Osaka 33 Kannon Pilgrimage in My Order (9)

 The #16 Deity of the Osaka 33 Kannon Pilgrimage

   The #16 deity of the Osaka 33 Kannon Pilgrimage has experienced a checkered history.

     An image of Sakra, who is the ruler of the Trayastrimsa Heaven in Buddhist cosmology, was carved in the 11th century.  It is unknown when Washo-in Temple was founded, but it was after the sculpture of the image, which was brought to the temple after its foundation and was remade into an Avalokitesvara image.　

     The image is enshrined in the main hall of Joenji Temple today.  It is believed that it was originally a colored image, but no coloring remains, and its grains are exposed.  Except for the tip of the right wrist, the tip of the left arm, the belongings, and the tip of both ankles, everything is carved from a single tree.  There is no inner cavity.  A high topknot is tied on the head, and a crown base is also carved out.  A streak of hair crosses over each ear. The shape of the earlobe is unknown because the tips of the ear are missing.   Its eyes are also carved out.  The presence or absence of nostrils is also unknown due to wear.  Its uniform is notable for its wearing of armor with a stand-up collar.  The armor is expressed with a pattern of one vertical line and three horizontal lines passing through its chest.  Over the armor, it wears a kimono diagonally from the left shoulder.  The sleeves hang down, representing another kimono worn under the armor.  In addition, the lower half of the body is worn with another kimono.  Currently, it has nothing in its right hand.  Its left hand bends from the tip of its arm to pick up a water vase, which was added when it was transformed into Avalokitesvara.  It wears no shoes on its feet today.

     It is a single piece of wood with no inner mound, and structurally shows an old style. Although it is worn due to decay, it is characterized by a dynamic expression using the wave pattern that remains on the outer part of both sleeves. The face part is worn, but shows a gentle appearance.

     Due to an old-fashioned style in the expression of the wave style clothing, the structure without inner walls, the shallow carving with its gentle face, the image is presumed to have been carved in the 11th century.

     It is currently enshrined as a statue of Avalokitesvara, but since it is a statue in armor, it could have been originally created as a statue of either Sakra or Brahma.  Brahma statues are sometimes depicted wearing armor like the statues of Toshodai-ji Temple, but since most of them are wearing a robe, there is a high possibility that this standing statue is Sakra.

     Sculptures in the 11th century are rare in Osaka City.

     The Sakra statue was not originally handed down to Joen-ji Temple, but was deity of Wako-in Temple, which was the original #16 temple of the Osaka 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.  The statue was known as Fujinodana Kannon (near 6-chome Tanimachi), which was mentioned in "Setsuyo Gundan" and "Settsu Meisho Zue Taisei".  Washo-in Temple was destroyed by fire in 1863 and moved to Shinmachi, Nishi Ward.  Presumably, the temple was abolished after the Meiji Restoration in 1868.  The statue moved to Hoshaku-an Temple in Mino City and then returned to Osaka in recent years.

     Having visited the original location of Washo-in Temple before, I visited Joko-ji Temple this time.

     As they detected abnormal noises, my train travel to Tsukamoto Station along JR Tokai Line became somewhat chaotic and my arrival was delayed.  Yet, its station square was very quiet.  It was one of many deserted station roads in Japan today with a deserted shopping street.

     I crossed a couple of traffic signals to find a kindergarten filled with the cheers of children.  It is often the case that a temple has an affiliated kindergarten.  I walked around it and found a Buddhist-temple-like building deep in the schoolyard with children running in front of it.  On the other side of the kindergarten, I found its gate.  In front of the gate, there stood a stone monument with the name of Josei-ji.  I made ding-dong only to be refused to worship in the temple.

     Later, I was walking through Shinmachi to find the trace of the relocated Washo-in Temple.  It was a waste of time.  The expulsion of Buddhism after the Meiji Restoration and the urbanization after World War II wiped out signs of things premodern.  Samuhara Shrine was in the nearby area, but it was founded in 1950 and was moved to Itachibori in 1961.  It’s quite modern.  I found a Presbyterian church in Shinmachi itself.  It was founded in 1879.  It’s quite modern, too.

     As religious institutions have tended to concentrate in an area, Washo-in Temple might have moved in this area.

     Anyway, I walked from Honmachi Station to Ashiharabashi Station.  It means I walked between the Osaka 33 Kannon Pilgrimage #31 and #32.  The location could have been convenient for their pilgrims, too.

     As the #16 deity of the Osaka 33 Kannon Pilgrimage wandered around Osaka, so did I without finding any fruit.

Washo-in Temple

Address: 6 Chome-6-11 Tanimachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka, 540-0012

Hoshaku-bo Temple

Address: 1-19 Minokoen, Mino, Osaka, 562-0002

Joen-ji Temple

Address: 3 Chome-10-4 Shinkitano, Yodogawa Ward, Osaka, 532-0025

Phone: 06-6304-0840

Samuhara Shrine

Address: 2 Chome-5-26 Itachibori, Nishi Ward, Osaka, 550-0012

Phone: 06-6538-2251

Osakanishi Church

Address: 3 Chome−1−12 Shinmachi, Nishi Ward, Osaka

Phone: 06-6531-6680