Izumi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage ---In My Order---

Saigoku 33 Kannnon Pilgrimage was the first to be organized in Japan with 33 Avalokitesvara temples.

In 718, Priest Tokudo, the founder of Hase-dera Temple, died.  At the entrance of the netherworld, he met the great king of the Buddhist Hades.  The king had a kind of triage crisis and complained that he had to sort too many people into the hell.  “Japan has 33 Avalokitesvara precincts.  People there can reduce their penalty points by making a pilgrimage to the precincts.”  Thus he gave Tokudo a written pledge and 33 precious seals, and sent him back to the world.  Tokudo chose 33 precincts and advised people to visit them.  People, however, didn’t believed it, and the pilgrimage didn’t become popular.  He stored the seals up in a stone case in Nakayama-dera Temple.  He died at the age of 80, and the pilgrimage got forgotten.

One day, Retired Emperor Kazan (968-1008) was shutting himself up in Mt. Nachi, Kishu Province, after his abdication in 986.  The god of Kumano appeared in his dream, and advised him to revive the pilgrimage.  The retired emperor found the 33 seals in Nakayama-dera Temple, asked Priest Shoku (910-1007) in Enkyo-ji Temple to cooperate.  The priest recommended Priest Butsugen in Eifuku-ji Temple instead.  With Butsugen’s guide, the retired emperor made the pilgrimage to the 33 precincts, and even composed a tanka poem for each temple, which were the start of go-eika, Japanese tanka poem chants for pilgrims.

Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage became very popular, and since then many copy 33 Kannon pilgrimages have been organized in various regions, provinces, counties, and cities.

In Izumi Province, which now belongs to Osaka Prefecture, the reduced-size copy of Kannon Pilgrimage was organized with another set of 33 temples by the end of the 17th century.

My wife asked me to take her to Kannon-no-sato in Kohoku, in the northern part of Shiga Prefecture.  I found the Avalokitesvara statue in Doganji Kannondo in Kogen-ji Temple very impressive.  What impressed me most?

In 736, smallpox broke out.  Emperor Shomu  (701-756) ordered Priest Taicho (682-767) to exorcize the illness.  The priest carved statue of Ekadasamukha, who has 11 faces, and established Kogen-ji Temple.  In 790, Saicho (767-822), the founder of Tendai Sect of Buddhism in Japan, erected full-scale temple buildings.  In 1570, the temple was burnt down in the battle between the Asai and Oda Clans.  Priest Koen and the villagers buried the statue under the ground to save it from flames and robbery.  Later, Koen changed his sect to True Pure Land Buddhism and converted Kogen-ji Temple to Kogen-ji Temple, in other Chinese-character notation with the same pronunciation.  In the late 16th century, Japan was where inferiors overpowered superiors.  That was not only among samurais.  But those engaged in commerce and industry were challenging the conservative privileged classes.  In Omi Province, the former usually believed in True Pure Land Buddhism, while the latter in Tendai Sect.  True Pure Land Buddhism forbade member temples to enshrine other Buddhist images than that of Amitabha.  That might have been where the name Doganji, which obviously sounds like a temple name, came from.  In 1828, Ika County 33 Kannon Pilgrimage was organized, and Kannondo became its member.  By the time, its go-eika, temple's tanka poem chant, had been composed:

"The sea of illusion is deep for everyone.

"A boat of teachings

"Will ferry them to the shore temple.”

Some go-eika have their temple names in them.  So, it was by the time that the area came to be called Doganji (literally Ferry Shore Temple).

Even in 1897, it was just Kannondo (Avalokitesvara shrine) that had the title to the Ekadasamukha statue.  In 1942 during the World War II, it got to belong to Kogen-ji Temple under the Religious Organizations Act.  Whatever political or legal status the statue has had, it is villagers that have maintained the statue for centuries.

Those in mind, I started going on Izumi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.

#7 Kaigan-ji Temple

I first visited #7 Kaigan-ji Temple in Sakai.  The temple stood on the top of a small hill, which commanded a rather good view over the half agricultural half residential area.

There used to be 3 temples in Hirai Village at the beginning of the Edo Period, Kaigan-ji, Kannon-ji, and Anraku-ji Temples.  In the late 17th century, Kannon-ji Temple became out of business, the Kannon statue was taken over by Kaigan-ji Temple, which then became a member temple of Izumi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.  In 1868, Anraku-ji Temple had no priest to live in it, the priest of Kaigan-ji Temple moved to Anraku-ji Temple, and called it Kaigan-ji Temple.

Why did he move?  The good view from the temple can be an answer.

#6 Raiko-ji Temple

I drove out of Kaigan-ji Temple, which is #7 among 33 Kannon Temples in Izumi Kannon Pilgrimage, to visit Raiko-ji Temple, which is #6, in counter-numeric order.  It is believed that you can get good luck if you visit all the 33 Kannon Temples numerically.  Unluckily, the streets around the temple were so narrow and so much winding and crooked that I almost lost my way.  Here is my advice, if you go to the temple by car, you should drive out of Prefectural Route 208 at the Obadera Crossing, and approach the temple along the pond there.

Obadera?  That sounds like a temple name.  Yes, Gyoki (668-749) is said to have founded Oba-dera Temple around here.  The temple used to be a family temple of the Oba Family, who had immigrated from continental Asia.  Obadera Village ruled the surrounding 14 villages until the beginning of the 18th century: Obadera, Taiheiji, Ojiro, Toga, Hachimine, and more.  The main temple of the village was called Sofuku-ji Temple in Obadera Village at the time and it was #6 temple of Izumi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.  In 1843, Sofuku-ji, Raiko-ji, and Seiren-ji Temples were registered in the area.  Today, Sofuku-ji and Raiko-ji Temples are still active.  It is, however, unknown why Raiko-ji Temple became #6 temple of Izumi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage instead of Sofuku-ji Temple, which is also located just between #5 and #7. 

#5 Hoko-ji Temple

Hoko-ji Temple is located in the southernmost part of Sakai City, closest to Izumi City, and has the youngest number, #5, among 33 Kannon Temples in Izumi Kannon Pilgrimage, which starts from Sefuku-ji Temple in Izumi City.

A temple was opened here in the second half of the 8th century by En Ozunu (?634-?701).  In the first half of the 8th century, Gyoki (668-449) recognized the  gleaming and brightening light of Avalokitesvara in the temple, enshrined a Avalokitesvara statue there, and named it Hoko-ji Temple (namely Emitting Light Temple).

On Its days, Hoko-ji Temple was one of the 3 greatest temples in Kinai Region along with Jimpo-ji and Yachu-ji Temples.  But in the late 16th century, it was burnt down in a war.

In 1652, Priest Chogen from Jimpo-ji Temple rebuilt the temple in a small scale.  In 1872, it sold out its estate and buildings other than the main building and a couple of mud-walled storehouses.  In 1914, the temple merged with Tamon-ji Temple nearby, and came to enshrine a Vaishuravana statue too.

I drove up one of the crooked steep hills around the temple, straying from the path.  It was at the top of the hill, with some other small shrines, but without any people.  The sign told me to take a piece of red-sealed paper for 300 yen to prove my visit of the temple.

#8 Kannon-in Temple

I left Iwamuro Kannon-in Temple, and drove my last one-forth counterclockwise lap of the day to Hokke-ji Temple, #9 among 33 Kannon Temples in Izumi Kannon Pilgrimage.

#9 Hokke-ji Temple

Even back in the town, the streets about the temple were narrow, winding, and crooked.  The drive navigation system just took me to the opposite side of the creek, or of the ditch, to Hokke-ji Temple.  I still had to drive the last extra mile to get in front of the temple.

The Kannon building was under renovation.

Mousu-ji Temple was founded by Gyoki (668-749) in the Mousu Manor in the first half of the 8th century.  The temple used to belong to Shingon Buddhism, but was converted to the School of Nichiren at the turn of the 18th century by Priest Nitto, who also changed the temple name.  We have had several Nittos in the history but his grave in the temple shows that he was the one who died on August 7, 1712.  August 7….  My birthday.

Near Hokke-ji Temple, we have Shonen-ji Temple, which belongs to the Otani Sect of True Pure Land Buddhism.  The Kannon Shrine in Hokke-ji Temple used to belong to Shonen-ji Temple when Izumi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage was organized, but is said to have been moved.   Why?  And when?  I don’t know.  Usually, True Pure Land Buddhism enshrines only Amitabha, but I wonder if anybody minded that in the 18th century.  In confusion, I made it a day.

#10 Hase-dera Temple

Hase-dera Temple was in the old part of Sakai.  There ran streets in plaid.  One day, I drove from street to street, turning in a right angle.  The temple was at the corner of Shukuin Dori, one of the widest streets in Sakai, and a one-way street.

You know Hase-dera Temple in Nara, don’t you?  It's very famous.  It was established in 727.  Emperor Shomu (701-756) is known for building a Kokubun-ji Temple in each province.  He had such strong faith in Buddhism that he built New Hase-dera Temples in provinces too.  The Hase-dera Temple in Sakai is said to have been built in 753 as the first one.  The temple used to have a big main building and 6 branch temples in the estate.  In the Medieval days, however, Sakai became an international port, and the temple had to give way to the commercial use of the land.  During World War II in 1945, the bombing of Osaka burnt down the temple buildings.  The evacuation beforehand saved the deity from flames.  Today, a small ferroconcrete building stands as a relic of the golden age, with the statue of Ekadasamukha, who has 11 faces, in it as the token of the prosperity.

#11 Nenbutsu-ji Temple

Another day, I drove south out of the old part of Sakai to Nenbutsu-ji Temple, the last one in Sakai among 33 Kannon Temples in Izumi Kannon Pilgrimage.

Chinooka Tumulus is located at the south-west corner of the Mozu Cluster of Ancient Tumuli.  the temple used to be on the top of the burial mound.  The temple was founded by Priestess Youn, who died on June 6, 1718, as a shrine temple of Iwatsuta Shrine.  In 1980, the land development of Sakai City caused the temple to move to the present place. 

After Nenbutsu-ji Temple, the pilgrimage will go back into Izumi City, and further south.

#12 Kannon-ji Temple

Izumi City has 2 Kannon-ji Temples: one in Uedai-cho and the other in Kannonji-cho.  #12 temple of Izumi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage is the one in Uedai-cho.  Another day, I drove into Uedai-cho.  The temple was near a large street, but the streets around the temple was so narrow and crooked that I had to park my car along the large street and walk to the temple.  I was surprised to find a car parked in front of the temple building.  How did it reach there?  Mysterious.

The temple had only a cheap building and some stone monuments and others.

In the first half of the 8th century, Shinoda-ji Temple was founded by a priest from Enmei-ji Temple in today’s Kawachinagano.  It has been burnt down for 3 times, including the burning by Oda Nobunaga (1534-1582) on his way to the burning of Sefuku-ji Temple in 1581.

The main deity of the temple, the statue of Ekadasamukha, who has 11 faces, is said to have carved in the 8th century, with the head fixed during the Edo Period.

#13 Ryuun-ji Temple

Another day, I drove south along Route 26, and turned right to the east at the Ikegami-Sone Site Intersection.  I drove through the underpass across JR Hanwa Line just near Shinodayama Station.  After a while, I turned right again into narrow crooked streets, as often the case in visiting the Izumi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage temples, of the Hakata township.  The car navigation system led me in front of Saiko-ji Temple.  Why?  I walked around to find Shosen-ji and Joko-ji Temples.  Why not Ryuun-ji Temple?  Finally, I had a chance to ask 2 old ladies chatting in the hot sun, and found Ryuun-ji Temple at last, which was just opposite Hakata Shrine.

When Retired Emperor Shirakawa visited Kumano at the end of the 11th century, he had to stay in Marugasa Shrine because of sickness.  He prayed for the healing, and dreamt a dragon flying to him.  As his illness was healed, he built Ryuun(Dragon Cloud)-ji Temple there.  After the Gods and Buddhas Separation Order in 1868, villagers saved the statue of Cintamanicakra. Ryuun-ji Temple has had no priest, and villagers has maintained the statue in rotation in groups of 6.

#4 Shinko-ji Temple

Another day, I had a business near Komyoike Station, and, as I had some time left, I visited 3 temples of Izumi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage: #4 Shinko-ji, #3 Kokubun-ji, and #2 Butsunami-ji Temples in a short reverse numeric order.  I first drove to Shinko-ji Temple from the Komyoike Station area.  The temple was located in a rather flat area and quite near from the main road.  Very easy one for visiting ancient Kannon temples.

Anyo-ji Temple was founded by Priest Hokai in Murodo Village in 771.  He carved 2 Kannon statues out of a wood, and kept one for the temple and presented the other to Sefuku-ji Temple.  In the 17th century, there used to be 4 temples in the village: Anyo-ji, Shinko-ji, Gokuraku-ji, and Seon-ji Temples.  At the time, Anyo-ji Temple used to be #4 temple of Izumi 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.  It became difficult for the villagers to support 4 temples, and Shinko-ji Temple eventually annexed the other 3 temples, and became #4 temple of the pilgrimage.

Shinko-ji Temple’s main deity has been Bhaisajyaguru, and the main deity of Anyo-ji Temple, Ekadasamukha, who has 11 faces, was moved to Shinko-ji Temple, where it has been sealed in for centuries.  In 1986 at last, a Kannon temple was reconstructed in the precincts of Shinko-ji Temple.

Legend has it that Fujiwara Fuhito (659-720) visited Makio-ji Temple as an imperial messenger, and passed through Murodo Village.  People were planting rice, and he found a gleaming and brightening girl.  He brought her back to the capital, and she later became Empress Komyo (701-760), literally Empress Bright Light.  Now, I see why Komyoike Station is called Komyoike (Komyo Pond).

#3 Kokubun-ji Temple

After #4 Shinko-ji Temple, I drove to the hillside.  #5 Kokubun-ji Temple was at the foot of Kokubu Pass.  Not so bad.  Although I had to drive through a rather narrow street, the temple still had a car park.

There used to be Anraku-ji Temple here.  In 741, Emperor Shomu (701-756) built Provincial Temples in each province.  On May 3rd, 839, Izumi Province got independent from Kawachi Province, and Anraku-ji Temple was transformed into a Kokubun-ji Temple in the province.

The present Kannon deity, the statue of Sahasrabhuja, who has 1,000 arms, was carved out of a wood in the Heian Period.

Legend has it that it was not in Murodo Village but in this area that Fujiwara Fuhito (659-720) found a divine girl.  He brought her back to the capital, and she later became a wife of Emperor Shomu, or Empress Komyo (701-760).

#2 Butsunami-ji Temple

After #3 Kokubun-ji Temple, I drove into hills, which are commonly called Yokoyama, namely Side Hills.  Just a couple of decades ago, Yokoyama used to be such an isolated and separated area that it has its prefectural high school, Yokoyama Branch of Otori High School, which has been closed though.  The trail to the temple was so narrow that I doubted if it was a-car

wide.  It was so crooked that I wandered how I could turn at corners without falling into a creek.  At the foot of the steps toward the temple gate, there was no parking lot.  I just hoped there would come no car driving by.

I climbed up the stairs.  At the end of them, there stood a small temple gate.  Inside the gate, there was a stone monument talking about the history of the gate.

In 1699, Soken-ji Temple in Shichido, Sakai, was rebuilt.  A temple gate was offered to Butsunami-ji Temple.  It is unknown whether the temple gate presented was secondhand or new.

A fairly new Avalokitesvara statue was standing diagonally opposite of the main building.  It cannot be the one that has been worshiped for generations.  Besides the statue, there stood a shed locked with a tiny padlock.  Could it be a Kannon shrine?

Soga Umako (?-626) presented 2 Buddhist images to Ikebe Ataihita, a descendant of immigrants from China, who built a temple near his house and lined up them in it.  In 553, Ataihita found a fragrant wood in the sea of Izumi Province, and presented it to Emperor Kinmei (?-571), who ordered to carve 2 Buddhist images out of it.  In 584, Kudara presented 2 Buddhist images to Emperor Bidatsu.  Umako ordered to search for a Buddhist ascetic.  Ataihita found Eben, who came from Koguryo.  Ataihita might have been destined for 2 Buddhist images, but whether what he was presented had something to do with the other twos in unknown.  Later, Atahiea’s son, Tokuna, lined up Maitreya and Avalokitesvara statues.  So, the temple came to be called Butsunami, namely Buddha Line-Up.

Oh, don’t you believe that?  Mmm, then here comes another.  In Medieval Japan, some priests and followers of the Pure Land Sects of Buddhism had -ami at the end of their names. In 1605, the map of Izumi Province was published.  The notation of the village was Butsu-ami not Butsunami.  Has Butsu-ami come to be mispronounced Butsunami?  Believe it or not.

The main building of the temple was closed.  As if so as not to reveal the secret of the name, Butsunami.

To Be Continued