jizosama
Address: Innami, Inami, Kako District, Hyogo 675-1111
Saturday, August 22, 2026
Virtual Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #21 Gessai-ji Temple
Gessai-ji Temple is said to have begun as a small hermitage founded by the Buddhist monk Gessai.
Gessai was born in 1637 as a descendant of Ota Sukenaga (1432–1486), the renowned builder of the original Edo Castle. Gessai entered the priesthood in 1645 at the young age of nine. After undergoing rigorous training in Kyoto, where he was given the name Gessai, he furthered his spiritual practice at Zojo-ji Temple in Edo. Throughout his life, he renounced worldly desires and honors, dedicating himself entirely to nenbutsu-zanmai (total immersion in the recitation of the Buddha's name) while traveling across Japan.
After journeying through the Tohoku region and Sado Island, he arrived in Takasago on February 28th, 1707, aboard a vessel belonging to the local Shibaya merchant family. In Takasago. Gessai built a hermitage on the former site of Hatta Jibudayu's residence, a location deeply rooted in the teachings of Priest Honen (1133–1212). There, Gessai lived a life of profound simplicity, chanting the nianfo alongside the common people, so utterly absorbed in his devotion that he would often forget to eat or sleep.
Address: 930 Takasagocho Minamihonmachi, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0047
Phone: 079-442-1526
Zojo-ji Temple
Address: 4 Chome-7-35 Shibakoen, Minato City, Tokyo 105-0011
Phone: 03-3432-1431
Friday, August 21, 2026
Virtual Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #20 Jizo-do Hall
It is unknown when Jizo-do Hall in the Takasagocho area of Takasago City was founded, and virtually nothing is known about its history. Furthermore, because there are several Jizo-do halls in the Takasago area, it is not entirely certain if this specific one is the 20th station of the Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. Indeed, the pilgrimage typically employed secondary religious institutions in the county; however, this particular site is the most well-known Jizo-do hall in the area.
Address: 1-18 Takasagocho Kisomachi, Takasago, Hyogo 676-0024
Thursday, August 20, 2026
Virtual Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #19
Nothing is known about the 19th station of the Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage—not its whereabouts, its history, or even its name. When writing about the 18th station, Jizo-do Hall, I hypothesized that the 19th station could be Kuniyasu Kannon-ko (Kuniyasu Avalokitesvara Association), located on the same grounds. If that is not the case, an alternative candidate might lie somewhere between the 18th and 20th stations, with the latter situated in Takasago City. But is a linear path guaranteed? While stations #20 and #21 are located in Takasago City, station #22 seems to jump back to Inami Town before station #23 returns to the city. Ultimately, if my first guess is wrong, the 19th station could theoretically be located anywhere within the former Kako County.
Kuniyasu Kannon-ko (Kuniyasu Avalokitesvara Association)
Address: 473-2 Kuniyasu, Inami, Kako District, Hyogo 675-1114
Wednesday, August 19, 2026
Virtual Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #18 Jizo-do Hall
A Hypothesis on the 18th Station and the "Lost" 19th Station of the Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage
The 18th station of the Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage is recorded as a "Jizo-do" (Jizo hall) located in the Kuniyasu area of Inami Town. Upon visiting the specified area, there is a building labeled "Kuniyasu Kannon-ko" (an Avalokitesvara worship group hall) and a smaller structure resembling a Jizo-do nearby.
While the 19th station's name and location have long been lost to history, the presence of this "Kannon-ko" hall right next to the Jizo-do hall suggests a compelling theory: rather than being located further away toward Takasago, where the 20th station is located, the missing 19th station might actually be this very Kannon-ko hall, placed adjacent to the 18th station within the same historical plot of land.
Address: 473 Kuniyasu, Inami, Kako District, Hyogo 675-1114
Kuniyasu Kannon-ko (Kuniyasu Avalokitesvara Association)
Address: 473-2 Kuniyasu, Inami, Kako District, Hyogo 675-1114
Tuesday, August 18, 2026
Virtual Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #17 Kannon-do Hall
Based on historical geographical clues and local rezonings in Inami Town, the original location and the current status of the 17th Kannon-do Hall (originally recorded as being in Aza Okahigashi, Kako Shinmura) can be deduced through the following two major hypotheses:
Hypothesis 1: The Site of the Former Okahigashi Cemetery (Near Kuniyasu-higashi Park)
There is a record that the "Okahigashi Cemetery" once existed around what is now Kuniyasu-higashi Park in the Kuniyasu district, even though the area now belongs to a different administrative sector.
Reasoning: In historical villages of Harima Province, it was standard practice to build Kannon-do or Jizo-do Halls at the entrance or within the grounds of community cemeteries to offer prayers for the deceased and to serve as pilgrimage stops.
Conclusion: When the old Okahigashi Cemetery was later consolidated into the Kuniyasu Joint Cemetery, the original Kannon-do Hall was likely dismantled, and its sacred Avalokitesvara statue was relocated.
Hypothesis 2: Integration into the Current Bishamon-do Hall
Another strong possibility is that the Avalokitesvara statue from the 17th station is now housed inside the existing "Bishamon-do Hall" in the Kako Okahigashi area, right next to the Okahigashi Community Center (Okahigashi Kokaido).
Reasoning: As rural populations shifted and the maintenance of small, independent religious structures became difficult from the Meiji era onward, it was very common to consolidate multiple deities into a single remaining hall.
Conclusion: Although the building is publicly known today as "Bishamon-do," the Avalokitesvara statue may well be enshrined inside, placed quietly alongside the main deity of the hall.
Summary
The Kannon-do Hall itself no longer stands as an independent structure. However, by tracing the historical footprints of the old Okahigashi Cemetery near Kuniyasu-higashi Park, and by examining the interior or local lore of the current Bishamon-do Hall, the spiritual legacy of the 17th station of the Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage can likely be found preserved within these sites.
Okahigashi Bishamon-do Hall
Address: Oka, Inami, Kako District, Hyogo 675-1113
Okahigashi Community Center
Address: 389 Oka, Inami, Kako District, Hyogo 675-1113
Kuniyasuhigashi Park
Address: 316-53 Kuniyasu, Inami, Kako District, Hyogo 675-1114
Monday, August 17, 2026
The 1679 Yashima Peasant Revolt
The financial troubles of the Ikoma family, who ruled Yashima Domain, began decades earlier. In 1640, the family's stipend was drastically reduced to one-seventeenth of its original amount. When Ikoma Takakiyo (1643–1694) succeeded as head of the family in 1659, he granted one-fifth of this already diminished income to his younger brother, Toshiaki. Unable to downsize its administration effectively, the domain quickly fell into a severe financial crisis.
In 1677, while residing in Edo, Takakiyo called upon his senior retainer, Miura Iemon, and other local vassals to devise a strategy to alleviate the domain’s deficit. They proposed a plan to increase annual tax revenues through rigorous land surveys—a strategy the lord promptly approved.
Iemon and his officers carried out the land survey, effectively increasing the domain's tax assessment by 4.3 times. Shocked by this crushing burden, local farmers submitted a joint petition to the senior retainers, but received no reply. When tax collection began, domain officials enforced it so ruthlessly that many desperate farmers abandoned their fields and fled the domain.
(Around this same year, Daishoin, the father of Priest Wakoin, presented an Amitabha Buddha statue to Gassan Shrine.)
The remaining farmers gathered in secret to deliberate. Four representatives—Gon'emon of Jonai Village, Shozaemon of Koya Village, Yohei of Sarukura Village, and Juroemon of Aratokoro Village—conceived a plan to turn the tide. They sought the help of Kaneko Hisazaemon, a former samurai living as a masterless ronin in Senboku County. Secretly bringing Hisazaemon back to Yashima, they followed his guidance, drafted another petition in 1679, and decided to appeal directly to Lord Takakiyo in Edo.
A delegation led by representatives—including Yazoemon (Nakayama), Hachiroemon (Arasawa), Jin'emon (Kamikawauchi), and Sukesaburo (Shinjo)—traveled to Edo alongside Hisazaemon and Kosukegawa Jiroemon. Upon arriving, they met with Takakiyo and exposed the tyranny of Iemon and the intense suffering of the peasantry. Astonished by their account, Takakiyo ordered Iemon and his associates to commit seppuku (ritual suicide). He then appointed Hisazaemon and Jiroemon as new local retainers, charging them with relieving the peasants' plight.
Having achieved their initial goal, Hisazaemon and Jiroemon returned to Yashima Domain. They gathered the peasantry near Nenoi Fortress, announced Takakiyo’s decree, and incited the crowd to strike down Iemon’s faction. Overjoyed, the peasants launched a surprise attack on the mansions of Iemon and his allies. Taken completely off guard, Iemon's group fled the domain in panic without putting up a fight.
Soon after, Ichihashi Hikobei was appointed chief retainer in Edo and dispatched to Yashima to manage domain administration alongside Hisazaemon and Jiroemon. However, contrary to the peasants' expectations, the new leadership summoned village headmen and peasant representatives, strictly ordering them to pay the increased taxes by the original deadline. Having secured their official positions, Hisazaemon and Jiroemon had completely betrayed the villagers.
As the payment deadline approached, the peasants were left helpless. Domain officials brutally enforced the mandate, arresting and imprisoning anyone who resisted. Unable to endure the persecution, even more peasants fled, leaving as many as 326 houses abandoned throughout the domain.
After days of fruitless discussion over this dire situation, Nizaemon of Shimojinego Village stepped forward. Prepared to lay down his life, he expressed a firm resolve to appeal directly to Takakiyo again—and to the Tokugawa Shogunate if necessary. Moved by his courage, 984 peasants secretly signed a petition prepared by Nizaemon and transcribed by Priest Wakoin.
Nizaemon and twelve delegates set off for Edo. There, Nizaemon managed to present the petition directly to Lord Takakiyo and detailed the official corruption. Surprised once more, Takakiyo agreed to reduce the tax increase by half and granted Nizaemon a signed, sealed letter promising relief. Overjoyed, the delegation returned home, shared the news, and worked to recall those who had fled in order to restore the community.
However, when Hikobei and the domain officials learned of this, they dispatched Jiroemon to Edo to discredit the movement. Jiroemon falsely reported that Nizaemon and his followers were traitors conspiring with the exiled Iemon faction to assassinate Takakiyo.
Enraged by this report, Takakiyo ordered his officers to revoke the sealed letter and execute Nizaemon and his associates. On July 25, 1680, Hisazaemon led over 400 armed men in a surprise raid on Nizaemon’s home in Jinego Village.
Although Nizaemon’s house was burned down, he managed to escape. However, Priest Wakoin, along with Jintaro and Jinnosuke (sons of Shigeemon of Kamijinego Village), and Tsunehisa (father of Tarozaemon of Shimojinego Village), were captured. Another raid targeted Hitane and Momoyake villages, but the terrified residents had already fled into the hills.
Furious at this brutal crackdown, Nizaemon rallied 13 other men—including Shigeemon, Magohachi, Sankuro, Kiemon, Gorosuke, Jirouemon, Shingoro, Sato Mondo, Genbei, Sakubei, Shigegoro, and Jinzaemon—to launch another direct appeal in Edo.
In August 1680, as the 14 men made their journey to Edo, they were intercepted at Tendo in Mogami County by Jiroemon’s forces returning from the capital. After a fierce clash, Magohachi was captured, and the signed promise letter and petition were confiscated. Four others—Genbei, Kiemon, Sankuro, and Shigeemon—were also captured and sent back to Yashima.
On August 23, they were executed at Hadakamori alongside Priest Wakoin, Jintaro, Jinnosuke, and Tsunehisa. The executions were exceptionally cruel: 32-year-old Priest Wakoin was crushed to death in a stone-filled siege frame (ishizume), Jintaro and Jinnosuke were beheaded, and the remaining six were crucified.
Nizaemon escaped and attempted to organize another uprising from the mountains of Fujikura in Sando. The domain requested assistance from the neighboring Akita Domain to capture him, but failed. Ultimately, Nizaemon was betrayed by his own cousin, Kyuhachi, who revealed his hiding place for a reward. On Leap August 15, Nizaemon was hunted down and killed in the mountains of Hiyama at the age of 43.
As his reward, Kyuhachi demanded Nizaemon’s widow, Okesa. She feigned agreement, but on their wedding night, she stabbed Kyuhachi to death. She recovered her late husband’s severed head, helped Sakubei escape from prison, buried Nizaemon's head in the mountains of Makinodaira in Jinego Village, and fled to safety with her daughter.
Following the fall of the Tokugawa Shogunate in the 19th century, Aota Shrine was erected where Nizaemon’s head was buried, honoring him as a deity of agriculture.head was buried, enshrining Nizaemon as the god of agriculture.
Gassan Shrine
Address: Tsukiyama-18, Chokaimachi Kamijinego, Yurishinjo, Akita 015-0721
Phone: 0184-59-2800
Momoyake-Nenoi Fortress
Nakamura-129 Chokaimachi Momoyake, Yurihonjo, Akita 015-0516
Aota Shrine
Address: Maginotai Chokaimachi Shimojinego, Yurihonjo, Akita 015-0722
Virtual Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #16 Jizo-do Hall
Hypothesis on the Location of the 16th Jizo-do Hall (Rokken’ya Area)
Background
The exact location of the 16th Jizo-do Hall of the Kako County Bando 33 Kannon Pilgrimage remains a mystery. Historical records suggest it was located in the Rokken'ya area of Kako Shinmura (Kako New Village) in present-day Inami Town. Based on recent local field observations and historical context, two primary hypotheses can be formulated regarding its current state.
Primary Hypothesis (Candidate 1): Enshrined within Ebisu Shrine
Observation: There is a small Ebisu Shrine located by the edge of Rokken'ya Pond. The shrine consists of only a single, compact main hall with no other visible structures on the grounds. The interior of the hall cannot be inspected.
Rationale: According to official local records from Inami Town, an image of Jizo Bosatsu (Ksitigarbha) has been venerated by the lakeside of Rokkenya Pond since 1811 (the late Edo period). The 16th deity, an Avalokitesvara statue, could have been enshrined in the same hall.
Inference: Following the anti-Buddhist movement and the separation of Shinto and Buddhism during the Meiji period, it is highly possible that the Ksitigarbha statue was moved or integrated into the Ebisu Shrine for protection. It is plausible that the Ksitigarbha and Avalokitesvara statues are currently housed inside the small shrine building itself, or that the shrine now serves a dual purpose, preserving the memory of the 16th station.
Secondary Hypothesis (Candidate 2): The Site of Rokken'ya Community Center
Observation: No small chapels or stone statues reminiscent of a Jizo-do hall are currently found around the Rokkenya Community Center, which is located slightly south of the pond.
Rationale: There were local rumors of a small communal cemetery once existing near the pond, which has since disappeared.
Inference with Discretion: If a small communal burial ground indeed existed by the pond, it is likely that the graves were respectfully relocated and consolidated into a larger nearby communal cemetery in accordance with modern land-use changes or public health regulations. To support the hypothesis, the Rokken'ya Residents' Association consists of not only the Rokken'ya area in Inami Town but also the Kitayama area in the same town and Fukutome area in Kakogawa City. In such rural developments, former sacred sites or abandoned plots were frequently repurposed for community facilities. Therefore, it remains a reasonable possibility that the original Jizo-do Hall was lost during these transitions, and the Rokken'ya Community Center was subsequently constructed on its former grounds.
Ebisu Shrine
Address: 3463 Kako, Inami, Kako District, Hyogo 675-1105
Rokken'ya Community Center
Address: 3431 Kako, Inami, Kako District, Hyogo 675-1105
